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Ugh, Fuel Pump Hose

jtemple

jtemple

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I'm trying to do my valve check, and the last thing I need to do to pull the fuel tank is remove the hose from the fuel pump. The repair manual says this:

"Disconnect the hose (13) connecting tank to throttle body; press down the ring (14) and disconnect hose (13) from pump (12)."

There's a 90 degree elbow connecting the fuel line to the pump. The elbow goes into the main body of the fuel pump and there's some kind of retaining ring holding the elbow in. (#14 mentioned above). I can't figure out what "press down" means. I've pressed in all sorts of directions and this thing won't budge. Any ideas?

I have attached a pic of the manual diagram.
 

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It looks like it should be pressed towards the pump, but likely you've done that and probably pressed it while holding back the 90º elbow. Doesn't look like the type of release the FI bikes have had in previous years.
 
I got it. You push it toward the fuel pump. It's actually easier to disconnect on the throttle body side.
 
Now I can't get the valve cover off. All 4 bolts are out, but something (I think inside) won't let me pull it off.
 
My friend, a dirty old KLR owner (he's dirty and old, not the KLR), is making me mention that he had to help me with the fuel pump coupling. :D
 
Oh, and I'm also asking him to come help me with this stupid valve cover. I need my bike back together ASAP, there's a group ride coming that I want to attend!
 
valve cover

Since you have the new 630 I don't think anyone would know for sure since it is different than the 610. However, if it is like the other dual overhead cams then there should be only those four bolts as per the maunual "Remove the spark plug (5), the four cylinder head cover fastening screws (6) and the cylinder head cover." Good luck.
 
I got the valves checked. It was just the 4 bolts, like the other DOHC bikes. Here were the problems:

1. The cam-chain side of the gasket had gasket sealer on it. There's nothing in the shop manual that says the sealer is required. However, just to be safe, I put some on when I re-installed the cover.

2. Once we broke the seal, the cooling fan was getting in the way. I have OFG radiator guards, so removing the right rear part of the guard was necessary to get the valve cover off.

3. It's a pretty tight squeeze under the radiator hoses. So much so, that I seriously considered draining the coolant to pull the hoses and get them out of the way. With two of us working on it, we managed to get the cover out and back in without having to drain the coolant.

My valves were all in spec at 600-ish miles, FWIW.
 
I actually broke the little plastic ring shown in the attached photo. It still works, the ring just falls off when you disconnect the hose. There are no leaks.

That's what happens when a bonehead like me tries to pry the ring away from the pump instead of pushing it toward the pump like you're supposed to.

I have talked to Hall's about it and the only way to fix it is to replace the entire fuel pump, which is $400. I think I'll just leave it alone and disconnect it from the other side from now on.

It's too bad you can't tap it out and put your own fittings on, like the metal fuel pumps on the other models.
 
jtemple said:
I got the valves checked. It was just the 4 bolts, like the other DOHC bikes. Here were the problems:

1. The cam-chain side of the gasket had gasket sealer on it. There's nothing in the shop manual that says the sealer is required. However, just to be safe, I put some on when I re-installed the cover.

2. Once we broke the seal, the cooling fan was getting in the way. I have OFG radiator guards, so removing the right rear part of the guard was necessary to get the valve cover off.

3. It's a pretty tight squeeze under the radiator hoses. So much so, that I seriously considered draining the coolant to pull the hoses and get them out of the way. With two of us working on it, we managed to get the cover out and back in without having to drain the coolant.

My valves were all in spec at 600-ish miles, FWIW.
Click to expand...

What is the valve clearance spec? Also you mentioned that you had the service manual. Is that still available and if so where?
 
jtemple said:
I got it. You push it toward the fuel pump. It's actually easier to disconnect on the throttle body side.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip. I gave up trying to figure it out so I've been unhooking it from the brass fitting, but it leaks gas everytime.
 
jtemple said:
I actually broke the little plastic ring shown in the attached photo. It still works, the ring just falls off when you disconnect the hose. There are no leaks.

That's what happens when a bonehead like me tries to pry the ring away from the pump instead of pushing it toward the pump like you're supposed to.

I have talked to Hall's about it and the only way to fix it is to replace the entire fuel pump, which is $400. I think I'll just leave it alone and disconnect it from the other side from now on.

It's too bad you can't tap it out and put your own fittings on, like the metal fuel pumps on the other models.
Click to expand...

So is this of no help to you ?
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/fuel-pump-plastic-elbows.1165/

thinking.gif
 
I just checked my valves too, at 1500 miles they were perfect! It was easier than I expected, first I try to run the bike out of gas or at least until the fuel light comes on (less spillage), then disconnect the fuel line at the throttle body not the tank. Once it's off remove the right side radiator bolts so you can push it forward for the extra clearance you need to get the valve cover out. There was a little factory sealer on the gasket but if evertything is clean and you keep it stuck to the cover you can re-install it with no sealer. I never used sealer on my 450's either and they don't leak.
 
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