The Old Husky
Husqvarna
A Class
I read a lot about the "Cagiva" Te-610 clutch problems, 2 problems, in short: #1 hard to get in neutral or not to get in neutral at all and #2 motorcycle want to ride away when clutch is pulled fully.
There has been mentioned a oil change solution that work for some, but not for others.
At my year 2000 model, kicker version, i noticed something remarkable i want to discuss here.
#1: When the engine is cold, there is nothing wrong at all. While the engine idles and the motorcycle stand still, it is a breeze to find the neutral and goes as smooth as a Japanese bike.
#2: When the engine is cold, there is no "want to run away" when the clutch is pulled, even with only two fingers. The clutch is as smooth as what is was used to with Kawasaki, Yamaha and Honda motocross and offroad bikes.
When the engine heat up, the problems increase with the temperature of the engine.
When the engine is heated up about half way, the problem is also half way. Neutral is harder to find, but with lifting the shift lever a little up, and slipping the clutch with a little rpm, it can be found relative easy. The "run away" effect is mild and easy to control with one foot on the tarmac.
When the engine is at his normal working temperature, all this problems are at the fullest. Neutral cant be found with any method, And the machine try to run away strongly. It is a battle when standing for a traffic light. Hit the rear brake, pull the clutch handle all the way to the handle bar with all fingers and rev just above idle make it somewhat easier, jet still unpleasant and with the very dense Dutch traffic a kind of dangerous too.
My TE-610 is very reliable in this. He does the same pattern of behavior time and time again. So, at least in my case, this might be a problem with parts of the clutch that fit to tight and create the problem when they expand by the heat of the engine. But which parts? Or all parts included the housing?
Other news is that i found out that a brand of after marked issued clutch plates for a 2000 TE-610, also for a Kawasaki 500cc enduro build around the same era. I will dive into that. If that is the case it must be possible to use Japanese build genuine Kawasaki clutch plates into the TE-610. Japanese motorcycles are well known for their precise and outstanding quality clutch.
There has been mentioned a oil change solution that work for some, but not for others.
At my year 2000 model, kicker version, i noticed something remarkable i want to discuss here.
#1: When the engine is cold, there is nothing wrong at all. While the engine idles and the motorcycle stand still, it is a breeze to find the neutral and goes as smooth as a Japanese bike.
#2: When the engine is cold, there is no "want to run away" when the clutch is pulled, even with only two fingers. The clutch is as smooth as what is was used to with Kawasaki, Yamaha and Honda motocross and offroad bikes.
When the engine heat up, the problems increase with the temperature of the engine.
When the engine is heated up about half way, the problem is also half way. Neutral is harder to find, but with lifting the shift lever a little up, and slipping the clutch with a little rpm, it can be found relative easy. The "run away" effect is mild and easy to control with one foot on the tarmac.
When the engine is at his normal working temperature, all this problems are at the fullest. Neutral cant be found with any method, And the machine try to run away strongly. It is a battle when standing for a traffic light. Hit the rear brake, pull the clutch handle all the way to the handle bar with all fingers and rev just above idle make it somewhat easier, jet still unpleasant and with the very dense Dutch traffic a kind of dangerous too.
My TE-610 is very reliable in this. He does the same pattern of behavior time and time again. So, at least in my case, this might be a problem with parts of the clutch that fit to tight and create the problem when they expand by the heat of the engine. But which parts? Or all parts included the housing?
Other news is that i found out that a brand of after marked issued clutch plates for a 2000 TE-610, also for a Kawasaki 500cc enduro build around the same era. I will dive into that. If that is the case it must be possible to use Japanese build genuine Kawasaki clutch plates into the TE-610. Japanese motorcycles are well known for their precise and outstanding quality clutch.
