Warm TE 449 engine stalls when given throttle

[Steffe]

My TE449 engine stalls when it´s given some throttle. The weird thing is that it works great when cold, and until i have driven for about 6-7 miles. After I take a 10min break it works for about 1 mile and then the problem starts. It idles well but when I release the clutch and want to get going, and give it some throttle, it stalls! Almost like the throttlebody let more air in, but the injector doesn´t feed the engine with fuel..When revving in neutral the engine hesitates at first after which it revs up. But as soon as I apply some "stress" to it it dies!! Adjusting or removing the JD-tuner doesn´t help. Anyone had the same problem??

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Get the bike to operating temps, and then get it to stall. Hit the kill button and then hit it again to put it in Run mode. Listen for the fuel pump to prime. It should make the same whirring sound that it makes when the bike is cold. Familiarize yourself with how the pump sounds when cold so that you can detect if the pump is straining or priming slower when hot.

 

[jtemple]

Is the power up kit installed?

 

[Biggziff]

One of the TXC310s I drove last weekend acted a little weird like this. If you blipped the throttle it would die. The Husky guys said it had been remapped so maybe there is some correlation there?

 

[MikeB]

I just had a similar problem with my TXC310 ... mine would start and idle fine but missed and stumbled upon giving it a little throttle - and then would rev out. I thought it must be fuel related but it turned out that the Ballistic battery was fine at rest but had an intermittant open circuit when it vibrated.

I found it with a voltmeter across the battery terminals - when the engine missed the DVM spat out lower readings - as low as 9.48v. (the fuel pressure also got jumpy when the bike was missing - because the power to the pump was switching off and on.)

 

[Steffe]

Yes, the power up kit is installed. If i open the loop to put it back in "standard mode" the problem is still there. The stalling is so "total" I had to "walk it" out of the woods yesterday in first gear on idle! Have to check the fuel pump and the fuel pressure this weekend and maybe have it checked by the dealer next week...

 

[Huskynoobee]

Wow, thats a new one. Lots of people report flame outs, and I never had a problem, until last saturday. I went for a 100 mile dual sport ride and it was just ripping along like always. Then I took it on a five mile off road loop and it just died in corners twice. Then it wouldn't start unless I gave it some gas right away after it popped. Lots of folks swear by the JD tuner, but I have always been happy since I'm only running stock exhaust and race map II.

First it's off with the smog can now that it's out of warranty. Then if it still does it then I guess I'll finally have to throw some cash at it. Guess the first 500 miles were all free smiles. How many hours/kms do you have?

 

[Steffe]

On faster trails it has been working fine until now. I´ve had that problem with flame outs since new when driving in more difficult terrain demanding lower speed and constant clutch slipping (mostly rocks and ruts). I have put it down to my lack of skills and an unforgiving engine! The JD tuner, and slightly rising the idle speed, has helped a little, but it is nowhere near as smooth and forgiving as my old reliable WR450F -04...Unfortunately the WR feels like a bus compered to the Huskys ballerina-type abilities on rocks and tight stuff.. Maybe the Husky needs a heavier flywheel and slightly shorter gearing?? But first I have to get to the bottom of this fault that this thread is about.
Does anyone know where I could get hold of something like a Workshop manual for this bike?? The Finnish importer told me there isn´t one. All info goes via the factorys server and consumers aren´t welcome there!

 

[spud1968]

On tight rutted woodlands my 449 will flame out. Ive a jd tuner and fmf pipe with 13/51 gearing and going to a 53 for my next ride. My bike has a habit of flame out about 10 miunutes into a race this could because its not quite warm. Ive tightened the intake manifold clamps from the efi to engine. One test ive carried out to see how the low rpm responds to a quick blip on the throttle is allow the bike to run hot and the fan starts to run then blip the throtte whlist the fan is running at about an eighth of throttle - 10 SHORT QUICK BLIPS NOT IN GEAR. see if you can get the engine to stall because mine does. Having the jd tuner set at anything over 2.5 on the green will at some point on open ground the bike will cut out for no reason. This is a one off cut out but annoying. I run my green setting on 1.5 and it doesnt cut out anymore unexpected. Now, this may sound very controversal......i think the efi needs a finer spray of fuel in the cylinder heasd my thought is the efi is dumping big dollops of fuel and a finer spray would allow for better fueling at low rpm. This is why my jd tuner is running the bike better with less fuel then standard at low rpm. Unless your world class having a 449 full throttle all the time is never going to happen. The 449 for me should be able the trials ride and then scare the pants of me when at full throttle. Honestly the trials riding the efi needs attention.combut thats my view. I see on fleebay a 12 hole inje tor for a 449 but its not a plug and play i think it would need a different ecu.


