Question about clutch Husqvarna TE 250

[Kameli]

I was going to ask if it's normal that the clutch doesn't work after changing your oil? I just did a oil filter and oil change and after I started the bike the clutch wouldn't work but after driving for about 5-10 minutes it started to work normally again and i'm wondering if I should be worried cause it hasn't happened to me before

 

[268fords]

What kind of oil did you use?

 

[Kameli]

What kind of oil did you use?

liqui moly racing synth 10w-60

 

[268fords]

How about your master cylinder? Any leaks or is the fluid low? Have you always used the 10W-60? Just wondering because after switching over to 5W-40, my clutch smoothed out so much.

 

[Kameli]

How about your master cylinder? Any leaks or is the fluid low? Have you always used the 10W-60? Just wondering because after switching over to 5W-40, my clutch smoothed out so much.

No leaks and the fluid is fine, not sure what could've caused it but I still have some issues when the engine is cold the clutch wont really work at all. I guess i'll try 5w-40 next time I change oil if that makes it better

 

[268fords]

Mobil 1 5w-40 for European cars in the 1 gallon jug is about $23-25 instead of $10-15 a quart. Is this the first oil change you've done on the bike?

 

[Kameli]

Mobil 1 5w-40 for European cars in the 1 gallon jug is about $23-25 instead of $10-15 a quart. Is this the first oil change you've done on the bike?

The 2nd oil change that i've done myself, last time the oil was changed in the shop when I had to get the piston and oil pump replaced

 

[Dirtdame]

Strange name "Liqui Moly" implies that there is some sort of slippery agent in it to help reduce friction and wear. Sometimes these additives in the oil (especially full synthetic formula) make the clutch slip in unit construction sump engines. Just sayin'....

 

[Trenchcoat85]

I was going to ask if it's normal that the clutch doesn't work after changing your oil? I just did a oil filter and oil change and after I started the bike the clutch wouldn't work but after driving for about 5-10 minutes it started to work normally again and i'm wondering if I should be worried cause it hasn't happened to me before

well, first of all: "....the clutch wouldn't work" is a little ambiguous. Some people use that description for a slipping clutch (that won't fully engage) and others say that when a clutch won't disengage or drags. I'm guessing you meant it was slipping or not fully engaged.

No, it's not normal for a clutch to do either one after an oil change. Sometimes with a more viscous oil the clutch will slip for a bit AND will drag too- but your 5w isn't that thick. DD's comment about the additive package in your oil might be a factor. Friction reducers are generally a no-no in a wet clutch.

Sometimes clutch plates will stick together when the clutch has not been used for a while. Again, I'm guessing your concern was slipping, not sticking- so this may have not been your issue

The Mobil 1 0w-40 (yes, ZERO-40) has gained popularity here; and I'm on board with it too. There are a few versions (0w-20, 0w-30) but we're talking the Euro car stuff ...something about the additives IIRC- do a search. Like 286 said, you can get it here, at Wally World (if you're in the US) for about $25. Bonus- it's actually 5qts.

Also- what happened to your bike that caused you to replace the piston and oil pump? How old is your bike? Actually I'm assuming it's a '14 or earlier 4 stroke (w/ an oil pump) and not a newer 2 stroke; 'specially since we're in the Italian 4 stroke section. But it never hurts to get more details when you get a head-scratcher like this.

Please let us know- and good luck.

[edit: I see from your first post (pic thread) that you're from Finland. "Wally World" is Walmart, and hasn't invaded continental Europe yet- I think (how about Tesco maybe?). If the are any more idiomatic Americanisms, LMK and I'll give you a definition or explanation. Hey, a couple of people over hear are looking for white plastics like you have on your tank- maybe you should export some!]

 

[Alberto]

if you are in Europe and cannot find Mobile 1 for european cars, try Motul 300V offroad 5w40 or 10w40, they are specially formulated for wet clutches. Some oils, are just designed to lubricate the engine and not for a motorcycle clutch slippery properties and this can be your case. Change the oil for one designed for wet clutches and make the test yourself. I think its the easier test you can make.

 

[Kameli]

well, first of all: "....the clutch wouldn't work" is a little ambiguous. Some people use that description for a slipping clutch (that won't fully engage) and others say that when a clutch won't disengage or drags. I'm guessing you meant it was slipping or not fully engaged.

No, it's not normal for a clutch to do either one after an oil change. Sometimes with a more viscous oil the clutch will slip for a bit AND will drag too- but your 5w isn't that thick. DD's comment about the additive package in your oil might be a factor. Friction reducers are generally a no-no in a wet clutch.

Sometimes clutch plates will stick together when the clutch has not been used for a while. Again, I'm guessing your concern was slipping, not sticking- so this may have not been your issue

The Mobil 1 0w-40 (yes, ZERO-40) has gained popularity here; and I'm on board with it too. There are a few versions (0w-20, 0w-30) but we're talking the Euro car stuff ...something about the additives IIRC- do a search. Like 286 said, you can get it here, at Wally World (if you're in the US) for about $25. Bonus- it's actually 5qts.

Also- what happened to your bike that caused you to replace the piston and oil pump? How old is your bike? Actually I'm assuming it's a '14 or earlier 4 stroke (w/ an oil pump) and not a newer 2 stroke; 'specially since we're in the Italian 4 stroke section. But it never hurts to get more details when you get a head-scratcher like this.

Please let us know- and good luck.

[edit: I see from your first post (pic thread) that you're from Finland. "Wally World" is Walmart, and hasn't invaded continental Europe yet- I think (how about Tesco maybe?). If the are any more idiomatic Americanisms, LMK and I'll give you a definition or explanation. Hey, a couple of people over hear are looking for white plastics like you have on your tank- maybe you should export some!]

Thanks for the reply, and I meant that when I pull the clutch and change to 1st gear the bike would die. The clutch drags a bit now when the bike is cold but other than that it's pretty good now. And the reason I had to replace the piston and oil pump was because the head gasket was blown so the coolant and oil got mixed which ruined a bearing and it damaged the engine. The bike is a 2005 TE 250. And I saw the 0w-40 oil in the store earlier so I might try that next time I need to change oil

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Your english is fantastic (...sorta american; and no huge british accent either!)- I'm guessing you must've grown up texting, FB/Instagram/MySpacing, and Tweeting. Most people here (US) don't have those language skills (hell, me included).

So your clutch is (or was I guess) dragging, and stalls when you drop it in gear. If you hadn't installed a new clutch pack after the rebuild, oil and cold temps could be a factor. The Magura clutch master cylinder is not highly regarded for longevity. And neither master cyl. (Mag & Brembo) has an excess amount of spare travel either... so any air is gonna cause a dragging problem too.

sounds like your problem is over maybe?

hey, add your bike info (year etc) and location to your avatar maybe.

good luck.