• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 449 stalling when hot

C

coleman1495

Husqvarna
A Class
Okay so I am the not so proud owner of a 2013 TE 449. The bike for the most part runs good (except for dead throttle from time to time). Unfortunately I have run into issues when the bike is hot.

A few days ago I went on a ride through a tight forest area. It was a fairly hot day (~27C) and I was seldom able to get the bike out of first gear. Initially the bike was fine but after around 10 minutes the bike started stalling. I had to constantly give the bike throttle and pull in the clutch in order to keep it running. I continually had to keep restarting it and had to get out of the woods ASAP. Once I got back in the open the bike had no problem and returned back to normal (more air passing through the radiator allowed the bike to run cooler). It occurred to me that I have never operated the bike in such a tight area before and therefore never experienced this problem.

The coolant level on the bike is fine. The electric fan is working. The bike will idle when parked although the idle RPM is significantly increased. Operating the bike is nearly impossible though. You have to rev the heck out of it to avoid stalling. Combine that with the fact that first gear is stupidly fast (Did the geniuses at BMW ever demo this bike anywhere but a pretty little test track in Germany? How is going 20km/hr in first gear okay? Arghh!) The bike usually lugs pretty well in first gear but wont when hot. I am assuming that the bike should be capable of operating in these conditions.

I searched the threads for a solution and am not sure what the best course of action is. The bike so far has the race jumper installed and the stock muffler has been decatted. I was thinking of maybe removing the secondary butterfly or getting a PCV. What do you guys figure? Has anybody else found that there Husky does not run worth a darn when its hot?
 
Removing the secondary butterfly int he EFI system takes care of the dead throttle 100%.

As for the hot issues I have never had that so dont know. Maybe your temp sensor is bad or going bad and causing it to fault into limp mode or something.
 
I had a similar experience recently. I was in tight woods for 20 min (1st gear), warm day. The bike's idle speed in neutral went to an unusually low level (when hot) causing a couple of flameouts which I hadn't had in months since 2nd butterfly removal and rich low RPM with PCV. Once I got out of those woods, problem didn't reoccur. The only thing I did was but up the idle to 2100 when I got back to the truck (and my laptop). Don't know if that is the cure or not since I haven't been in a situation like that since.

Sooo, sorry. Don't really have an answer.
 
It is possible you have a faulty second butterfly motor that is failing when hot.
The butterfly shaft has a cam on the other end the lifts an idle arm on the first shaft to control idle.
Two things could happen if this wasn't operating correctly, the dead throttle you deasribe & also if closing too far at idle it won't lift the primary shaft AND choke off air causing a stall.
Also, as noted by those of us who've had 'dead throttle', the ECU does not record a 'Fail' on the dash for feedback faults on the second butterfly.
Just a theory for what its worth, but I think that will be it.

Get it hot & with the plastic cover off the cables, watch the idle arm action. When working it does tiny little movements correcting idle.

You'd either explain what you find to your dealer & hope they replace it if it's dead or pull out the butterfly and idle arm roller & set the idle with the brass screw like the rest of us. :)
 
I am not sure about adjusting the idle though. The bike would idle on its own while stationary but was almost impossible to drive. It would stall as soon as I let the clutch out unless I was revving the piss out of it.
 
Ok, that IS different. :)
Go through some basics, check the plug isn't burned.
It's possible one of the temp sensors is malfunctioning, either coolant or air temp. If you have a multimeter, check the readings of both.
With the eninge cold, they should be almost the same.
I would also check the butterfly shaft is turning as mentioned above, as it is the thing that controls your idle from original.
It's been mentioned elsewhere, the coil earth wire can fracture, it's the wire on a bolt at the top left of the cyl head, that could cause the spark to come & go.
 
What exactly does the coolant temperature sensor do? I am thinking that its sole purpose is to turn the cooling fan on when the coolant reaches a given temperature. If that's true I cant see it making any difference to the engine parameters (considering my fan is working).
 
coleman1495 said:
What exactly does the coolant temperature sensor do? I am thinking that its sole purpose is to turn the cooling fan on when the coolant reaches a given temperature. If that's true I cant see it making any difference to the engine parameters (considering my fan is working).
Click to expand...


