• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE510 E-Start/Kick Start Jamming

psmura

Husqvarna
AA Class
Need some help from guys that have had experience with early model TE's. My bike is an 06 510. Last fall I was having a bit of trouble with starting toward the end of the season, over the winter I realized my battery was shot and replaced it. This spring I tried getting the bike started and it was real tough, backfired and quit. The e-start would just click and the kicker was locked up.

I removed the magneto side cover and turned over the engine with a socket, now it all moves freely including the kicker. Put it back together and tried starting it and the same thing happened. This time I pulled in the manual decomp and touched the starter and the kicker freed again.

I now pulled my valve cover and checked my valves, the exhausts were tight so I re-shimmed them. Put the bike back together, new gas, new plug and it fired right up and died. I eventually got it running and it was making a clanking noise and died. Kicker is locked up again.

I decided to keep it locked and try tearing down to see if I can find where it is binding up. I pulled the starter and it looks good. I am able to turn the small gear in the hole there, free wheels one way and then locks right up in the other direction. I basically left it like it is for now, not sure where to look next. From some research I see that it is common for the sprag clutch to go or the starter gear?

As a note my oil drain plug was pretty hairy looking with small pieces of metal, looks like a gray paste when removed. I didn't see any large pieces of metal or anything. I am assuming that it has something to do with the starting system. Before this problem the bike ran great, only has about 3700 miles on it.

Any insight on where to look next would be greatly appreciated. This is my first husky and first 4-stroke race bike. I hear that the auto-decomp can be a big issue as well. I really don't want to have to bring it to an independent shop if I can diagnose the problem myself. No husky dealers around me (2hr drive).

Thanks
 
I would pull the large clutch cover and inspect the kick start area. It would be helpful to know the model year.
 
Brought the bike to a reputable Indy shop and they diagnosed it as being the bottom end. I had them check the clutch side and everything looked good. I'm super disappointed in this bike wish I found that this was a weak point on 510s before I bought it.

So I need some input from guys that have done the rebuild. I have confidence that I can do it myself but what is the cheapest it's been done? It's an 06 with roughly 5500kms. It's a real clean bike but I doubt I can get more then $3k out of it fixed.

Give me input guys, part it out, buy a used frank assembly, rebuild with new? Go buy a used 450... Go buy a new KTM, say fuck it and buy a DRZ :(
 
Put a new rod and main bearings in it and you should be good. It doesn't have to be major expensive if you do it yourself. I would just have the crank pressed by a professional.
 
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