• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Valve Clearance Check 2012 TE 310

dratharr

dratharr

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi,
I thought I should check the valves on my TE 310, last time I checked them was at 20hrs, and it now has a little north of 100hrs on it. Intakes were .006 left, .007 right and exhaust were .009 left, and .008 right. According to the manual they should be .006 intake, and .008 exhaust. I hate to pull the cams and adjust because they are .001 loose. Most of the 4-strokes I have owned have a variance for valve specs, this bike doesn't. What do you think should I swap some shims or leave them alone?

Thanks!
Dratharr
 
I personally wouldn't touch them unless you're starting to notice a change in performance. Seems too small a variance to worry about. From what I've read, shims come in .05mm increments which equals .00196 in. so you'd be grinding shims to get it right.
 
Thanks for the reply, that was my first inclination as well. I just can't believe how little they have moved in that amount of time. I wish the prior 250F bikes I have owned had as solid of a valve train that this bike has. I just keep the air filter clean, and fresh oil in it, I was thinking about upgrading this spring, but now I think I will keep it another year or two. I keep waiting for something bad to happen but 100hrs, and nothing bad yet other than the initial starter problems, a leaky slave cylinder, clutch plates, and a stripped oil drain plug. This bike is as rock solid as any bike I have ever owned. And I don't ride it on the street at all other than connecting trails. I looked at a new 350 EXC last week, nice bike for sure but I don't think it would handle like my Husky does in the tight stuff, that is what I love about this bike it handles like a 250F, but it has a little extra oomph for good measure.
 
That's what I love about my 250. It just "Felt right" from the moment I put a leg over it. It has gobs of power. I had a chance to try a 310 a couple of months ago but didn't because i knew I'd want one!
 
jumping in here instead of starting another thread....

i have just checked my valves @ ~2000kms/70hrs. both exhaust sides were 0.006 and the intakes were 0.004 & 0.005 so all are a little tight. just wondering peoples thoughts if i need to shim them or are they still close enough? bike still runs well as far as i can tell. im tempted to leave them for other 15hrs or so but not sure what damage i could do.

thanks
 
I would say you're good to go. You'll read that many people with xlite bikes will tighten left side exhaust up to help with kick starting. I think .005 is a little tight and .006 is still tighter then stock and I would leave it alone.

per the shims. Most motorcycle dears, I use a Yamaha dealer, stock a hotcams shim kit. It's important that you bring the mic you used at home with you to the shop to check the shims.They do vary and you can always find an off sizes so you don't need to round up or down.

If the shop says you can't mic the shims before you buy I'd go to another shop. The shops near me charge around $3 -6$ so call around or buy a kit.

Joe
 
Mine were way loose. .008 on the exhaust valve and .014 and .020. No wonder it was hard to start. Now back to spec.
 
Anyone,

Are the valve clearances different between the TE's and TXC's? TXC manual says .15 intake .20 exhaust? Mines a '13 TXC. Or is it the year that causes the variance?

Anyway I agree with Dratharr why isn't there a range for these clearances? Every bike I owned before there was always a range? Has anyone talked with a trusted shop that can give some idea of acceptable tolerances?

Kevin
 
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