• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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TE449 Rear Brakes Seized

56on449

56on449

Husqvarna
AA Class
I was out for ride in the desert yesterday and just starting to get the hang of terrain when my rear brakes seized. I was lucky to be riding with a mechanic who was able to free up the breaks by opening up the bleed valve and releasing some air, a little fluid and using a pry bar to push back the pads, but we were unable to get the brakes to work again. I now can not get the rear brakes to bleed. I think the master cylinder has quit working. I am wondering, if anyone else has had this problem?
 
Sombody else might need to chime in here, but if your brake fluid get's moisture in it, it causes the fluid to expand faster when hot. This will cause break lock up. Even if this is not the case fluid needs to be changed on a regular basis.
 
HuskyTaylor said:
Sombody else might need to chime in here, but if your brake fluid get's moisture in it, it causes the fluid to expand faster when hot. This will cause break lock up. Even if this is not the case fluid needs to be changed on a regular basis.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, I don't think it had any moisture, but it certainly was hot and has not being changed, bike only has 1500 kms on it. I will check the manual to see what it recommends in regards to changing.
 
Same fluid has been in my bike since new. 08 TE450 Ride in all different weather and temperature. Hot day yesterday on a DS ride, first time I ever had my brakes fade out from over heating. I have heard if they do you will need to change out the fluid. Have you ever had them do that and never changed the fluid?
 
PALMER84ONE said:
Same fluid has been in my bike since new. 08 TE450 Ride in all different weather and temperature. Hot day yesterday on a DS ride, first time I ever had my brakes fade out from over heating. I have heard if they do you will need to change out the fluid. Have you ever had them do that and never changed the fluid?
Click to expand...
No, my brakes have always being good till now, this is the first problem I have had.
 
PALMER84ONE said:
Same fluid has been in my bike since new. 08 TE450 Ride in all different weather and temperature. Hot day yesterday on a DS ride, first time I ever had my brakes fade out from over heating. I have heard if they do you will need to change out the fluid. Have you ever had them do that and never changed the fluid?
Click to expand...

Same OEM fluid for me too, AND today I boiled the fluid in the rear, trail-braking in tight single-track, lost the brakes for 10 minutes until the fluid cooled, then rear brake was back again, same as always. Palmer, amazing it happened to us both within a day!
 
Not 100% as per your issue but ...

My brake has done that locking trick ... The fix was to change the fluid ...I had boiled the brake numerous times before when riding and for whatever reason, it boiled and locked up completely one day ... You can change the fluid by using bleeder valve and pumping a little out at a time ... a little wasteful here but this method will keep air out of the system ....

-------------

That master cylinder is nothing much more but a plunger with an o-ring or two in there ...

What do you mean by the cylinder will not bleed now?
 
ray_ray said:
Not 100% as per your issue but ...

My brake has done that locking trick ... The fix was to change the fluid ...I had boiled the brake numerous times before when riding and for whatever reason, it boiled and locked up completely one day ... You can change the fluid by using bleeder valve and pumping a little out at a time ... a little wasteful here but this method will keep air out of the system ....

-------------

That master cylinder is nothing much more but a plunger with an o-ring or two in there ...

What do you mean by the cylinder will not bleed now?
Click to expand...

When I open up the bleeder valve and pump the brake pedal nothing comes out. When pedal is full compressed there is no brake at all. Piston in master cylinder must be stuck, I think. I am not really any good when comes to wrenching.
 
56on449 said:
When I open up the bleeder valve and pump the brake pedal nothing comes out. When pedal is full compressed there is no brake at all. Piston in master cylinder must be stuck, I think. I am not really any good when comes to wrenching.
Click to expand...

It may just be air in there ...Maybe try forcing fluid back up from the caliper side ( back bleeding) to the master before you tear into the cylinder ...
 
ray_ray said:
It may just be air in there ...Maybe try forcing fluid back up from the caliper side ( back bleeding) to the master before you tear into the cylinder ...
Click to expand...

