• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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TE511 Woes Continue- Thoughts?

Avejoe

Husqvarna
A Class
2012 TE511 with 1,700 miles. I really want to like the bike, but the stalls and flame-outs are making the bike all but unridable.

I bought the bike with 70 miles on it. It came with an FMF pipe, power-up plug, disconnected O2 sensor, and Zipty reflashed ECU (5-15-13). I've done the TPS reset countless times. The bike continues to stall and flame-out constantly. If I don't rev it off idle it will die every time. It does seem to be getting really hot, but I've never heard the fan kick on. Ever.

At lower idle speeds the bike coughs and surges. Under throttle it works fine. Slow technical riding? Forget about it.

Can this be cured? At this point, what's a few more $100 bills? I just want it fixed.

Thanks.
 
There is clearly something amiss. I do not believe it is a rogue bike. Take it to a qualified bike tuner who can do a proper engine diagnostic and then re calibrate. They are good bikes, I feel you have been given poor service/advice. Good luck and keep the faith.
 
An easy test for the water temp sensor mentioned above is test the resistance across the 2 pins of the sensor cold. Mine reads about 2.5k ohms at 15deg C & runs well.
You can also check the reading from the air temp sensor & compare the two. They should be close to the same.
 
I found on my bike, it was very fussy about the TPS idle voltage & idle screw settings.
The basic factory idle voltage is 0.7v. Most of the people that responded when I asked were set less than that (leaner) at closer to 0.6v.
Makes quite a difference.
 
my bike used to cough and spatter in tight singles ....

two bike shops and one Secondary TPS sensor later it is almost ok.
Yes the Fuel injected bikes stall easier when hot. Especially just after getting over the log or around a tight corner in lower idle speed.

Huskylove here on Ch also had issues with his bike and changed the Temperature sensor .
I just got my new Sensor today and will install today.
My low idle speed is set at 2000rpm. Adjusted at the brass screw. This will help in tight stuff. Plus my finger does not leave the Clutch lever at all. Usually clutch is always slightly pulled in slower tight stuff.
I have installed the Midwest Mountain Clutch lever which is awesome.. wouldnt go without anymore.

with installing the Temp.sensor i do have a little bit hope to get it better but i also know there is now complete cure for it in tight stuff when the bike runs hot.

In tight stuff i do , the fan runs Constantly and only switches off on a short quicker track. But i do have the second fan as the first one had a broken wing.
Check your fuse and cable. With the fan always running the cable are hard and did come loose in the plugs etc.

Blown fuses i only had once.

I ride with a few mates and the lets call it " flamming out " in low idle is a common problem with EFI bikes in slow moving tracks especially with many obstacles.
Just this weekend i was out with a 350 KTm guy and he had the same issue and installed not long ago a Rekluse which he said helped him. He also races the 350 in Enduro races.
Another friend bought a 450 Honda EFI after he came from a Carburettor bike. His Honda is ridicules bad with it. No cure for him so far...

XR 400 rider who bought a used Berg 350 has the same issues but less then all of us.

For myself , i also Geared the Bike down to 13 teeth on the front and 50 on the back. This makes it more responsive in the ST but the topspeed is only 100-110 km/h . But does not matter as i hate going more then 1km on open stuff.

The Flamming out was a little bit better in the tight stuff with the Akropovic Stock muffler. But the throttle response and low end Power was shit. So i went back to FMF Muffler.

See how you go... keep us Updated.

Stalling in my understanding is when bike runs as normal , but suddenly die's.
Flamming out is a bit like a short spatter harder engine run and sudden stop.

Dead throttle , twist the throttle several times and suddenly no response when you twist. Only is you release throttle and twist again.

Thats how i experienced it. .... Butterfly removal cured that.
 
My stalls were a big cough back through the inlet when the throttle was opened.
Never happens anymore, past history thankfully :)
 
2012 TE511 with 1,700 miles. I really want to like the bike, but the stalls and flame-outs are making the bike all but unridable.

I bought the bike with 70 miles on it. It came with an FMF pipe, power-up plug, disconnected O2 sensor, and Zipty reflashed ECU (5-15-13). I've done the TPS reset countless times. The bike continues to stall and flame-out constantly. If I don't rev it off idle it will die every time. It does seem to be getting really hot, but I've never heard the fan kick on. Ever.

At lower idle speeds the bike coughs and surges. Under throttle it works fine. Slow technical riding? Forget about it.

Can this be cured? At this point, what's a few more $100 bills? I just want it fixed.

Thanks.

I have for the first time gotten the courage to tackle obstacles like logs and ledges. I can also, for the first time, loft the front wheel when going down hill in preparation for a drop-off. I haven't had a single pop-cough-die type of flame-out on the last three rides. How'd I fix it? PowerCommander V + Autotune. And I've been through almost every connector and put dielectric grease on them.

I have a FMF PowerCore on my bike. I could not ride the bike on any technical terrain. Simply transitioning from downhill to uphill caused the bike to flame-out. I can't tell you how many times I had butt-pucker inducing flame-outs when my front wheel was up on an obstacle and I couldn't get my foot on the ground and the drop off the side of the trail was 150 feet down. :eek:

I tried to remedy the situation in this order:
1. Flash the ECU with map #3. Made the bike run the same or worse. (I personally think I got the wrong ECU back in the mail. This is not a bash -- shit happens, I know).
2. Add a JD Tuner. This helped. At first it made a little difference, but I found if I bumped the Accelerator Pump feature up to almost maximum, I could loft the front wheel on occasion without a flame-out, but the bike still ran very hot, lean surged at constant cruising speed and would still randomly flame-out just when you didn't want it to.
3. Pulled the Secondary Butterfly. Not sure this did anything for the random flame-outs. But it did add noticeable punch to the low-end and instant throttle response.
4. Iridium Spark Plug. Does nothing for flame-outs, but the bike handles California E15 gas much better.

I'm seriously impressed with the PowerCommander. I feel like I can hit any obstacle now. In fact I don't even think about flame-outs anymore. :banana:
 
Any thoughts on a quick source for a coolant temp sensor? I have a KTM and BMW parts counter close by. Is there a parts cross index?
 
Most dealerships should have those in stock. I think they are like $15 or so. If possible, your 511 needs to be hooked up to a HST to see if there are any flags. Eventually you will need a pcv and possibly an autotune combo in order to make the bike run at it's best.
 
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