• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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Removing a cylinder sleeve

Bigbill

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Ok I want to remove a sleeve intact so I can reinstall it. I want to add transfer ports. I said this in the past. I read somewhere if we heat the cylinder in a oven to 400 degrees the sleeve will fall out. Is this true? Then to reassemble it cool the sleeve down in the freezer and heat the cylinder again to 400 degrees and assemble the two pieces. Is this the only choice I have without ruining the sleeve? The sleeve is bored to .0035" piston clearance right now. I want to go to .004" clearance after it's back together. Are there other options that you guys/gals know of?

I ported three cylinders in the past trying different ideas as I built the engines. The last 81 250cr husky and the Honda cr125 had all the different porting I tried in one cylinder. Now in going to open up the side transfer ports and polish them and add the two transfer ports in the reed box section. Plus do the exhaust port. On the 81/250cr the bike ran great. The throttle response was awesome. When you went to turn the twistie it was like the engine knew ahead of time you were going to rev it. The only thing I didn't mention was the rib in the orginal transfer ports that they knife edge I do a facing down "C" shape. I feel it keeps the flow more centered in the port.
 
I always have la sleeve do mine. I can do a lot but that isn't something I would try to tackle. Must say though, I am curious how it will turn out for you.
 
ive watched guys do fourstroke resleeves and install big bore kits but two strokes are a different kettle having to line the ports up. key is too have a reference mark....
 
the shop i hung around sat the jug on a metal stand, close to the front of a bullet heater. after it was heated they pressed it out. installing they would do the same, pulling the new sleeve from the freezer. i remember they were in a hurry!
 
You need to pack the sleeve in dry ice to get the work time to orient the ports to the cylinder. You will likely find your bore out of round and have to bore and fit a larger piston. You can not heat and freeze the sleeve without seeing some level of distortion. But you already know this, we had this discussion the last time you posed this question. The physics have not changed.
 
jimspac said:
You need to pack the sleeve in dry ice to get the work time to orient the ports to the cylinder. You will likely find your bore out of round and have to bore and fit a larger piston. You can not heat and freeze the sleeve without seeing some level of distortion. But you already know this, we had this discussion the last time you posed this question. The physics have not changed.
Click to expand...
yeah im doubting the bore is going to be round. what i saw being done was a raw (new) sleeve being installed, then bore and finish hone. i would certainly not remove a good sleeve like being asked here.
i also am not sure why this is being asked again, already a thread about this with likely same answers. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/sleeve-removal-tool.86238/
 
If you layout the port pattern that is on the bottom of the 84 250WR cylinder, you can start core drilling to remove stock and then finish with a long dremel ball burr. I determined that this will work on one of my 82 250WR cylinders as there is a cavity behind the sleeve so would be no reason to remove the sleeve. See if at all you can add the tunnel without removing the sleeve because you will likely distort the cylinder and require replacing the piston you have said is already fitted. So simply try it my way to save your bore and piston.

For what it is worth, I verified that the 82 WR cylinder was made from the same casting the 84 250WR was
 
Yes the 82/83/84 250 wr ac cylinders are exactly the same.

I'm working on a 79 250cr ac cylinder and trying to add those verticle two ports from the crank case into the reed box the 82/83/84 250cr has. It's free power/hit/ response.
 
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