• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Which grease is best ?

Rossik

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm about to start replacing bearings (wheels, swingarm, steering head) and was wondering what you recommend I buy in the way of grease.
 
Great, thanks for those tips guys, think I'll go for the BelRay stuff then.......

I've also read that some guys use that copper paste, when and why would I use that ?
 
I can't tell you about the copper paste.

I doubt those three things you mentioned are really in need of special high quality grease it is more in how the grease holds up going through mud puddles and the like. Probably some military grade stuff is best but the tub is fine and no sharp edges. I bought a tube of water proof from John Deere labeled as such but havn't dedicated a grease gun for it so it is unused surely some agricultural stuff spends higher percent of time in wet that bikes in this section.

The wheel bearings I pry off the seals and pack more grease in than they come with. On a used bearing I would remove both seals wash in solvent or just wd40 or similar and blow air through it. I kind of doubt too many folks on here are going to be getting so muddy the whole inside of the brake area is full like I found one time years ago. Not sure if it is applicable but on my modern stuff sometimes I take the wheels off, remove stuff pry out a seal and let air out until say thursday after a sunday event.

The swingarm bearings for the bike in your avatar have one seal and are a special length. Or maybe just end up a special length. I had a bearing shop run that number once and they told me it would have been a special run. Most are either no seal or two seal. You have plenty of room on that bike for a longer bearing. The mono shock bikes are another matter. The hemi joints on the shocks are pretty important. Try and keep grease out of the hole the bolt goes in on the top mount. On of them, I think the left one can have a tendency to unscrew itself.
 
Thanks fran...k., I got all my new bearings from Andy at HVA Factory so I'm good to go in that department. I am just about ready to start to reassemble my bike, which is in bits at the moment and I am so anxious to get it done to finally ride it.
And maybe wisely or not, I want to use it for MX mostly......so for sure it will get muddy but reality is that it probably won't see as much real mud submersion action as you do on any given enduro event.....
 
Belray and amsoil are also my favorites. For suspension linkages I use Belray mixed with anti-sieze (copper paste) about 50/50. It seems to work well lasts, and my days of replacing linkage bearings are gone. Cam.
 
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