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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Relkuse Clutch
- Thread starter skywalker951
- Start date
Stolenfant
Husqvarna
A Class
I've got to say the three calls I've had with Rekluse have gone quite well. They're interested in TE's, but just keeping up with sales and development for the "sea or orange" (KTM for noobs), and other MX bikes has them running near 100%. Neither sales person, nor the tech person I spoke with was very familiar with Husky, or the 610 (much less the 630). They had no idea the clutch was identical in so many models of Husky. My kit was delayed by a single spring (6 in the kit), but when I called, the salesman said, "sorry your order has been here a week. I'll go through the returns boxes and find one of those springs (new), and get your kit out the next day." As promised I got an email with the invoice and shipment tracking number. They also are very interested in some documentation on what setups are working. Guys (and gals), we're just not a big enough market to devote already busy resources to.Pretty good video's on the Rekluse website. Of course I say that before doing the install myself
That's my two cents. More after this weekend's install.
Stolenfant
Husqvarna
A Class
Install wasn't that big a deal, but there are evidently differences in the 2009 TE610 and the 2008 TE 450 & 510 the RMS-568 clutch made for them. Being unfamiliar with Rekluse's, and considering it was after hours for Rekluse, I was on my own.
Issue 1:
Disassemble, and first discovery the 2009 TE610 throw out shaft is significantly larger than the hole in the Rekluse throwout supplied (Husky shaft is near 2x diameter), so I just left stock throwout and started reassembly. The remaining Rekluse parts were installed with C200L4, C150M3, six Tungsten balls and 21 Steel balls (spring selection came from a 2008 TE610 rider. I couldn't wait to see how wonderfully light the clutch pull was, so I pilled the lever, but NOTHING in the clutch pack moved, so I surmized the issue was use of my stock throwout. OK back to directions, and since the WR250 also used the stock husky throwout, I put in the Rekluse supplied WR250 spacer (Rekluse# 115-015). Now I had action in the clutch pack so I went back together with same springs and buttoned it all up, warmed the bike and started "Rekluse initial break-in procedure.
Issue 2:
Uh oh, the bike requires brake application to stand still with the clutch out, but when the engine is rev'd with clutch lever out is doesn't put any more power to the rear wheel, it just slips. PANIC Rekluse is closed (Saturday), so a lucky PM got this response from Excuvator, "you did adjust the clutch lever at 4000 rpm, right?"
OOPS, the manual makes it sound like that is for WR250 only, so I didn't. Backed the cable all the way out at handlebars, and most of the way out at the crankcase, and Voila! 
It still takes some brake pressure to hold the bike still with clutch out, but increase the revs, and away she goes.
Tuning time:
Although the clutch was engaging a little at idle, it didn't start pulling until RPM hit about 2100. So I tore it down and replaced the C150M3 with C150L2. I'm only changing one thing at a time.
The bike still wants to move forward at idle 1600, and with the clutch out, and enough brake to hold still, RPM drops to about 1500. I went through the 20+ breakin runs, and it still requires brake application to stop. Just before stop, you can sort of "feel" the clutch disengage a bit. I'm assuming this will smooth out over time. Unfortunately, it does not disengage enough even with the clutch lever to shift into neutral. I'm assuming this is due to the 6 balls and a relatively new Rekluse.
Once the bike cools sufficiently, I'm going to the Rekluse recommendation for 2008 TE510 of 6 TC balls, 21 steel, C200L5 and C150L2 (again only one spring change at the time).
Side Note: My bike has GIGANTIC Safari tank that requires removal to adjust the clutch cable at the crankcase. If not for that, I'd have already removed the WR250 spacer on the throwout. Now that I understand how "floppy" the clutch lever feels at idle, I suspect I could have done without it and I wouldn't have had to adjust the cable much at all. I'll try to update that before months end.
Issue 1:
Disassemble, and first discovery the 2009 TE610 throw out shaft is significantly larger than the hole in the Rekluse throwout supplied (Husky shaft is near 2x diameter), so I just left stock throwout and started reassembly. The remaining Rekluse parts were installed with C200L4, C150M3, six Tungsten balls and 21 Steel balls (spring selection came from a 2008 TE610 rider. I couldn't wait to see how wonderfully light the clutch pull was, so I pilled the lever, but NOTHING in the clutch pack moved, so I surmized the issue was use of my stock throwout. OK back to directions, and since the WR250 also used the stock husky throwout, I put in the Rekluse supplied WR250 spacer (Rekluse# 115-015). Now I had action in the clutch pack so I went back together with same springs and buttoned it all up, warmed the bike and started "Rekluse initial break-in procedure.
Issue 2:
Uh oh, the bike requires brake application to stand still with the clutch out, but when the engine is rev'd with clutch lever out is doesn't put any more power to the rear wheel, it just slips. PANIC Rekluse is closed (Saturday), so a lucky PM got this response from Excuvator, "you did adjust the clutch lever at 4000 rpm, right?"
OOPS, the manual makes it sound like that is for WR250 only, so I didn't. Backed the cable all the way out at handlebars, and most of the way out at the crankcase, and Voila! It still takes some brake pressure to hold the bike still with clutch out, but increase the revs, and away she goes. Tuning time:
Although the clutch was engaging a little at idle, it didn't start pulling until RPM hit about 2100. So I tore it down and replaced the C150M3 with C150L2. I'm only changing one thing at a time.
The bike still wants to move forward at idle 1600, and with the clutch out, and enough brake to hold still, RPM drops to about 1500. I went through the 20+ breakin runs, and it still requires brake application to stop. Just before stop, you can sort of "feel" the clutch disengage a bit. I'm assuming this will smooth out over time. Unfortunately, it does not disengage enough even with the clutch lever to shift into neutral. I'm assuming this is due to the 6 balls and a relatively new Rekluse.
