• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Removing the Starter Motor - 2010 250

Phoenix

Phoenix

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello all,

Per suggestions in other threads, I would like to remove my starter motor and inspect it for debris and gummed up parts. Before I start, I'm hoping someone that has done this can provide some pointers. Once the exhaust has removed and everything has been disconnected per the shop manual, does the worm gear simply pull out of the case? Does anything need to be secured or in a certain position (like the bike in a certain gear, etc)? Similarly, when reinstalling, does the worm gear just slide back in? I'm probably overthinking this, but the shop manual seemed to breeze over the part about actually extracting and inserting the worm gear.

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Phoenix said:
Hello all,

Per suggestions in other threads, I would like to remove my starter motor and inspect it for debris and gummed up parts. Before I start, I'm hoping someone that has done this can provide some pointers. Once the exhaust has removed and everything has been disconnected per the shop manual, does the worm gear simply pull out of the case? Does anything need to be secured or in a certain position (like the bike in a certain gear, etc)? Similarly, when reinstalling, does the worm gear just slide back in? I'm probably overthinking this, but the shop manual seemed to breeze over the part about actually extracting and inserting the worm gear.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Click to expand...

Yes. You can just slide the starter in and out. Two tips: make sure you line up the little oil hole in the gasket when you put it back in and once you have the starter pulled out an inch or so pull the motor from the 90 degree fitting and you can leave the worm gear in place or remove them both easier.
 
Well I pulled my starter motor Friday night and disassembled it. As per other threads, I found a mess of plastic shavings and gunk in there. Just giving the assembly a little shake knocked out a small pile of plastic shavings. On closer inspection, the plastic is chipping and falling off of everything. Some of the plastic had cracked and moved in such a way that it stuck up over the brushes. Plastic shavings were also down near the bearing going to the worm gear.

IMG_0002.jpg IMG_0003.jpg IMG_9998.jpg

I cleaned out all the loose plastic and chipped away at some of the stuff that looked like it was ready to fall off soon. I also trimmed down the plastic that stuck up over the brushes. The braided metal wires going to the pickups were a little worn too...I don't know if that has an effect on anything or not. Finally, I wiped off all of the surfaces to remove the dust and small shavings then blew it out with the air compressor. Much to my relief, after reassembling, the bike started right up on the third revolution. The main starting problem is when the bike is hot, though, so I have yet to test it when hot. Here is most of what came out of it:

IMG_0005.jpg IMG_0006.jpg
 
Thats exactly what my starter looked like inside also. Went through alot of cold and hot starts getting ready for a trip to Missouri. We put on 176 miles of singletrack in 3 days without a stitch of trouble with the starter. It should take care of the issue that people are having with there starters.
 
Thanks for the excellent pictorial! That crud looks like insulation from the commutator to me. Wonder if its shedding is a heat induced failure or a bad batch? Hope this solves your hot starting issue for good. FWIW, I kick start mine at least every ride just to stay familiar with what this bike likes to do it. Nice having that option. How many comments have you had on the unique sound of the starter on this bike? I'm used to it now but it is VERY unique.
 
Well the bad news is that the starter cleaning didn't seem to help in my case...or at least it wasn't a miracle cure. The thing still just won't start easily, though it may be ever so slightly more responsive to the button. Its almost as if something is catching in the motor. Putting it at top dead center with the kicker before using the button seems to make it want to start. Sometimes rocking it back and forth will help. I guess the search continues. I'm hoping to at least be patient with it until the 2012s come out. lol.
 
a while back I changed a leaky gasket on my cam chain tensioner. When I put the tensioner back I just jammed it back in and tightened the bolts. I did not retract the spring-loaded 'tensioner' part of the assembly. As a result, i couldn't start the bike.

After searching this site found the error of my ways and removed the assembly, pushed the pin into the assembly body, reattached the tensioner and pushed the pin in to the chain. Wa-la, easy starting.

I don't know if this is related in any way to your situation but maybe it can help.
 
Everything is worth checking and every suggestion is definitely welcome. At some point one of these suggestions will pan out. :)
 
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