• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Water Pump Impeller

RTM

RTM

Husqvarna
B Class
As some of you might have read on here my 88 WR250 seized a few weeks ago. This evening2013-09-19 19.43.13.jpg I pulled the cover off the water pump to find that the impeller had moved up the shaft about 5mm and was rubbing against the volute you can see the vanes have worn away a little bit.


Is the impeller knackered? would this be the root cause of my seizer? can I buy a replacement impeller? is it supposed to be locked in position via some sort of clip?

Any words of wisdom please.
 
We have plenty in stock. The impellor is held on by a small circlip in the barely noticeable groove!

The pump cover should be dowelled in position using 2 hollow dowells. Check out the flatness of the cover too as they are usually over-tightened and are no longer flat. All the parts are in stock and I have just knocked back the price of the cover as I have found a few more. They are not cheap - but neither is a seizure!

Hope this helps
Andy Elliott
 
Forgot to say that the good news is that it looks like you have a nice Aluminium clutch cover - not a magnesium one! We are in the process of re-modelling the 6 spring L/C clutch cover prior to a production run. Don't expect any for a little while though...

Andy
 
Thanks Andy that was an amazingly quick response. I think the cover is still in good shape, I'll definitely place an order tomorrow for the impeller and clip.
 
If you have a forged piston running at clearances for a cast mahle one that would be the root cause. I have boiled over but never seized it takes some common sense to shut it off for a while or get out of the woods and run down the railroad tracks or a road instead of trail with bikes all over the place waiting their turn to use the only sensible line. There is a small clip not sure your impeller has slipped on the shaft as I think I can see where the clip goes. The bearings can allow the assembly to move out and the way the crank and water pump shaft wear might have a wedge effect. I bought an impeller for $10 from Halls maybe four or five years ago due to the dog getting to it (all my spares were pretty similar to the one you put a picture of) but the housing and the shaft were not for the budget crowd. I think they want like $35 on some places now for those impellers.
 
Hi Frank. The piston in the bike was a Mahle (just been and double checked) and I bet it was the original. I'd only just got into my second lap of the hare scramble (8 mile loop) and hadn't really opened the bike up at this point. The bike had not boiled it didn't even lose a single drop of water, however I did put an o'ring under the rad cap seating seal that very morning as the rad cap was leaking so the boiling point would have been a few degrees higher than normal. There are four clear points of seizer, very very light, just enough to nip the ring at each point. Surprised it had sufficient friction to rip the liner out but it did.
I have pushed the impeller back to it correct position in the photo above. about 4 or 5mm.
 
Rebuilt the engine today with new piston into a used but re-bored liner. Using the original water pump impellor but now with circlip. Re routed the hoses so that there are no pinch points although it still touches the expansion pipe - freaking ridiculous who ever designed such a system !

Ran it gently around a field and then stopped and blipped the throttle to check water circulation. All seems good, the rads are hot at the top and radiate heat over their length. So all good. Still not 100% convinced I have found the cause of my seizer. Gonna check the timing tomorrow.
 
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