• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 511 Yoke Torque Specs

Cosmokenney

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Just pulled the forks to put in new springs. Now I can't find a torque spec in the manual. Nearest I can find is the general section of section X in the workshop manual. I'm assuming the yoke bolts are M6? So the general section says:

Steel screws on brass, copper, aluminium M6 6.5 Nm 0.65 Kgm 4.8 ft/lb

Doesn't 4.8 ft/lb seem a little light?
 
Not really I think 4.8 would be about right and 11 for the uppers? I recall I followed the XTRIG specs for my clamps (aftermarket husky clamps) as I have double the bolts.
 
"If any play is detected, adjust as follows: - Remove the saddle; - Loosen the steering head tube nut (1); - Loosen the two bolts (3) that secure the fork legs to the steering head; - turn ring nut (2) on steering tube clockwise using the suitable special wrench, until obtaining correct clearance; - tighten the steering head tube nut (1) to 8-9 Kgm. (78.4-88.3 Nm); - Tighten the four bolts (3) on the steering head to 22.5-26.5 Nm (2.3-2.7 Kgm)"


The picture shows 3 as the triple clamp bolt. That seems high but possible.
 
Honestly as long as the top is tight and the bottoms are not TOO tight. You want them to flex and give in a crash in my exp. Also the lowers tightened too much will cause stiction and wearout the sliders and stuff. I dont think any bike has much tension on the lower clamp bolts. That is why aftermarket clamps have more surface area and several bolts (3 or 4 even) to clamp lightly but snug.

Sorry I cant be of more help!
 
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