• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Vintage modifications

jo360

Husqvarna
AA Class
Thought this might be a good idea put together an easy reference point for the various mods that we have carried out to improve/fix issues with these old bikes, would imagine there are quite a few on this site already.
 
84 dls front brake. there is a good method for arcing the shoes to the hub on here and adding a tab to the main lever is also recommended for more lever feel. ditto with the clutch (phil at husqvarnaparts has them).

when reassembling front forks, don't nip up the bottom bolt until the tubes are fully collapsed in the sliders to centre the damper rod in the sliders.

zip tie the front brake cable at the fork swiper to prevent it folding into the tyre and launching you into outer space.

let the air out of the forks on a regular basis.

there is a start
 
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2015-11-30 11.44.19.jpg2015-11-30 11.45.19.jpgbottom roller attached to brake pedal bolt and frame, I measured the chain tension in the same way as pds with the shocks removed, the choke lever is from an old carb and actuated the decomp valve.
 
I like the idea but this is going to be 20 pages and 20 year and 9 different model mods and updates
to actually be able to find anything in a few months this needs to be referenced
 
I think a check list for looking at old sh*tboxes and trying to work out what you need to do and if you should buy it. I always find I get carried away with looking at the bike and don't actually see any problems till ive paid and got it home... then see that half the spokes are missing or there are no seals in the forks etc...a simple list would be a good idea. a mate just bought an old two door falcon and I went to look atit and I walk in the shed and go "bit of hit in the back quarter there..." and he is just devastated as he hadn't seen it even after spending three hrs going over it before buying....had the stars in his eyes....
 
Good idea a sort of what to look for thread model/years covered.mines a bitza so keeping things original was not an issue and some times good to share a solution, also helps if you have an abundance of parts, ebay is great for locating cheap parts but most are ex usa and I hate waiting for the post to arrive.
 
I always put in new tubes with new tires. New air cleaner, inspect the carb boots for cracks, new husqvarna needle n seat in the carb the high flow one. Clean the carb, lube the slide with straight two stroke mix. All new wheel bearings, new piston n rings, crank bearings, seals, gaskets, new fork seals, fork oil. New grips, new cables, bark busters. New seat cover. Check the brakes. Fix the chain roller system. New chain and sprockets
 
pull the brakes to bits and carefully grease (with waterproof grease) the pivot pins for smooooth operation. also lube the cables and grease the lever pivots to assist in the best operation of brake and clutch functions...amazing how quick all that stuff binds up with out noticing it till you either grease it or ride someone else's bike!
 
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