• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Question about radiator Y vs T

OlderHuskyRider

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I am assuming several things about this subject, please correct any incorrect assumptions I have made:

I assume that the "T" in the pic below is what people are replacing, because the majority of fluid (60%) may be going to the left-side radiator throught the Straight portion of the "T", leaving the other 40% to go to the right-side radiator. The "Y" is supposed to make it 50/50.

If 60% of the fluid is going to the left radiator with the "T" stock, wouldn't the crossover/equalization tube shunt the overage to the right-side radiator?

I am assuming that no one really cares how much fluid is going to either side if the temp is below boiling.

If my fluid is hot-to-boiling, wouldn't I want most of the fluid going to the right-side radiator, with the fan, for more heat exchange?

Why don't I just reverse the "T" that is stock, and make the straight part of it go to the right-side radiator, then 60% will go to where the fan is.

HuskyRadiators.jpg
 
rancher1;142441 said:
The T is prone to bursting/melting especially if you are boiling.

So why replace it with a "Y"?

Also, for those replacing their 1.4 rad cap with a 1.8, it would really be at risk for bursting, correct?

People have said that the crossover tube is at risk for bursting. Does then entire radiator hose system need to be replaced?
 
I believe #18 of the above diagram is also prone to rupture. The PO of my 09 510 said his burst on a ride but it was part of a recall and replaced under warranty. I plan to replace the entire hose system before the summer
 
OlderHuskyRider;142443 said:
So why replace it with a "Y"?

Also, for those replacing their 1.4 rad cap with a 1.8, it would really be at risk for bursting, correct?

People have said that the crossover tube is at risk for bursting. Does then entire radiator hose system need to be replaced?
Y is made of aluminum. T is plastic

Fuel injection hose is recommened for the crossover as it's a smaller diameter hose. I think the rest are gtg and my dealer has had no issues with them.
 
Started making these in 1984 when the Husky's came with a plastic Y and the would melt, crack and distort from heat.
I supplied, sold them Husky Products back then.

When ATK made the liquid cooled 2 strokes they bought them from me as an OEM part back in 1993-4 can't remember.

1, alum Y won't melt. 2 alum Y won't crack or get brittle over time. 3.Y splits flow so both Rad get a more equal amount of coolant thru them. 4. Peace of mind knowing the alum Y will never let you down.

The fan only comes on when your going to slow and don't have enough air flow thru the Rad's. So by changing flow to other side does nothing. The fan is only a fail-safe and should not even be relied on to keep the motor cool.

Now in my thinking a product that has been sold and produced for over 27 years must have some creditability behind it plus the fact still made here in USA, from US materials. And never outsourced.

Later George
 
The new hi-flow impeller and housing (#1&3 in pic) seems like a good addition to the upgrades/remedies. It looks like the hi-flo comes stock on the new 630's.
 
On my 2010, the “T” has been modified to help equal the flow. It’s now what I would call a Hybrid “T”. :excuseme:
 
Just buy the Uptite "Y" from George. It works great and looks good to boot. When your frens come over and you have the tank off and they ask what is that? You just say, "It's from Uptite, baby".
 
I fabbed an aluminum tee. Crap, the way the electrical harness is packed in there I wasn't sure I had room for Uptite's Y. Anyhow, installed silicone hoses and engine ice to boot.
 
Engine ice, High flow impeller, uptite Y, CV4 silicone hoses and my bike runs niceeeee and cool. Only time the fan comes on is if i let it idle for a longg time.
 
The aluminium Y and reinforced crossover were peace of mind fitments for me - I'd seen plenty of reports via internetland regarding the stock parts failing. I didn't have the stock tee fitted for long enough to do a before and after regarding cooling performance, but with the Y fitted my bike is as resistant to overheating as any bike with no fan probably could be.

I guess that someone with an infrared camera and a spare morning could possibly measure the functional difference between the two parts regarding how the rads share the workload, but speaking personally I'm just happy that the Y flows at least as well as stock and won't fall in half without warning. I also respect George's experience and judgement rather more than my own. :lol:
 
Just get a set of Silicone hoses that have done away with the T. Samco have them, no more worries.
:thumbsup:
 
Chayzed Pilot;142832 said:
Just buy the Uptite "Y" from George. It works great and looks good to boot. ".

werd. been dealing with george since the eary 90's i think or even before if memory serves. you can buy from him with absolute 100% confidence knowing it will work and you have access to the ultimate in support.
 
brock;142923 said:
Just get a set of Silicone hoses that have done away with the T. Samco have them, no more worries.
:thumbsup:

Who did you buy them from, I can only find thru 2008 TE450, even the Samco website shows this:
TE / TC 400/450/510 2002 - 2006
 
Email them and tell them you want the 2009 set without the T or Y piece. I have them on my TE510, they used my original oem hoses to make them from. :)
 
RideLI631;142854 said:
Engine ice, High flow impeller, uptite Y, CV4 silicone hoses and my bike runs niceeeee and cool. Only time the fan comes on is if i let it idle for a longg time.

I have the same set up and have has no problems. I race SM and I took the fan off. I have never even seen it run ever. But it's a different story for you woods guys where there is not as much air movement across the rads.
 
I had an overheating issue and replaced the crossover hose and the "T" piece for the "Y" also. the "Y" is a little awkward to fit due to the wiring harness and the fuel tank, with a few adjustments it fitted ok, filled the system with engine ice as well, everything has been good since.
 
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