• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Rattle noise- help diagnose...video included

samp615

samp615

Husqvarna
C Class
Is this rattle noise coming from worn down gears?

In the video I am in neutral with the rattle noise, in first without the noise, and in neutral again with the noise.






 
Oil Level? It sounds like gears grinding, maybe theyre not completely dissengaging. Maybe check the clutch tolerances? It sounds like a two stroke outboard boat motor in between gears. not sure if that'll help.
 
Gears are always noisier in neutral, when there is no load on them. Hard to tell how bad it really sounds in that audio.
 
Its very loud. I put oil on the kicker side. I used 30w. This may be a dumb question, but i do not need to oil the left other side too, do i?

I may need mess with the clutch play and give it a little more because sometimes when I am in gear and I hold the clutch the bike still is tough to push.
 
It may be time for a new clutch or a rebuild. I would check the oil on the other side just to eliminate cylinders chatter. But it honestly sounds to me like the neutral isn't completely neutral so its catching the cog teeth tips.
 
samp615 said:
Is this rattle noise coming from worn down gears?

In the video I am in neutral with the rattle noise, in first without the noise, and in neutral again with the noise.






Click to expand...
We use 80W oil ..what's everyone else use on here?
 
Although I am ignorant, that's my educated guess too. I think I will first give the clutch a little more movement because the arm barely swings
 
samp615 said:
Although I am ignorant, that's my educated guess too. I think I will first give the clutch a little more movement because the arm barely swings
Click to expand...
Is your clutch lifter starving for oil? I have been told to use 80w gear oil in the crankcase.
 
My 400 has that sound, but not as loud. It might be the tabs on the clutch plates rattling in the basket on idle.
The friction coating breaks off the edges and then it gets a metal to metal rattle when it has no load on it.
 
I had a rattling/tinging noise when I fired up my 125 after complete tear down and rebuild. With a tip from huskydoggg, and watching one of his videos, led me to look into the preload I had on the kick start lever. I loosed up the kicker preload by moving it a few splines on the shaft and noise went away. By doing this the kicker does not engage until about half way through the stroke, but it still can be started easily. Scott
 
Thanks for the tip. It does sound similiar to when you try to kickstart an already running bike. Unfortunately I have just applied a new gasket to the case. shoot. looks like i'll have to redo it now
 
samp615, if you are responding to my post, there is no need to pull the cover off, just loosen the set screw, pull the kick lever off the shaft and index the kicker lever a few notches to reduce preload. That is, assuming your bike has the fine splines on the shaft. It's probably worth a try, hope it helps.
 
Hold the kick start shaft and move the kicker clockwise a couple splines. This will unwind the kick starter gear engagement.
Be careful not to let the shaft unwind. If it does you will have to pull the cover to reset it.
Your kick starter should not engage until the kick starter is about 3/4" from the rubber bumper.
 
There is no lowering or raising involved, but rather rotation. Mark the position of your kick lever and where it is positioned on the end of the splined shaft. Then remove kick lever and rotate the kick lever clockwise a notch or two relative to where it was. Tighten the bolt and fire it up and see what you get. If by removing some of the preload, your kicker lever will not come back up to its resting position then you have removed to much and you likely have other issues. To say much more than that is beyond my knowledge of the systems involved. Scott
 
rotate clockwise. yes.

I was just verifying. We just had a communication error between me saying lower/raise and you saying index.

I'll give it a try and let you know. thanks!
 
Had a very similar noise on mine a few years ago. Turned out to be the kickstart gear as described above. I just moved the kever a spline and it was fine.
Also check your clutch basket for wear. It wasn't until I fitted a new hard anodised one from HVA Factory that I realised how much noise was generated by a worn one.
 
I tried changing the kickstarter gear. It was real tough because when I took the lever off the gear automatically spun. I had to use pliers to turn it back while trying to get the level back on. I was able to do it, but its not completely gone, but better. I was too frustrated to try again so I will do it again later.
 
Just now had a chance to listen to the video. I would suggest that you keep working in this direction. As Ron mentioned the shaft can turn when you pull the kicker lever due to the preload. I used a pair of needle nose vice grips to rotate and hold the shaft while I indexed the lever. It may be frustrating, but if this solves the problem I believe you will find it was worth the trouble. If for some reason, it rotated so far something became unengaged and you need to pull the cover as Ron mentioned can happen, google search you tube for huskydogggs video concerning resetting the spring inside the cover. Good luck
 
Huskydoggs video is for the newer style motors, that have a completely different kick start arrangement than yours.
If you have to take the cover off you will be able to see the gear as it moves out to engage the kick start gear.
Just keep playing with the spring preload until the kicker is about 3/4" from the bumper when the gear starts to move out (cover off) or engages the kick starter (cover on).
 
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