• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Tricks and tips

suprize

suprize

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Got any neat tricks and tips for running these bikes? just add them to this thread.
There are a number of "standard tricks "everyone does but i will list the ones i know for those new to the fold

. when refitting front wheel, leave all the bolts slightly loos and bounce everything around to centre the bolts before tightening it all up.

. with the wheel/axle nut, spin the wheel backward before jamming the brake on and then do the nut up without letting the brake off.
. make sure you secure the front brake cable to the fork leg with a zip tie or clamp to prevent it bowing into the front tyre on compression.

Always silicon the pipe to barrel join and the muffler to pipe join and leave for 24 hrs before use. Holds together remarkably well.

Make sure you loosen the top triple clamp and tap it down if you have tighened the head race bearings.

i mix a bottle of 10 wt and 5 wt to make a shandy of 7.5 wt for the forks which suits me at 83Kg's

Thats all i can think of for the minute...feel free to add .... im keen to learn more
 
never had a drama with nylocks and some threadlocker. sometimez i add a second nut for a spare if enough thread sticks about.
 
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