• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Type of cylinder hone preferred

B

Bill Orth

Husqvarna
A Class
For deglazing a cylinder, what is the preferred type of hone--a ball hone or the three-headed grinding stone variety? I imagine either would do a decent job of cleaning and cross-hatching the cylinder, but it seems the ball version would do a better job of smoothing all the port edges, whereas the stone variety would sharpen them. Opinions?
 
A flex, or ball hone will do a fine job without accidentally taking out too much material. Stone hones are best for getting final clearance on a freshly bored cylinder.
 
As far as I know your suppose to chamfer the edges of the ports ? Lots of this stuff on you tube also, I guess the amount of material would tell you the answer.
 
I have spent 1/2 my working life doing engine reconditioning and I would NEVER use a ball hone on a two stroke.
The bore on anything should be round and the ports on a two stroke should have a small chamfer to stop the rings catching.
A ball hone will give you a bloody big chamfer just like a worn out two stroke.
 
I was just thinking that myself. I have only used the ball hones I got from an old shop on my Suzuki 850 when I replaced the cylinders. I did not like the idea of the balls springing into and out of the ports
 
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