• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

starting

Jim Deady

Geezer
Yep, it's me again back in the wilds of Ireland. You guy's were a great help the last time so I'll give it another shot.

Your advice in June got me on it and riding it, it being a 78 250 CR. I had the inevitable low side and only snapped the brake lever which made for an interesting ride home. Everything here is straight up or straight down, nothing flat. The next day I went out to start it and nothing, not even a hiccup. Before I start doing stuff I probably shouldn't I thought I'd come begging again.

Do these carbs flood easily and do they eat plugs ? Are newer Bings more efficient and should I carry a plug and plug wrench with me ? Remember guy's, I'm 67 and just want to have a good time. There're no shows or races in it's future or mine. Are there any reversible upgrades for the Electrics or the Carb ?

Many Thanks,
Jim
 
When ever I have this problem with a 2 Stroke I pull the Carb find absolutly nothing wrong blow it out anyway put it back togeather and the Bike starts right up. On the rare times this dosn't work I change the Plug. If that dosn't work I start looking at the Kill Button and how much spark it still has.
 
Yep, it's me again back in the wilds of Ireland. You guy's were a great help the last time so I'll give it another shot.

Your advice in June got me on it and riding it, it being a 78 250 CR. I had the inevitable low side and only snapped the brake lever which made for an interesting ride home. Everything here is straight up or straight down, nothing flat. The next day I went out to start it and nothing, not even a hiccup. Before I start doing stuff I probably shouldn't I thought I'd come begging again.

Do these carbs flood easily and do they eat plugs ? Are newer Bings more efficient and should I carry a plug and plug wrench with me ? Remember guy's, I'm 67 and just want to have a good time. There're no shows or races in it's future or mine. Are there any reversible upgrades for the Electrics or the Carb ?

Many Thanks,
Jim
Your bike should have a Mikuni on it. Plug, Kill switch, and then coil for ground.
 
When ever I have this problem with a 2 Stroke I pull the Carb find absolutly nothing wrong blow it out anyway put it back togeather and the Bike starts right up. On the rare times this dosn't work I change the Plug. If that dosn't work I start looking at the Kill Button and how much spark it still has.
When ever I have this problem with a 2 Stroke I pull the Carb find absolutly nothing wrong blow it out anyway put it back togeather and the Bike starts right up. On the rare times this dosn't work I change the Plug. If that dosn't work I start looking at the Kill Button and how much spark it still has.
When ever I have this problem with a 2 Stroke I pull the Carb find absolutly nothing wrong blow it out anyway put it back togeather and the Bike starts right up. On the rare times this dosn't work I change the Plug. If that dosn't work I start looking at the Kill Button and how much spark it still has.
When ever I have this problem with a 2 Stroke I pull the Carb find absolutly nothing wrong blow it out anyway put it back togeather and the Bike starts right up. On the rare times this dosn't work I change the Plug. If that dosn't work I start looking at the Kill Button and how much spark it still has.
 
When ever I have this problem with a 2 Stroke I pull the Carb find absolutly nothing wrong blow it out anyway put it back togeather and the Bike starts right up. On the rare times this dosn't work I change the Plug. If that dosn't work I start looking at the Kill Button and how much spark it still has.


I like it, quick and easy even for an old Geezer !
You guy's are great. I should have started this about 20 years ago but it's still fun now !
 
Your bike should have a Mikuni on it. Plug, Kill switch, and then coil for ground.

It's a Bing, did they switch them to Mikuni ? I think I have it, " Plug, kill switch, and coil." It's 1:30 AM here but it will be running in the morning. Should I be looking for a Mikuni

Do you guys have plugs you prefer or any other disposables that may work better in these 250's.

On the carb front, on an unrelated bike. I had to replace the original Amals with up-dated ones. It seems the new fuels destroy the old floats and gaskets. They also said something about changing some of the metal types on the internals. You can still get the old ones but the updated are about the same price. The old girl got a boyer electronic ignition and she should be good for more years than I am !

