• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Serviving Mazzocki 50 mm twin chamber forks

ghte

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hi Team, I am going to have a bash at replacing the fork seals on my 2010 TE 310. The Mazzochi's are 50mm twin chamber. I have done the 45mm single cartridge on my old 450's and 510's in the past but never had a crack at the twin chamber jobs.
I need guidance on the amount of fluid for the outer and inner chambers and also are there any instructions on pulling these forks down. The Rrocky Mountain ATV site does a good job on their video but they are KYB's. Any input or reference will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.

Glenn.
 
Are these not the original forks? I did not think any TE came with the twin chambers. Or maybe that is just a U.S. think and your TE is more like our TXC?
 
There is a special bleeding proccess for the inner chamber, and a special tool needed. You can make this tool out of 1 1/2" abs or pvc pipe...

Look for a post by JMetteer , he has the bleeding process spelled out from Ron at Marzocchi, and it's floating around here some where...

The inner chamber takes as much oil as you can stuff in it, and the outter is around 300cc I believe, but double check that...
 
Previously posted by: jmetteer,​

I just got off the phone with Ron from Marzochhi, the guy from the article. He said the editor wrote that from looking at​
the pictures and didn't use his instructions. So he emailed them to me. :applause:

Here they are from the man himself.:thumbsup:

Thanks Ron!​

Step 1. While the fork is still in the crown make sure to loosen the plug unit on the top of the leg. It is easier to do this know instead of trying to remove the plug unit when the cartridge is removed from the fork in a couple of minutes. You will need a Race Tech pin spanner to remove the cap from the slider and you will also need a 19mm box end to remove the center plug from the cap. Make sure that the top crown is loose before you attempt to release the cap unit from the stanchion​

Step 2. Remove the leg from the crowns. At this point you can drain the fork oil from the leg. Make sure to drain the oil into something you can use to measure the amount of oil you remove from the leg. It is a good idea to use fresh oil when you reassemble the fork. Usually around 280cc’s of oil is what will pour out of each leg. After the fork is drained you can hand tighten the cap into the slider and then process to remove the foot nut from the dropout. You will need a 21mm socket to remove the footnut from the dropout.​

Step 3. after the footnut has been removed you can slide the cartridge out of the slider. You can leave the spring inside the slider unit just to keep it out of the way! Now you can remove the 19mm plug from the cartridge and dump the oil from the cartridge. Don’t worry about saving the oil because you will need to use fresh oil just to be safe.​

Step 4. Make sure to have the cartridge shaft pulled out to full extension. Fill the cartridge halfway and then pump the shaft slowly until you can tell that there is very little air in the oil. Continue this process until the cartridge is full to the top. With the cartridge at full extension insert the plug into the cartridge. Just tighten the plug, you will need to remove it shortly to refill the cartridge.​

Step 5. Fully compress the cartridge and let it sit compressed for about 10 seconds. Pull the cartridge to full extension and take a look at the top of the bladder, notice the dimples on the bladder? That is what we need to get rid of to complete the bleed on the system.​

Step 6. You will need a special tool to keep the system sealed during this step. I made my tool out of a piece of 1 ½ inch PVC pipe that is about 4mm thick. Cut it in half and get a hose clamp and you are ready to go. Just make sure that the inside edge is smooth so that is will not cut the bladder shave all the corner’s to a dull point.​

Step 7. Repeat step 5 so that you can see the dimples again. At this point you can start to slowly compress the cartridge until you start to see the dimples vanish. Keep compressing the cartridge until the bladder is plump (usually about 4’’ into the stroke) to the touch. Now you will have to use the tool you just made to block the ports on the cartridge. Make sure it is all the way against the top cap and then use the hose clamp to fix the two halves of the PVC pipe onto the bladder. Make sure that the fork is still compressed 4’’ the whole time. The idea here is to preload the bladder with a little more oil to get most of the air out of the system for a more consistent feel.​

Step 8. Remove the plug from the 19mm plug from the cartridge. Be careful not to touch the bladder, hold it on the actual aluminum portion of the body not the bladder. Now you can extend the cartridge to full stroke. You will notice after you fully extend the cartridge that the oil level will be a bit lower.​

Step 9. Top the cartridge off and then reinstall the 19mm plug into the cartridge. You are going to spill some oil at this point so make sure to hang out over some sort of tray to keep the oil off the floor. Just make the 19mm plug hand tight. Go ahead and remove the hose clamp and the halves of the bladder clamp.​

Step 10. Repeat step 5. If you see the dimples after you fully extend the cartridge you will have to repeat the last couple of steps until you do not see the dimples when the cartridge is fully extended. You can always make the bladder a little fatter before you clamp the PVC halves onto the bladder.​

Step 11. Go ahead and put the cartridge back into the leg. Add about 280cc’s of oil to the leg and you are ready to go.​

If you have any questions please feel free to contact Marzocchi Suspension 661-257-6630 or techron@marzocchiusa.com
 
Wow great response guys, Thank you so much for the effort. It is very much appreciated. This is why I love Cafe Husky. Great people happy to help out.
Cheers.
 
I guess I'm a pu:censored:y I'm a little to nervous to mess with these forks. If my fork seals blow, I guess I'll keep riding, or mail em out!!
 
I guess I'm a pu:censored:y I'm a little to nervous to mess with these forks. If my fork seals blow, I guess I'll keep riding, or mail em out!!


WHAT??? An A+ rider, that is scared to work on his forks??? Say it aint so**************************************** :eek:

Ship those things out to me! haha
 
WHAT??? An A+ rider, that is scared to work on his forks??? Say it aint so :eek:

Ship those things out to me! haha
I have experience with the open cartridge zokes but because of the twin chamber and a few things I have heard, I guess I'm a bit scared to mess with them! From what I understand it is even difficult to change the fork oil. The open cartridge are great, it is easy to adjust oil height and all! I'm not gonna lie either, once I get a good overall setting (If it works in Akeley MN) where they have had national enduros, it will more then likely work anywhere. So I NEVER even change the settings once dialed in at Akeley!!! Honestly not sure if it is the way my forks are set up, but for the last 1/3 of travel, and for that matter the 1st 1/4 to 1/3 of travel I think I prefer the open chamber forks. I just guess I had the twin chambers installed (had my choice because I ditched the jap Kayabas) for the bling factor and the fact they are a more expensive fork! If I took the time to tear the twin chamber down, it may not be that hard! But hey the Husky owners manual doesn't even list the twin chamber fork****************************************!
 
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