The coolant sensor signal is normally used to richen & lean out the mixture according to engine temps by adding or subtracting time of the injector pluses (I.E. act like a choke when cold, run lean when hot)
Again, usually, the fan is turned on by a signal from the ecu through a relay.
I don't have access to my pdf manual to check atm, but pretty sure this is how the TE's are.

Air temp sensors do the same thing, colder air is more dense, so you can add more fuel to it & keep the mixture ratios correct, hot air less dense so leaner mixtures are needed.

If one of these sensors is sending false readings, it might be lean/rich when it shouldn't be....

The signals are between 0 & 5v, if a sensor plug has moisture in it, this will also change the readings.

Hope that helps :)
 
Okay I just wanted to give you guys an update. I did the following:

1.TPS reset

2.Evap Canister removal

3.Flushed out the coolant. This is where things got interesting. I actually took one of the coolant hoses off to remove the valve cover in order to check the valves ( another fun story). Anyways the coolant was black as burnt oil. It had an almost sandy grit in it. Anybody ever seen this? I am going to check to see it the sandy crap is magnetic. I flushed the radiators out with a garden hose and refilled with fresh 50/50. The bike came to me from factory with coolant already in it. I even did my own PDI on it. I never thought it could be contaminated.
 
The factory fill coolant in my bike was 'off' when I got it too. My own bike was old stock, 2011 bought 2012, it was all brown & smelt terrible from when I picked it up.
Changed & flushed it & using Nissan coolant the same as my Navara ute.
Going well for me, no over-heats in summer despite day up over 30deg C.
 
hi all,well full titanium arrow system fitted now (with quiet tip fitted) bike has gone from never stalling to flame outs approx. 5-6 times a ride(always at the worse time possible). thought this would happen(but thought I'd have to try it) as much less back pressure. so I would think its probably time to get a pcv? unless any other suggestions? exhaust sounds great certainly not loud at all but I suppose I could reduce the exit diameter more to give more back pressure? by the way anyone who hasn't pulled the second butterfly out should really give it a go as it makes a big difference to sharpening throttle response(bike was hopeless in technical going before as revs built up to slowly).
 
richie lee said:
hi all,well full titanium arrow system fitted now (with quiet tip fitted) bike has gone from never stalling to flame outs approx. 5-6 times a ride(always at the worse time possible). thought this would happen(but thought I'd have to try it) as much less back pressure. so I would think its probably time to get a pcv? unless any other suggestions? exhaust sounds great certainly not loud at all but I suppose I could reduce the exit diameter more to give more back pressure? by the way anyone who hasn't pulled the second butterfly out should really give it a go as it makes a big difference to sharpening throttle response(bike was hopeless in technical going before as revs built up to slowly).
Click to expand...


I had my 511 running amazing. Map 3, JD tuner, BF removal, slip on muffler. Ran fantastic. Had a ZipTy modified for racing full system here for a long time and finally got it installed. Then I had issues. Did not want to idle and had a bog and a flame out. No back pressure. I wanted a spark arrestor anyway so I pulled the insert and JB welded a spark arrestor cone type screen to it and put it back in. Ran better but semi same issue. Then I played with the brass screw on the side on the EFI body and got it dialed to perfection.
 
PCV has a lot of adjustability & would help.
You might also try adjusting your TPS voltage a little higher than stock to richen it up along with the brass screw adjustments Moto mentioned, should cure it.
 
Separate the AC generator wires from the bundle and route them separately to the rectifier/regulator behind the steering column ... mine is fixed now runs awesome.
 
Is your bike still running ok ? I have the same issues (although when it's hot, I need to leave it to cool). Has separating the generator wires fixed it (for sure) ?

Did you end up changing either of the air or water temp sensors ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top