• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Radiator Fan not turning on, how to wire it with a switch

Alberto

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey pilots..

Anyone having the same problem? Suggestions on how to wire a switch to the fan and be able to turn it on myself when needed as it never starts even if my radiador is throwing out the coolant..

Bike is '11 TE250

thanks!
 
If it were me i'd be busting out the multimeter and finding out WHY its not starting. Assuming the fan still speeds (wires straight from fan to battery will check that) It's either going to be lack of power or a busted thermo switch. Both are easily checked

But to answer your question. You have 2 options, either run 1 new wire directly from the battery into one prong of a switch, and then the other switch prong has a wire running directly to the power wire of the fan
Or, find the thermo switch, it's quite likely it will have 2 wires coming out of it. Connect those wires to a switch
Both of those methods will make the switch function like an ON/AUTO switch rather than ON/OFF. So assuming you replaced your thermo switch or whatever the problem was, and it started functioning again. If you turn the switch ON the fan will run constantly. If you turn it OFF then the fan will still kick on at the appropriate temperature by itself

In either instance, don't cut and twist wires together like a spastic. Use something like a connector tap
31576FL.gif


Insert the stock wire and your new wiring side by side, press the metal tab down with pliers then close the connector. This doesn't cut the connector it just pierces the insulation and bridges them together
 
It's best to fix the original problem but for those that put that in the too hard basket and would like to retain a temperature control, here's a poor mans solution which I used for an old bike that was very difficult to track down a stock thermo switch for

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Pcs-Bi...-NO-KSD9700-/301739393147?hash=item464111c07b

Simple bi-metal switch that will close the loop at a certain temperature, 85c in this case. Functions identically to a stock thermo switch
Run 1 wire direct from battery (or keyed ignition power) into 1 side of the bi-metal switch, other wire direct to the fan. Simply wedge the switch in the radiator fins. Won't respond quite as quickly as a switch thats directly in contact with the water flow, but it functions just fine
 
From my post in another thread:

I just added my switch to the connector that goes to the switch in the hose. I didn't want to cut it, since I'll probably add it back in, so I just used suitable gauge wire, soldered to the switch, and stuck the other (obviously stripped) ends in the connector. Then I taped it all up and used a zip-ty to secure it to the frame.

You could also use a tap splice or something similar to make it a little more neat.
 
If it were me i'd be busting out the multimeter and finding out WHY its not starting. Assuming the fan still speeds (wires straight from fan to battery will check that) It's either going to be lack of power or a busted thermo switch. Both are easily checked

But to answer your question. You have 2 options, either run 1 new wire directly from the battery into one prong of a switch, and then the other switch prong has a wire running directly to the power wire of the fan
Or, find the thermo switch, it's quite likely it will have 2 wires coming out of it. Connect those wires to a switch
Both of those methods will make the switch function like an ON/AUTO switch rather than ON/OFF. So assuming you replaced your thermo switch or whatever the problem was, and it started functioning again. If you turn the switch ON the fan will run constantly. If you turn it OFF then the fan will still kick on at the appropriate temperature by itself

In either instance, don't cut and twist wires together like a spastic. Use something like a connector tap
31576FL.gif


Insert the stock wire and your new wiring side by side, press the metal tab down with pliers then close the connector. This doesn't cut the connector it just pierces the insulation and bridges them together
 
HI GUYS,

the fan on my 2011 TE250 has never come on either, where is the thermo switch and how do i test it?
 
I took the fan off my 2010 TE250.

It never came on and never boiled over either.

OTOH, The fan on my 2012 TXC310 comes on a lot.

I think the 310 gives off more heat and maybe my 250 is just jetted that much richer.
 
+1 on where to locate the thermoswitch that activates the fan automatically. Also, is there any relation on the automatic turning on the fan, with the thermostat? I mean, if I remove the thermostat, will it affect the auto fan function in any way?
 
I think it's different on the 2011 models. On the 2013, the switch is in an aluminum piece, spliced into the hose on the right hand side of the bike.

Why are you removing the thermostat?
 
I think it's different on the 2011 models. On the 2013, the switch is in an aluminum piece, spliced into the hose on the right hand side of the bike.

Why are you removing the thermostat?


I live in a hot and humid place, Costa Rica. So, I really never need to have restrictions on the water flow to the engine. If I remove the thermostat, the water flow will be better, thus, the cooling function will be increased.
 
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