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Studding tires

Xcuvator

Xcuvator

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I have been hearing more and more about the advantages of studded tires this time of year and finally decided to give it a try, after spending the better part of a day locating frozen mudpuddles hidden by a thin layer of snow. I'm hoping to find out what works the best for size and how many.
From what I can gather from searching the screw in type are very likely to turn into trail litter, so I found a stud gun to install auto type studs.
A couple of questions:

Are the studs supposed to go as far into the knobs as possible without getting into the casing?

For light snow, icy mud and some ice, should there be a stud in half the knobs, two thirds or ?
Side knobs too?
I guess I'm trying to get the best of both worlds, because I'd also like to still get some grip in the bare rocks.

Any pointers would be welcomed.
 
I have always used 3/8 long Machine screws in every Lug on both tires Never had a prolbem on lakes or snowy trails, as far as rocks & asphalt they are very slippery
 
Are you doin it for general riding or actual ice racing? If actual Ice racing the studs can never touch any thing other than ice or they will become dull and ruined. Usually 1" or more and you can make a liner out an old slick tire for the inside. If just for general riding sheet metal screws will do. I'm running Kold Kutter screws for the ice and you hook up better than pavement!
 
R. Stephen said:
Are you doin it for general riding or actual ice racing? If actual Ice racing the studs can never touch any thing other than ice or they will become dull and ruined. Usually 1" or more and you can make a liner out an old slick tire for the inside. If just for general riding sheet metal screws will do. I'm running Kold Kutter screws for the ice and you hook up better than pavement!
Click to expand...
Buy extra screws and give them to a 16 year old kid short on cash if he studs up your tires. And don't forget the 1/4" drive bit in the drill. (man that was 33 years ago****************************************). Great traction till you hit pavement.
Hodaka Bob
 
Xcuvator said:
I have been hearing more and more about the advantages of studded tires this time of year and finally decided to give it a try, after spending the better part of a day locating frozen mudpuddles hidden by a thin layer of snow. I'm hoping to find out what works the best for size and how many.
From what I can gather from searching the screw in type are very likely to turn into trail litter, so I found a stud gun to install auto type studs.
A couple of questions:

Are the studs supposed to go as far into the knobs as possible without getting into the casing?

For light snow, icy mud and some ice, should there be a stud in half the knobs, two thirds or ?
Side knobs too?
I guess I'm trying to get the best of both worlds, because I'd also like to still get some grip in the bare rocks.

Any pointers would be welcomed.
Click to expand...
Those stud guns are very good. You need a tire with chunky tall knobs. Try to get a rear tire with 15.5 or taller knobs-this is the depth of the drill hole[15.5mm x 3.5mm]
For the front it's 12.5mm x 3.5mm holes-use a dremel or equivalent
The traction is outstanding, try to have each stud a little spaced out-might look at a Trelleborg winter friction tire for a better idea[the Trelleborg tires are worth every penny]
If you do a good job your rear will likely will last 3-4 years zero maintenance
You can ride anything-they work passable in the rocks and amazing on moto/trails/snow/frozen mud
These are not made for ice racing
Your tire needs to be mounted as you need to push hard to hold the stud gun into the bottom of your drilled hole
 
steadydirt said:
Those stud guns are very good. You need a tire with chunky tall knobs. Try to get a rear tire with 15.5 or taller knobs-this is the depth of the drill hole[15.5mm x 3.5mm]
For the front it's 12.5mm x 3.5mm holes-use a dremel or equivalent
The traction is outstanding, try to have each stud a little spaced out-might look at a Trelleborg winter friction tire for a better idea[the Trelleborg tires are worth every penny]
If you do a good job your rear will likely will last 3-4 years zero maintenance
You can ride anything-they work passable in the rocks and amazing on moto/trails/snow/frozen mud
These are not made for ice racing
Your tire needs to be mounted as you need to push hard to hold the stud gun into the bottom of your drilled hole
Click to expand...
Also should mention you need 150 pounds of air pressure to really set the studs down into the tire
The front studded tire will last twice as long as the back at least- in a July mudder you might wish you had them on your bike!
 
steadydirt said:
Also should mention you need 150 pounds of air pressure to really set the studs down into the tire
The front studded tire will last twice as long as the back at least- in a July mudder you might wish you had them on your bike!
Click to expand...

Sounds like all good information.
I got a gun finally and have done some expermentaion. You didn't mention your stud lengths and that will determine the reveal of the tip. From the pictures I've seen I was going to shoot (no pun) for about 1-2mm. My first attempt will be on slightly used tires and will adjust by using differnt lenghts. I think I will try every-other knob by forming a vee pattern with the layout. The vee will point opposite the direction of travel in the front and with rotation on the rear.
I never thought about high inflation pressure, I'll give that a try. The little I've done 30PSI with windex for lube seems to get them to the bottom of the holes.
 
Xcuvator said:
Sounds like all good information.
I got a gun finally and have done some expermentaion. You didn't mention your stud lengths and that will determine the reveal of the tip. From the pictures I've seen I was going to shoot (no pun) for about 1-2mm. My first attempt will be on slightly used tires and will adjust by using differnt lenghts. I think I will try every-other knob by forming a vee pattern with the layout. The vee will point opposite the direction of travel in the front and with rotation on the rear.
I never thought about high inflation pressure, I'll give that a try. The little I've done 30PSI with windex for lube seems to get them to the bottom of the holes.
Click to expand...
hold it! the 150 pounds air pressure is for the stud gun!
 
KLOC said:
Link button seems broken in Chrome, but the link below was started by the guy who has organized the 24-Hour Numb Bum Endurance Ice Race for the past ... forever.

Lots of discussion about what actually works and what most definitely does not work.

http://albertadualsport.ca/showthread.php?5166-Tell-us-what-type-are-you-studs-all-screwed-up-or-slippy-slide-...&highlight=slippy[/quote]

Thanks for the link. Looks like you guys have a lot of fun in the winter.
I for some reason couldn't get the pictures to work, but picked up some good information.
Click to expand...
 
Check out gripstuds.com I am on the same studs second rear tire, did not loose one off the rear last year and studs are still in good shape. They work great on all the slick wet roots and trails around here. There are many sizes for different applications. They are worth the cost.
 
T
MoombaRdr said:
Check out gripstuds.com I am on the same studs second rear tire, did not loose one off the rear last year and studs are still in good shape. They work great on all the slick wet roots and trails around here. There are many sizes for different applications. They are worth the cost.
Click to expand...
Those look pretty good and I think Bryon was telling me about them. I think I'm going to go the car stud route first and see how that works out. I'm concerned about slipping in the rocks with the more aggesive studs. They sure look like they wiuld hook up though.
 
I did lots of research into tire studding and based on the terrain up here (at most 2-4 inches of snow, combined with frozen ground, rocks, not much ice riding or heavy snow) had auto studs put in a set of tires (Kenda trackmaster rear and front is a Budd's creek) for the winter and they work awesome, as the tire wears down they also get more effective. I tried ice screws but they wear down really fast and it's a pain to be replacing them. These are supposed to last a season or two. A buddy of mine has Trellobergs and those are awesome, but pricey..
 
The Gripstuds are a very good option, when the knobs start to fail just screw them out and put them in the next tire. The screw resembles an ice auger and stays in very well. Sheet metal screws are no good for trail riding loose them all the time.
 
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