• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Spoke torque wrench

ozzie

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just put on a new Michelin T63 and when he put the wheel back on, he then put a torque wrench on the spoke :thumbsup: I forgot to ask him where he got it from :doh:. So where would you get one from?:excuseme:
 
Fleabay has them also. I have the excel version comes with 6 different size ends to fit almost all spokes except 7mm which i have been getting alot of to do! Now i have to find another end for it.
 
Does anyone know the size spoke wrench for the 2008 SM510R? Motosportz Husky spoke wrench says it will not fit the SM spokes. I tried a small adjustable wrench but it wanted to round the edges so I need the correct tool. Thanks.
 
hey Fitness., before you jump on the spoke torque wrench band wagon you might wanna ask George what he thinks of them. Makes sense that it's pretty unreliable to rely on that since crud, tube lube or ANYTHING can make that method pretty unreliable.
 
I tried George's method, but some spokes were really loose so only turning every other spoke a quarter turn each time would leave me with some tight and some loose after a couple of passes on each side. I don't have a clue how to tighten them evenly to keep the wheel true or even how to slightly true a wheel. Any tips would be appreciated.
 
Old fashioned methods of using your ears is one of the best ways. Just don't over think it. Tappping them with the spoke wrench in the same area. Preferably right in the middle tells you pretty clearly which ones are loose compared to the others. Just tighten the offenders in small increments. After mounting a few tires myself I can totally see how a torque wrench really isn't any help in really verifying how loose or tight a spoke actually is compared to all the other variables that can influence how much/little force it takes to turn one.
 
Here's one way to properly tighten spokes evenly;(assuming the wheel is already true, with no runout)*

Pick a starting spot on the rim - ie the valve stem.
Start with the spoke immediately beside the stem, on the side in the direction you are going to spin the wheel during this procedure. Personally I spin the wheel clockwise when sitting just to my right of the wheel(left side of the bike for front wheel, right side of bike for rear wheel).
So I start with the spoke on the side of the stem towards the bike.

I use a small adjustable wrench - about 6" long. Back off the nipple a 1/4 turn & then tighten the spoke with about 2-3 lbs of finger pressure with your thumb on the jaw of the wrench. Use the muscles in your wrist&fingers to turn the wrench, not your arm muscles. This will tighten them just enough to make them give a high pitched 'ding' when you tap the middle of the spoke with the wrench.
If you aren't able to safely do this by hand without overtightening or, are built like a yard ape that can tear phone books in half, use a torque wrench.
If the spoke nut is already snug on any given spoke, move on to the next(see next paragraph).

When the first spoke is done, skip the next 2 spokes and do the 3rd spoke from the first one you did(#4 from the valve stem). Then, skip 2 more spokes, ie. count 1,2,3, tighten, and so on until you've gone all the way around the wheel.
Now, start with the 2nd spoke from the valve stem and repeat, skipping 2 spokes each time, again going all the way around the wheel.
Now, start with the 3rd spoke from the stem and repeat as above.

This method will prevent you from moving the rim out of true radially or laterally during the tightening procedure.
Takes about 15 min per wheel and your good to go.

*If the wheel is out of true, bring it back into true and then use the above procedure.


HINT:Most people aren't aware of a product that will make your life worlds easier when it comes to spokes. It's a product called 'Spoke Set' by ThreeBond. It prevents spokes from seizing up. Put a drop on each spoke at the nipple - it wicks into the threads, and it's good for years.
 
exit90a;96467 said:
Does anyone know the size spoke wrench for the 2008 SM510R? Motosportz Husky spoke wrench says it will not fit the SM spokes. I tried a small adjustable wrench but it wanted to round the edges so I need the correct tool. Thanks.

Front = 5.6mm/Rear = 6.1mm for future reference.:thumbsup: Applies to SM450/510R only.
 
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