• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rear Wheel Bearings

huskyista

huskyista

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have an 09 TE 250 with bad rear wheel bearings. Question; Is replacing the wheel bearings difficult? I looked in the manual and it showed their removal using a drift punch. I don't know if the bearings have enough difference in diameter for a drift punch to get a good bite on the bearings to knock them out. Has anyone had experience replacing these bearings? Are there any special tools made for the job?


Thanks
 
Many folks use a punch to remove old bearings without issue.
But anytime I try to do something "the easy way" it usually gets messed up.
A blind bearing puller and proper drivers are a good investment.
Learn to do it right and it will pay off for you in the long run.
Your bearings will last longer and you can always make a few bucks off your schmuck friends down the road.
 
Easy....remove the seals and circlip under the seal on one side of the hub if there is one.
Sprocket side of the wheel has two bearings the brake side has one.
Push inner sleeve to the side and tap out old bearing on the side with one bearing with a drift pin...maybe heat the hub a bit to make it easier. Tap even on each side so bearing comes out straight. Don't cock the bearing. Flip wheel and tap out two bearings on the other side.

Keep track of how it all goes back.
Put new bearings in the freezer, heat the hub with a propane torch.
Get the proper size socket from tool chest. Socket should only hit the OUTER RACE...if you tap the inner race you will destroy the new bearing. Tap in the new bearings...make sure they line up straight and they should all but fall into place.

Replace circlip and seals and you are done.
 
R_Little said:
Easy....remove the seals and circlip under the seal on one side of the hub if there is one.
Sprocket side of the wheel has two bearings the brake side has one.
Push inner sleeve to the side and tap out old bearing on the side with one bearing with a drift pin...maybe heat the hub a bit to make it easier. Tap even on each side so bearing comes out straight. Don't cock the bearing. Flip wheel and tap out two bearings on the other side.

Keep track of how it all goes back.
Put new bearings in the freezer, heat the hub with a propane torch.
Get the proper size socket from tool chest. Socket should only hit the OUTER RACE...if you tap the inner race you will destroy the new bearing. Tap in the new bearings...make sure they line up straight and they should all but fall into place.

Replace circlip and seals and you are done.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I'll give it a try when I get some time:thumbsup:.
 
R_Little said:
Easy....remove the seals and circlip under the seal on one side of the hub if there is one.
Sprocket side of the wheel has two bearings the brake side has one.
Push inner sleeve to the side and tap out old bearing on the side with one bearing with a drift pin...maybe heat the hub a bit to make it easier. Tap even on each side so bearing comes out straight. Don't cock the bearing. Flip wheel and tap out two bearings on the other side.

Keep track of how it all goes back.
Put new bearings in the freezer, heat the hub with a propane torch.
Get the proper size socket from tool chest. Socket should only hit the OUTER RACE...if you tap the inner race you will destroy the new bearing. Tap in the new bearings...make sure they line up straight and they should all but fall into place.

Replace circlip and seals and you are done.
Click to expand...

I got the bearings out today. Your advice worked. I would like the Tusk bearing puller if I did it again https://www.rockymountainatvmc./p/2801/20342/Tusk-Bearing-Remover The spacer sponge was full of water. I used wd 40 to help get the water out. I'll let it dry. To keep it from absorbing water, I'll spray it good with spray grease before assembly:thumbsup:
 
When you put the new bearings in put as much waterproof grease into them as you can. I put mine in the freezer for 2 hours so they slide in.
 
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