• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Valve cover breather hose venting?

need2boat

need2boat

Husqvarna
AA Class
Bikes a 2012 310TXC.

The previous owner rerouted the valve cover breather hose up and over the head then down the frame with the other overflow lines. The issue I'm having is oil blowing out and gathering under the engine pan. I find when I run the bike for 3/4 hours it blows out a good deal of oil.At first I thought I had a leak. Checked, and checked and found it was the vent.

I find it worst when I stop right after running it hard.

Just wondering if there are better ways to deal with the line. Does zipty make any collectors. Just wondering what other are doing.

Joe
 
So he set up the breather like the old bikes?

Is there no hose on the oil drain plug?

My 2010 blows oil out at high RPMs too
 
Your breather bottle is built into your frame. If you open up a parts fiche, you can see how the hoses are routed oem. This would be the safest and best way to run your vent lines.
 
Tinker,

I looked over the bike and the diagram. I also now noticed he caped the line from the air filter. So if I'm understanding this correctly the vent from the valve cover goes into the frame, but when then does it go. . . does it connect up with the airbox. Should I replace both lines. . . The bike is running well so I always hesitate to mess with it. Note I said RUN, starting is anther story. :D

I pull the tank this week when I get zipty metal replacement so can rerun one or both the lines if need be.

Joe




Vent.jpg
 
Rich yea. The guy was racing the bike and I'm guessing he figured running the lines through the frame was robbing it of power. I on the other and don't possess his ability to push the bike to the max and therefore would rather trade some of this theatrical power to prevent the pooling of oil. i also feel on extended rides the amount of oil it's blowing out is quite high most likely because there is no back pressure and it can get to the point I'm worried.

Joe
 
I would leave the airbox plugged and route it like the TC shows. Head to frame, frame to open. Should not dump oil and will never dump oil into your intake.
 
That system doesn't work that way. Husky tried to drain the oil back down to the head and it was a huge mess.
 
Needs to be setup like this.
Instead of the hose going to the bottom of the engine, you can add our drain back kit and reroute it to the fill cap which is safer.

310oilreturn.jpg
 
Oil in these engines is especially hot, much more than the 449. If the oil vapor isn't cooled, it makes quite the mess. Vapor that isn't collected in the frame as well as fuel vapor can be easily re-burned.
 
Tinker I'm not really crazy about adding that drain back into the engine. It's not that I want to spew it into the environment but it just seems like a PITA. Can I just vent the head as you've shown and leave it at that or will oil start draining out the other hole.

Also can I leave the air intake blocked off or are you saying I need to add that back as well?

Joe
 
Heat rises....hot oil vapor rises...cools....condenses then dribbles out. You need to use the frame as a catch can and do the oil drain back. Best way to go....
 
need2boat said:
Tinker,

I looked over the bike and the diagram. I also now noticed he caped the line from the air filter. So if I'm understanding this correctly the vent from the valve cover goes into the frame, but when then does it go. . . does it connect up with the airbox. Should I replace both lines. . . The bike is running well so I always hesitate to mess with it. Note I said RUN, starting is anther story. :D

I pull the tank this week when I get zipty metal replacement so can rerun one or both the lines if need be.

Joe




View attachment 43279
Click to expand...

I run mine the same as the tc250 and yes at the end of the day there is oil on the skid plate. Nothing the pressure washer can't clean off.
 
Motosportz said:
Enough to see it in the sight glass (oil drop)
Click to expand...

For me the answer would for sure be YES. I find if I fill the oil to the top of the sight glass I loose more at the start then it slows down but over the course if a full enduro I loose at least 1/3 and I'm not leaking or burning it. If I'm just out for a few hours no big deal.

So I guess I'd like to go back to the stock way but I'm still not crazy about the banjo bolt idea as they normally aren't used where continued removal is needed.

what about having the oil go back into the other side of the valve cover? That would seem like it's more out if the way.

Joe
 
So with other issues now under control. I decided to bite the bullet and order the zipty revises drain back and hopefully regain some of the lost oil. Was told they should ship out next week.
 
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