Thank you for the info, I will give it a try and let you know what happens.
 
ray_ray said:
It may just be air in there ...Maybe try forcing fluid back up from the caliper side ( back bleeding) to the master before you tear into the cylinder ...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip but, it did not work, not sure if I had a good break bleeder it may be different or not, But Bike is still under warranty so I will wait till I return to the north in a few weeks and let my dealer have a go at it.
 
The bleeders are not like automotive bleeders. Be sure to close the bleeder with the brake pedal depressed, then let the pedal up. Pump it a couple of times, hold it down, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, repeat until the system is bled.
 
Dirtdame said:
The bleeders are not like automotive bleeders. Be sure to close the bleeder with the brake pedal depressed, then let the pedal up. Pump it a couple of times, hold it down, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, repeat until the system is bled.
Click to expand...
Thanks, but I have done this repeatedly and can not get it to bleed, simply nothing is happening when I depress the pedal.
 
If you don't have enough free play in the rear brake pedal linkage to the brake master cylinder when you let off the rear brake it won't allow the pressure seal to uncover the internal vent which allows the fluid to return to the reservoir. It will let the brakes pump up and not release, then when you release the pressure via the bleeder it won't allow the master cylinder to intake another stroke of fluid to get pressure again. Maybe the adjuster came loose or the brake pedal hit something slightly bending something. Another option is the previously mentioned vent hole in the MC has a chunk of crap it it or a internally damaged brake hose.
 
If you can't get it to bleed and everything is moving fine take the banjo bolt off the caliper, clean it real good and stick it in the rear brake reservoir. Make sure it is completely submerged and run the lever until you don't see bubbles in it any more. Keep it submerged all the time. Then while trying to not loose any fluid reattach it and then bleed it. Sometime you have to do this as there is so much air in the line it will never build pressure and allow you to bleed it.

I have tried for hours to bleed them before with no luck, did this old trick and 5 minutes later it is working. It is messy but works.
 
My brake bleeding technic is as follows:
1. make sure master is toped off.
2. clear hose on bleeder and clear bottle of 1/2 inch of new fluid.
3. depress brake peddle five or more and hold.
4. release bleeder and tighten.
5. repeat.
The object is to get fluid into the clear line and keep it sealed like a syphon. If that no worky then get a bleeder kit that actually sucks the fluid through the system. 25$ at most auto parts stores. Main thing to remember is keep fluid in the master, or you will suck air and be back at square one.
 
PALMER84ONE said:
My brake bleeding technic is as follows:
1. make sure master is toped off.
2. clear hose on bleeder and clear bottle of 1/2 inch of new fluid.
3. depress brake peddle five or more and hold.
4. release bleeder and tighten.
5. repeat.
The object is to get fluid into the clear line and keep it sealed like a syphon. If that no worky then get a bleeder kit that actually sucks the fluid through the system. 25$ at most auto parts stores. Main thing to remember is keep fluid in the master, or you will suck air and be back at square one.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I think this may be my next option, I think its off to the auto parts store tomorrow.
 
I had to remove the rear caliper from the axle and raise the caliper high to get the bubbles to go up. Then it worked.
 
Check to see if any free play between pedal and plunger.
If not thats the probable cause and reason it won't bleed out, plunger up to high in the stroke.
If so you were riding with the brakes on then when they get hot they lock up.
Also going up in altitude will pressureize the system.
Later George
 
lankydoug said:
If you don't have enough free play in the rear brake pedal linkage to the brake master cylinder when you let off the rear brake it won't allow the pressure seal to uncover the internal vent which allows the fluid to return to the reservoir. It will let the brakes pump up and not release, then when you release the pressure via the bleeder it won't allow the master cylinder to intake another stroke of fluid to get pressure again. Maybe the adjuster came loose or the brake pedal hit something slightly bending something. Another option is the previously mentioned vent hole in the MC has a chunk of crap it it or a internally damaged brake hose.
Click to expand...

Awesome post man! You nailed it, Problem fixed 3 minutes after reading your post. Thank You
 
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