• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Testing a stator on an '08 TC 510

Paul S

Husqvarna
A Class
We are beginning to suspect a weak stator could be the cause of my starting problems. I just don't want to spend a lot of money on a new one if I end up being wrong, therefore how do I test the stator with a multi-meter to determine if it's shot?
 
Find the three wires that come out of it. With the bike running, the AC voltage should be the same across all three legs.

In other words if the three wires are red blue green, your test results should be

red blue 30v
red green 30v
green blue 30v

Note that I just typed 30 volts, I have no idea what the spec is. It shouldn't matter as long as they're all the same. You won't have a "weak" stator. It either works or it doesn't. This test will tell you which set of windings has failed, if any.
 
The problem is that we can't get it started to test it running. Would you know what the resistence values should be?
 
When the stator went on my '09 TE250, I was reading .8 ohms between two of the leads, but infinite resistance (i.e. open) between either of those and the third lead.
 
When the stator went on my '09 TE250, I was reading .8 ohms between two of the leads, but no resistance between either of those and the third lead.
What were the symptoms? Was it not starting at all or was it sometimes starting. When my bike starts it runs without an issue, but if I shut it off I may end up kicking it all day. It seems that everything must be perfect for it to start; if I miss that opportunity I will be kicking a long time. I have a feeling that kick starting doesn't produve enough spark to light it up. I have a Rekluse auto clutch in it so I can't try bump starting it to see if that would ignite it.
 
In my case, it just wasn't charging. I had a new battery and it died on me out on the trail. That got me to investigate it and find it to be the stator. There was no visible damage or burnt coil, so I'm unsure why it died. Broken winding somewhere, I would guess.

If the battery is weak, yeah, I would expect starting difficulties because of FI. That's one of the great things about the '13 I bought. It'll run on a dead battery, as long as you kick start it. It has a capacitor to build up enough charge to run the fuel pump.

Actually, I just realized, your problem is with an '08 TC, so no fuel injection. I wonder if it's something to do with the timing, which (if I'm not mistaken) is triggered by a small coil, if it's like my '09. It detects the raised metal nubs on the outside edge of the flywheel.
 
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