• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Splitting A Wr430 Case For New Bearings Etc.

M

mcjongs

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi I'm relatively new to the forum and have some questions:

I'm overhauling a 1983 WR430 engine and have some difficulties with splitting the block halves.. What is the best way? Using a retracting tool to press out the crank from the right side?

I also have a question re. using a CR430 crank/rod assy from a 1986 CR in the WR engine.
I see that the small end of the conrod is more tiny with kind of cut outs for better lube?

My plan is to put this engine into a 1984 WR240 (air cooled) that I recently bought.

Happy to get some info here..

Kind regards
mcjongs
 
Also, use as WIDE a small end bearing as will fit in the piston gap. No thrust washers on primary kick bikes over 250cc

Doesn't matter if you split cases either side but re-assemble into the left half and don't forget the 2mm spacer on the right of the crank!
 
The slot on the left end of the crank is the drive for the water pump. You may have to cut off the extension and make the stub like the one in the air cooled crank if you have the aircooled clutch cover.

You can also use a universal case splitter that will work on any case set. Tusk makes a good one.
 
And please note. Dont press your bearings in or out. They are a heat shrink fit. Heat your cases and bearing with a tap will fall out. Heat your cases again and set them in the main bearings having the backing ring plates installed. Most would be surprised on how little the percentage of the bearing bores really are sunggly touching the bearing.Treat those case bores well. More details if needed.
 
Heating should be in an oven 300° F and not done with a torch . You do not get even temp around the bearing and far too easy to overheat the case.
 
This is the quote from the engineers for the typical bearing fit in a standard bore, Imagine if the last party spun a bearing or worse yet just pressed out his bearing from case taking some much needed materal with it. "Typical interference fit has 30% metal-to-metal contact."
 
Time go by..
Now I have a new engine to put to gether..
A WR430 block and crank & piston but wonder if I could use a WR240 gear/transmission & Clutch?.. I ask this as I have a complete WR240 engine to take parts from..
Also the bearing numbers for all bearings?

Huge vibrations.. is it possible that rear bushing contains rubber dampening between the block and swing arm bolt/pivot?
The engine I have in now vibrates so much so that the carb ''produce'' air bubbles around the main jet.. with piston zeising as a result..

Thanks in advance.

Jon
 
I would say you can switch the primary drive gear on the crank, the starter gears, the clutch and transmission. Less depending on the years of host and donor.

No rubber mount at the rear. The swingarm pivot hole can be worn in the frame and engine insert. The crank may have issues?
 
Make sure the carb body is not touching the engine cases, anywhere. This can cause the fuel foaming that you are experiencing. If you still have excessive vibration with correct and tight engine mounts, then you'll have to have the crank inspected to make sure that it's as true as possible. It's easy to knock the crankshaft out of true if the disassembly or reassembly is not correct.
 
hva-factory said:
It is important that you use a tool to push the crank - to split the cases, as if you hit the crank ends - you may well either damage them or move them in the flywheel halves. This then means you need to take the crank apart...

Buy or make a tool.

http://hva-factory.com/bottom-end-gearbox/husqvarna-primary-kick-2t-crank-case-shaft-separating-tool
Click to expand...


Getting ready to do two motors now. One is already apart and needs the crank serviced.
Your rod kits looks amazing!! What are the specs? Who makes your Pistons are they Wossner? Are they cast or forged?
 
mcjongs said:
Time go by..
Now I have a new engine to put to gether..
A WR430 block and crank & piston but wonder if I could use a WR240 gear/transmission & Clutch?.. I ask this as I have a complete WR240 engine to take parts from..
Also the bearing numbers for all bearings?

Huge vibrations.. is it possible that rear bushing contains rubber dampening between the block and swing arm bolt/pivot?
The engine I have in now vibrates so much so that the carb ''produce'' air bubbles around the main jet.. with piston zeising as a result..

Thanks in advance.

Jon
Click to expand...



I used the 1st-3rd gears from a '87 250 in this "87 430 that I'm doing now. Reason for rebuild is vibration. Worked awesome in the tight single track and had nice high gears for the road. Running 15/54 sprockets. I was planning on using the same set up again but traded some 430ae parts for a fresh bottom end as I turn it into more of a plated Dual Sport bike. Goal is to have a left kicker for every occasion!! lol

IMG_2696.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top