Many Thanks,
Jim
 
When ever I have this problem with a 2 Stroke I pull the Carb find absolutly nothing wrong blow it out anyway put it back togeather and the Bike starts right up. On the rare times this dosn't work I change the Plug. If that dosn't work I start looking at the Kill Button and how much spark it still has.

I just reread the," take the carb off and blow it off and change the plug !" I hate it when I do something that simple and it works. You never really know for how long or why !
 
maybe water/oil in the carb sits at the bottom gets sucked in when the bike is layed down, same for stator also engine with oil residue in the crank getting picked up and fouling the plug.
 
maybe water/oil in the carb sits at the bottom gets sucked in when the bike is layed down, same for stator also engine with oil residue in the crank getting picked up and fouling the plug.

Thanks,

Something else to look at. I thought 2 Strokes were easy.....

The Geezer
 
A another fault to follow through, did you turn fuel off properly, or does the tap let fuel through when shut, if not carb will flood slightly and due to slight down draught you will end up with flooded engine, It takes a lot of kicking and dry plugs to clear a wet engine. Villiers engines have a crankcase drain for just this eventually, well worth considering if you rebuild the engine at any time. To combat this I always remove the fuel pipe from the carb when I put her away. I also drain the fuel, the octane and water absorbing tendencies mean it needs to be stored in a sealed container. This problem occurs with all carbs, Mikuni, Amal or Bing.
 
yes, you should definitely fit a mikuni vm 38 roundslide...

The Mikuni is something that may make the world easier. It would be an easy swap. I assume a Mikuni will run better and be easier to deal with than a bing, it's more familiar. None of what I just wrote is based on personal knowledge. You guy's are way ahead of me, I'm just trying to keep up !

Many Thanks,
 
A another fault to follow through, did you turn fuel off properly, or does the tap let fuel through when shut, if not carb will flood slightly and due to slight down draught you will end up with flooded engine, It takes a lot of kicking and dry plugs to clear a wet engine. Villiers engines have a crankcase drain for just this eventually, well worth considering if you rebuild the engine at any time. To combat this I always remove the fuel pipe from the carb when I put her away. I also drain the fuel, the octane and water absorbing tendencies mean it needs to be stored in a sealed container. This problem occurs with all carbs, Mikuni, Amal or Bing.
A another fault to follow through, did you turn fuel off properly, or does the tap let fuel through when shut, if not carb will flood slightly and due to slight down draught you will end up with flooded engine, It takes a lot of kicking and dry plugs to clear a wet engine. Villiers engines have a crankcase drain for just this eventually, well worth considering if you rebuild the engine at any time. To combat this I always remove the fuel pipe from the carb when I put her away. I also drain the fuel, the octane and water absorbing tendencies mean it needs to be stored in a sealed container. This problem occurs with all carbs, Mikuni, Amal or Bing.


I pushed the fuel tap to the stop but I have no way of knowing if the tap lets a small amount of fuel through once closed. The bike isn't used on a daily basis so pulling the fuel line sounds like a good idea. No fuel line, no fuel ! Anything to avoid plug changes and an afternoon's kicking. Is there an alternative to plug swaps and kicking for a flooded motor. I doubt it but I thought I'd just toss it out there.

Many Thanks
 
It's a Bing, did they switch them to Mikuni ? I think I have it, " Plug, kill switch, and coil." It's 1:30 AM here but it will be running in the morning. Should I be looking for a Mikuni

Do you guys have plugs you prefer or any other disposables that may work better in these 250's.

On the carb front, on an unrelated bike. I had to replace the original Amals with up-dated ones. It seems the new fuels destroy the old floats and gaskets. They also said something about changing some of the metal types on the internals. You can still get the old ones but the updated are about the same price. The old girl got a boyer electronic ignition and she should be good for more years than I am !

Many Thanks,
Jim
All huskys had a Mikuni on them in 78 I think the CRs had them in 77.The Bing is ok for MXing but for technical stuff the Mikuni meters better. I had the Bing on my 76 250WR and my both of 78 250CR's came with Mikuni carbs.
 
