• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Sae 20 Substitute

Quimo

Husqvarna
B Class
I just acquired a 1986 XC400 and would like to give it a good once over before I ride it regularly. In looking at the manual it recommends SAE20 for the crankcase oil, but it is proving a little hard to find. Is 5w-20 an acceptable substitute?
 
Use ATF type F, easy to find and the clutch and gears will love it..
1 of my favorite bikes the 86 400 XC, congrats on the bike.

:cheers:
 
I use a synthetic oil also, or Torco MTF-L like motomwo says above
MTF is a manual transmission fluid for a gearbox that is not directly affecting the crankcase, ie a 2 stroke
 
this is almost worth a long discourse on "lubricity" vs "clutch grab"
so without going into how viscosities are determined, and yes it is interesting
lets look at how much grip you want and how much gear protection you are willing to trade
if you can't effectively use your clutch then the gearbox is pretty useless in the real application
so type "F" atf is mentioned, it has a "grippy" property and as such makes a light clutch grab well
light clutch??? yes the trade off for a clutch that won't wear out your forearm but will grab with modern power
so,,, the trick is to protect the gears, as they are expensive to replace, have a clutch that you can use and not get arm pump
I personally use all the modern science I can, I use synthetic MTF, the reason for using synthetic is the difference in time, how often do you change your gear oil
 
Thank you for the responses! I ordered some of the recommended Torco, but will definitely be keeping an eye on this thread to see where it leads...
 
i never liked the atf type f in my swedes..too many shavings on the magnet, and type f is thinner than the average 20wt..
for years now ive been using rotella t6 diesel 5w40, which is a bit thicker but produces MUCH less material on the magnet and still shifts nicely. much better anti-wear additives in a diesel oil than atf, and much more resistant to shear. rotella t4 and t6 are both jaso ma rated.

atf is around 5-7 cSt@100 degrees,
20 weight oil is anywhere from 6-10 cSt@100 degrees

the published "weight" of an oil doesnt mean much, the centistroke rating is much more accurate, and is usually easily gotten from an oils website
 
I don't know that particular bike but I am having good results with UTTO 10w30 oil in my two stroke gearboxes, using it for years with good clutch and transmission feel, fewer debris on the drainplug magnet as well.

thats because 10w30 is a stout oil, and fairly close to the original recommended weight.
 
"gear" oil that is sae 80w...is the same thickness as almost a sae 30w "engine oil"

a 75w gear oil that played nice with a wet clutch would be ideal and provide excellent gear and bearing wear. the torco mentioned above fits this perfectly
image-asset.png


image-asset.gif
 
Seems odd that a 75W gear oil would be a proper substitute for 20 weight engine oil. The gear oil would surely be great for the gearbox, but I can’t believe that the clutch would behave the same. There must be a reason that Husqvarna originally specified such a light viscosity oil.

At least the gear oil wouldn’t have any friction reducing additives like most modern automotive motor oils do. I’m inclined to try using a good motorcycle JASO MA rated 10W30 as that will be closest to what was originally specified. 5W20 oils would be closer in viscosity to straight weight 20, but none of those would be JASO MA.
 
Yes 75wt gear oil is the proper substitute for 20 wt motor oil. I have been using Torco MTF-L 75wt in all my manual clutch Huskys. No clutch drag or slipping.

Marty
 
For what it is worth, I have been using the Torco MTF-L (75wt) in my 86 XC 400 for about 2 years, per recommendations on here and have had no issues.
 
Back
Top