Once the bike cools sufficiently, I'm going to the Rekluse recommendation for 2008 TE510 of 6 TC balls, 21 steel, C200L5 and C150L2 (again only one spring change at the time).
Side Note: My bike has GIGANTIC Safari tank that requires removal to adjust the clutch cable at the crankcase. If not for that, I'd have already removed the WR250 spacer on the throwout. Now that I understand how "floppy" the clutch lever feels at idle, I suspect I could have done without it and I wouldn't have had to adjust the cable much at all. I'll try to update that before months end.
Stolenfant
Husqvarna
A Class
It's done, lovin' it. Short setup info (C200L5 & C150L2 wave springs, 6 TC balls & 21 SS balls. Idle 1750-1800 in neutral. Result, factory engine braking feel, one finger clutch disengage, no stalling, and snap the throttle to wheelie if you have enough traction.
More detail and photos of issues I had to follow.
More detail and photos of issues I had to follow.
Sizzler
Husqvarna
AA Class
I put an RMS-865 on my TE630.
The idea was to make the bike trailbike a bit more anageble in tight single track, at least in theory.
The reaity is that i love playing with gadgets.
I ended up using 18 TC balls. You can idle at a stop with just a light touch on the rear brake.
Pluses
*Installation is easy- read the instruction and follow them. Don't be a smart-arse like me and try to do it otherwise.
*In the tight single-track and hills, it is definitly more user-freindly.
*In stop-start traffic it is great.
*Traffic-light launches are awsome.
Minuses-
*You get lazy with the clutch, and it spois you for "normal" bikes.
*You cant park it using first gear as a handbrake. In combination with the questionable sidestand, this can be a concern.
*You can't clutch-start the bike. If the battery is too low to crank, start walking.
*For cruisy comuting riding (which is, sadly, most of the miles I do) aroud 3-4k rpm, a handfull of thottle will give a bit of slip before the clutch fully bites. This is not enough to slow you, but it sounds wrong, and will probably war the clutch-plates faster. Not a problem when you are in "fun mode", as the revs are already up and the clutch is biting well.
For that last reason, I took it out and put the standard cluch back in. I will keep it, and add another 40 minutes to the convesion from "Hoony road bike" to "Big dirt bike", whenever I swap over wheels, chain, handlebars, and now, clutch.
The idea was to make the bike trailbike a bit more anageble in tight single track, at least in theory.
The reaity is that i love playing with gadgets.
I ended up using 18 TC balls. You can idle at a stop with just a light touch on the rear brake.
Pluses
*Installation is easy- read the instruction and follow them. Don't be a smart-arse like me and try to do it otherwise.
*In the tight single-track and hills, it is definitly more user-freindly.
*In stop-start traffic it is great.
*Traffic-light launches are awsome.
Minuses-
*You get lazy with the clutch, and it spois you for "normal" bikes.
*You cant park it using first gear as a handbrake. In combination with the questionable sidestand, this can be a concern.
*You can't clutch-start the bike. If the battery is too low to crank, start walking.
*For cruisy comuting riding (which is, sadly, most of the miles I do) aroud 3-4k rpm, a handfull of thottle will give a bit of slip before the clutch fully bites. This is not enough to slow you, but it sounds wrong, and will probably war the clutch-plates faster. Not a problem when you are in "fun mode", as the revs are already up and the clutch is biting well.
For that last reason, I took it out and put the standard cluch back in. I will keep it, and add another 40 minutes to the convesion from "Hoony road bike" to "Big dirt bike", whenever I swap over wheels, chain, handlebars, and now, clutch.
trevorwr450
Husqvarna
AA Class
With the RMS 856 fitting the 610 I was wondering if the Rekluse EXP clutch for the WR 250/300 would also work in Te610
Jonnymotox
Husqvarna
I needed a Basket for my 96 610 and I had just about written it off on finding one, FYI Talon makes a Bitchen' Clutch Basket for the 610's and they're way Cheaper in Cost than the Stock Baskets.
I got mine from DUBYA, Kristen hooked me up on it big time!
It took a couple of weeks but was worth every penny and the Wait!
I got mine from DUBYA, Kristen hooked me up on it big time!
It took a couple of weeks but was worth every penny and the Wait!
blueknob
Husqvarna
AA Class
I wonder if they make one for a 2007
BaronVonDarrin
Husqvarna
A Class
Sizzler
Husqvarna
AA Class
For the type of riding I do, the Rekluse doesn't suit me. If you are tootling around at a lazy 30000 or so, there is a little "turbo lag" as the clutch slips a bit before biting. On a gravel road, this means a blip of the throttle won't kick the back out, it slips the clutch nicely to get traction, and then kicks the back out. No a problem if you are on the gas and riding enthusiasticly, but a little uncomfortable when just cruising fireroads.
I will take it out again this week. I would prefer it doesn't just gather dust on a shelf, so if anyone wants to make me an offer...
I will take it out again this week. I would prefer it doesn't just gather dust on a shelf, so if anyone wants to make me an offer...
Xcuvator
Husqvarna
Pro Class
The clutch can be adjusted to engage any way you want it to. Rekluse has all the information on there wesite too help you.
Stolenfant
Husqvarna
A Class
Sizzler, you may want to try the "hard" engagement. If ride with a finger over clutch anyway, you can get same effect by "touching" the clutch with one finger as you blip throttle. Higher revs will give similar effect to "hard" engagement, and bypass any lag. Best luck getting a buyer. If I still had the TE, I'd be all over it!