All huskys had a Mikuni on them in 78 I think the CRs had them in 77.The Bing is ok for MXing but for technical stuff the Mikuni meters better. I had the Bing on my 76 250WR and my both of 78 250CR's came with Mikuni carbs.

This bike was MX's in a past life but that's not going to happen in this life. From what I read ( a dangerous thing ) it came with a bing and was updated to a more advanced bing in 79, whatever. The Mikuni sounds like it's easier to deal with. If it meters better and it's accurate for the date, the mikuni is on.

Many Thanks !
 
This bike was MX's in a past life but that's not going to happen in this life. From what I read ( a dangerous thing ) it came with a bing and was updated to a more advanced bing in 79, whatever. The Mikuni sounds like it's easier to deal with. If it meters better and it's accurate for the date, the mikuni is on.

Many Thanks !
That could be true for the European Models. I used my first 78 250CR for Enduros back in 78and it got me by pretty well, the one I have now just gets used for Vintage MX ,you have come to the right place for any info you may need.
Good luck with your Husky
Bill
 
That could be true for the European Models. I used my first 78 250CR for Enduros back in 78and it got me by pretty well, the one I have now just gets used for Vintage MX ,you have come to the right place for any info you may need.
Good luck with your Husky
Bill

You had better believe this is the right place to come with problems. For someone new to the world of two strokes it's like having the best mechanical and riding team at your fingertips. I would be even more lost a and fumbling then I usually am. This village on the SW Coast of Ireland doesn't have much mechanically going for it unless your satisfied with the occasional passing tractor. As I've said, Gortahig, our village, has my wife and I and two other houses and their shepherds.
 
I would go with Mikuni, only because it's the only carb I've ever had on all my dirt bikes for almost 50 years. Not to say Bings aren't ok.

You could very well have a crankcase full of fuel, if your float stuck or a bad float needle and a bad petcock at the tank. Anymore, I simply disconnect the fuel line at the carb when I'm done riding. If the crank is full of fuel, you can remove the spark plug and kick that thing for a few minutes, then let it sit for a few days. Or, as I've done in the past, pull off the carb and stick a small diameter rubber hose through the intake down into the bottom of the crank case, then hook up to an air compressor and let her blow for an hour. That pretty much evaporates any fuel left in there.

Throw a brand new plug into the equation, and confirm spark. Turn on the fuel just long enough to fill the bowl, then shut it off (just in case you have a bad float needle), then proceed to light her up. Don't forget to turn the gas back on once running,
 
I would go with Mikuni, only because it's the only carb I've ever had on all my dirt bikes for almost 50 years. Not to say Bings aren't ok.

You could very well have a crankcase full of fuel, if your float stuck or a bad float needle and a bad petcock at the tank. Anymore, I simply disconnect the fuel line at the carb when I'm done riding. If the crank is full of fuel, you can remove the spark plug and kick that thing for a few minutes, then let it sit for a few days. Or, as I've done in the past, pull off the carb and stick a small diameter rubber hose through the intake down into the bottom of the crank case, then hook up to an air compressor and let her blow for an hour. That pretty much evaporates any fuel left in there.

Throw a brand new plug into the equation, and confirm spark. Turn on the fuel just long enough to fill the bowl, then shut it off (just in case you have a bad float needle), then proceed to light her up. Don't forget to turn the gas back on once running,

Everyone seems to think the Mikuni is the best bet so one goes on. No compressor out here in the garage at the end of the Universe so popping the plug and some kicking and than waiting seems to be the best idea. You know what ? You might be right about turning the gas on for to long in the starting process. The fuel line definitely gets disconnected after a ride.

You guys are great ! If I try everything in some kind of logical order it's bound to work. The printer may run out of ink before I get all this on paper.

Many Thanks
 
not sure if its been done already but a compression test would be wise...it will let you know how healthy the top end is, not to mention any other bikes or vehicles you have...
 
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