• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

petcocks leaking.what options exist

MotoXotica

MotoXotica

Husqvarna
AA Class
i have about a half dozen petcocks that leak.they are from Huskys that are around 1980 model year or so.are these rebuildable/repairable or is there another petcock that can be souced to replace them?please advise.dan
 
Not sure if you wanting to stick with vintage or not, but most petcocks these days have the same bolt pattern. I just swapped mine on my oversized IMS for a new TTR125 petcock with reserve.
 
Post a picture. Ususally all you do is take the two screws out and the plate and replace the o-ring. If not I really like these.

http://www.clarkemfg.com/accessories-aftermarket-petcock-c-16_35.html

1377ns.jpg
 
I just rebuilt mine, but it's not a stock Husky pet-cock; rather, it came with the Clarke tank. Still, they're all basically the same. Take it apart, and there should be a thick gasket material stuff inside against which the valve rides on under tension from the spring steel tension washers. That gasket material should have 4 holes punched in it to line up for "gas on, reserve, and gas off" positions. I used a really thick piece of cork gasket material cut to the inner diameter of the housing, and used a suitable hole punch to punch the holes. It fits really tight and doesn't leak a drop. I've done this a zillion times it seems....petcocks don't wear out, just the sealing surfaces/materials inside.
 
The plastic tank models (84 on) can have some drama with the sealing washer fraying...its some kind of teflon type material.
 
$60 is for two, I buy them in L+R pairs for my Pentons which have two so the handle is on the correct side. Singles are only $30.
 
The Clarke tap is a proper ball-valve type and screws to std Husky plastic tanks. @ 16US$ its a deal they work beautifully particularly with a gloved hand. It flows fuel at rate sufficient to feed a hellbent 500 2T, which the original disc-valve Husky petcocks do not accomplish. The feed holes in the original taps are puny and will suffice for a 250, 4T, maybe a 430, but if you are going to run a big bore at sustained WOT, it will starve, surge, backfire and ultimately blow.
Tap for your requirement and not sentiment, use it, don't use it.
 
Crashaholic said:
For you guys who want OEM similar stuff heres a source for petcocks. They also have a rebuild kit in either cork or rubber.

http://bingcarburetor.com/petcocks.html

View attachment 27404

A. About $65

View attachment 27405

Cork about $9 and rubber about $15
Click to expand...

I purchased three of these rebuild kits and wanted to let those who may consider buying them that the new valve seal, either the cork or rubber, is quite a bit thicker and getting the valves back together is a real chore. I'm going to have to make a jig that will allow me to compress the valve assembly in a vise in order to get the retaining clip installed. I've got about ten valves and would like to keep them to have OEM valves on the bikes I plan to rebuild.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top