• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Te511 supermoto - what do I need....and is it a good idea....

Surfjunkie197

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have been riding my te511 in the dirt for over a year now. Love the bike, long trails, moto track, jumps, fire roads, climbs, amazing fun.

minus a few minor issues - main gripe is no engine braking when bike is really hot (2 hours riding) and it pushing me into corners. Tried the brass screw, get it right and still does it when hot...solutions appreciated.

I am also looking for supermoto wheels for this as riding more on mx tracks at moment and will have this as a supermoto and longer ride bike.
1) Does this bike stock make a good supermoto with the kyb front forks?
2) What sprockets should i run - only want to change the rear ideally. Be only riding twisty roads to work, no motorway / freeway stuff
3) Brakes - do I just need a calliper spacer and new front disc - braided hoses?

Would I be better buying an smr and getting dirt wheels? as will use this 75% on road and maybe track...

Any insight would be appreciated.

Cheers Mike
 
minus a few minor issues - main gripe is no engine braking when bike is really hot (2 hours riding) and it pushing me into corners. Tried the brass screw, get it right and still does it when hot...solutions appreciated.

This effect should happen all the time. It is something in the ECU designed to reduce engine braking. It can't be tuned out. Drove me nuts at first but am getting used to it.
 
This effect should happen all the time. It is something in the ECU designed to reduce engine braking. It can't be tuned out. Drove me nuts at first but am getting used to it.
I adjusted the idle/air bypass screw on mine the second I got off the bike after my first ride. No more feeling like I'm being pushed into corners, roundabouts etc. when you let off.

Surfjunkie, never had an issue with engine braking after setting the screw, even after 3 hours of riding, albeit this is all road riding, not offroad. Stock gearing on my SMR is 15/43.
 
Well maybe I need to play with mine a bit. When I initially asked I was told it was supposed to do that.
 
I like that feature, feels like a 2 stroke.

So do the rpms drop when you let off the throttle and its freewheeling “like” an auto clutch/ slipper clutch? Like the rear wheel is not churning the motor? Is it mechanical or just that the rpms don’t drop as rapidly so you don’t “feel” the effects of engine breaking- like a hanging/high idle would?
 
I have been riding my te511 in the dirt for over a year now. Love the bike, long trails, moto track, jumps, fire roads, climbs, amazing fun.

minus a few minor issues - main gripe is no engine braking when bike is really hot (2 hours riding) and it pushing me into corners. Tried the brass screw, get it right and still does it when hot...solutions appreciated.

I am also looking for supermoto wheels for this as riding more on mx tracks at moment and will have this as a supermoto and longer ride bike.
1) Does this bike stock make a good supermoto with the kyb front forks?
2) What sprockets should i run - only want to change the rear ideally. Be only riding twisty roads to work, no motorway / freeway stuff
3) Brakes - do I just need a calliper spacer and new front disc - braided hoses?

Would I be better buying an smr and getting dirt wheels? as will use this 75% on road and maybe track...

Any insight would be appreciated.

Cheers Mike
IMG_0846.JPGHaving a blast on my te511 with the economy kit from Epic in Colorado. I went with stock brake size so all I have to do is change wheels and chain.
 
I went with the Warp 9 kit on my TE449. I wouldnt go any bigger than a 44T rear sprocket unless you want to ride on a go-kart track. 42 seemed to work good for me. The stock springs are a bit soft and if youre gonna get a little silly you may want to go up in spring weight and get the valving re-done. I didnt mind it the way it was. The Wapr 9 kit comes with everything you need. You just tell them what size rear sprocket you want and you also pick what rear rim width and hub color you want. If you want to go wider or ride a little more serious, spend the little extra and get a 5" rear wheel rather than the 4.25".
I would recommend you go to a high temp brake fluid. I wouldnt worry so much about the caliper size. It will work.
Another issue with the Warp 9 kit is the axle spacer. They claim that there are a couple different hub sizes and the spacer they sent me was not wide enough. You may need to get one machined. That really irritated me when i got the wheels but for the price you can buy them..sometimes you deal with crap. Spend more and you probably wont have some of these issues.
Finally..you will need to get a universal enduro magnet to install on the brake disc so your speed sensor picks up the wheel, as Warp 9's kit does not have the magnet thread on the caliper mount in the right spot. Go figure. Maybe they have corrected it by now but I doubt it. All said and done, the wheels are a good price and not a bad build quality so I dont mean to scare you away from them. photo (3).JPG
 
I've been racing the 449 platform in SM trim for two years, a TE511, and two TC449. The TE suspension is garbage for supermoto racing way to soft, however the TC is much better. Both are fine for a track day here and there but not for racing. The 50mm marzocchi forks are the best and they are what I'm running this season and love them. Other than that the rear will take up to a 5.5" wide wheel with no issues and a 16.5" rim up front has worked the best for me. I've had many Pros on my bike and when they get off all of them wish their bike handled as well as my 2013 TC449. I went with a Ohlins rear shock and love it despite the price. Also a slipper will help a ton too. Most of that is a bit over kill for a track day or two, but I run almost every week and all the upgrades have been well worth the money. Let me know if you have any questions. I have a ton of supermoto spare parts too if you have any interest let me know.
 
Im running warp 9s on mine. Havnt had to touch the spokes.
Just resprung my setup to suit 100kg. Alot better than standard.
Ive just gone to a 14F & 42R sprocket. best combo!

Better going TE than SMR, easier for the front brake conversion.
 
I love the warp 9 conversion on my TE but the forks are way to soft, thou they are set to duel purpose rather than tar. I wish I could have it both ways.
 
I went with the Warp 9 kit on my TE449. I wouldnt go any bigger than a 44T rear sprocket unless you want to ride on a go-kart track. 42 seemed to work good for me. The stock springs are a bit soft and if youre gonna get a little silly you may want to go up in spring weight and get the valving re-done. I didnt mind it the way it was. The Wapr 9 kit comes with everything you need. You just tell them what size rear sprocket you want and you also pick what rear rim width and hub color you want. If you want to go wider or ride a little more serious, spend the little extra and get a 5" rear wheel rather than the 4.25".
I would recommend you go to a high temp brake fluid. I wouldnt worry so much about the caliper size. It will work.
Another issue with the Warp 9 kit is the axle spacer. They claim that there are a couple different hub sizes and the spacer they sent me was not wide enough. You may need to get one machined. That really irritated me when i got the wheels but for the price you can buy them..sometimes you deal with crap. Spend more and you probably wont have some of these issues.
Finally..you will need to get a universal enduro magnet to install on the brake disc so your speed sensor picks up the wheel, as Warp 9's kit does not have the magnet thread on the caliper mount in the right spot. Go figure. Maybe they have corrected it by now but I doubt it. All said and done, the wheels are a good price and not a bad build quality so I dont mean to scare you away from them. View attachment 32679


Im thinking about getting some factory race wheels for my te511, there a 5.5" rear. Did you have any issues with this width and setting it up?
 
Well maybe I need to play with mine a bit. When I initially asked I was told it was supposed to do that.


It is supposed to do that but it can be fixed.

My TE449 did not do it most of the time & then would do it at the worst time, like into a corner full of trees.
I've been riding big-bore 4 strokes for a while & really wanted it to engine brake like one.

You can remove the idle roller from the primary throttle arm with no ill effects as per the pics below.

You might not want heaps of engine braking for motard use though....

stud-jpg.39390


stud-final-jpg.39389
 
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