Does anyone know if the 2013 449 as a different injector nozzle?

 

[schoops]

On faster trails it has been working fine until now. I´ve had that problem with flame outs since new when driving in more difficult terrain demanding lower speed and constant clutch slipping (mostly rocks and ruts). I have put it down to my lack of skills and an unforgiving engine! The JD tuner, and slightly rising the idle speed, has helped a little, but it is nowhere near as smooth and forgiving as my old reliable WR450F -04...Unfortunately the WR feels like a bus compered to the Huskys ballerina-type abilities on rocks and tight stuff.. Maybe the Husky needs a heavier flywheel and slightly shorter gearing?? But first I have to get to the bottom of this fault that this thread is about.
Does anyone know where I could get hold of something like a Workshop manual for this bike?? The Finnish importer told me there isn´t one. All info goes via the factorys server and consumers aren´t welcome there!

Pretty much exactly what I experienced. Also would always stall on a trailing throttle into corners. Could never really get it tuned out with a JD tuner so in the end I bit the bullet and bought a Power Commander V and had it dyno tuned. Man the standard map was way out. Has made a huge difference not just with the low-end stalling but there was a big slump in the mid range that has gone too. Re the workshop manual, there's a thread here somewhere with a guy that's posted them on a share site. (if you can't get it I have a copy I can email you, it's just too big to post here)

 

[Steffe]

Thank´s Schoops for the tip about the WSM! Off course it would be on this site!! Too easy to even think about it!! What a great forum this is! But i´m not so impressed with the finnish importer of Huskys!!

 

[spud1968]

Just spoke to a guy who races the 449 with the power commander. He said a standard 449 runs very rich at the low revs including the 511 and then lean mid to top end. According to the jd settings the unit came with we would be richening up the low revs even more. Im going to try green/blue 1, green 1, the pump at 3, yellow 3-4, red 4.

 

[schoops]

I've attached one of the maps I had done for the PCV. It's tuned with the Husky race map and an FMF powercore muffler (no dB killer). If I'm reading it right mine was a tad lean on idle, then pretty lean off about 5% throttle/3750 rpm - where all the flame outs, stalling into corners was happening, then very lean from mid range on (peak power about 8500rpm). I've posted the dyno charts on the following thread if you're interested (although they are with the dB killer in - but not a huge difference): http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2011-te449-dyno-results.25421/#post-228978

 

[Steffe]

Made the TPS calibration as discribed in another thread, and it seemd to cure the stalling on idle and very low revs, that the bike has had since new! So propably that´s one funamental problem solved! But the cutting out after driving 10km or so still continues. Today it worked better than ever untill it started cutting out, and not responding properly to throttle..Also misfired in the exhaust.. The search continues! Does anybody know if there is some way to read fault codes without the official tester?

 

[Andy Simpson]

Appreciate it's been a while (over 2 years) but I have same problem and wonder if you ever got to the bottom of it ?

Help appreciated, great bike when it works otherwise.................

 

[Steffe]

Hi
Yes it´s been over two years, and unfortunately i didn´t see it through untill "the end". When I picked it up the last time from the Husky dealer ower two years ago, he told me that now he has fixed the problem (something with the TPS calibration). "I took his word for it" and emmidiately traded it in for a new Honda CRF250X. I couldn´t take the fact that a new bike has such problems with reliability. The Honda now has a little over 150h on it and it hasn´t missed a beat! Just normal maintenance. Not perhaps as exciting as the TE, but good enough for me. And since we don´t have that much open terrain here in Finland, the 250 is fast enough. .
Hope you find the solution.

 

[Dangermouse449]

Before you spend up on tuner boxes, have your TPS base idle voltage looked at.
A lot of bikes voltages are lower than the factory setting of 0.7v. More volts = richer mixture.
My own bike is happiest at 0.8v.
It would be a shame to spend money on a tuner to richen up a setting that is adjustable.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-manually-setting-tps-using-test-leads.43940/

Also, there are a few reports of failed or failing coolant temp sensors. It may give good readings cold, but no good warmed up. They are inexpensive to try also.