• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

WR 250 88 forks

RTM

RTM

Husqvarna
B Class
This afternoon I drained my forks on my 88 wr 250 and filled them with approx. 470ml of 10 wt oil. Removed the springs compressed the forks and measure roughly an oil level 180mm from the top.

The problem is they still feel incredibly un-damped. I have an 83 Cr250 which feels much slower in comparison. It might be right thou as it is an endure bike after all.

What do u lot think?
 
If you have the 40mm forks the nylon dampening washers need to be replaced. If you feel they are still too fast run a heavier oil, (15-20wt.)
 
they can be quick in the initial stroke as they are designed to take up all the little roots and rocks and ruts to save beating you to death on a long ride. but as above, the damping washers are nylon and fail at any excuse so drop rhe sliders off and check the washers out. any crimping or squashing, ditch em. they are cheap so replace them both to make sure!
 
The Evo forks 40mm conventional (1985 - 1988) not the U.S.D. White Powers are quite a bit more sophisticated than the earlier fork.

Thus, what was the top out washer in the 82 - 84 fork does not perform the same function. The damping is all done in the lower part of the damper rod / leg. Firstly dis-assemble and check that the alloy cone that floats outside of the damper rod is the correct way up and has not found its way to the bottom of the fork damper (I had this happen recently) If it has you will have no rebound damping. These forks need thinner oil than the 82 - 84 fork, I run 7.5w in the summer for enduros but go to 10w if you must as a maximum. If the fork spring is pre-loaded more than 25mm this will also feel like the rebound damping is being 'pulled - out' of the fork I run mine with a 220mm air gap with the fork compressed and the spring out. This leaves plenty of room in the fork for the oil and spring on full compression. Oil level is a lot less critical in these forks as the valve in the very bottom of the fork will always be under oil. There are 3 lengths of top out spring depending on MX or Enduro variants and they are 65mm long in the Enduro fork and that is the one with 35mm below the wheel spindle and chrome legs that are 715mm long.

Also, when you re-assemble the forks - do up the bottom bolt with the fork completely compressed, as the bottoming cone may rub against the damper rod if you dont.

The MX / XC legs have more underhang and generally 25mm long top out springs with 750 long chrome legs.

I agree they do feel soft initially, but they do firm up nicely through the stroke, which makes them a very nice Enduro fork.

There is a picture of a sectioned Evo fork on my website. Go to www.hva-factory.com and look through the 'news' section....

Hope this helps.

Andy Elliott.
 
Started to pull my forks apart this evening. When off the bike I tested them before I drained the oil. Pogostick comes to mind.. Oil drained, bolt out and oil seal circlip removed. Tried a few slid hammer hits to part the sliders form the stanshions without any joy. So came in to look on the internet, There was a glass of wine on the table so that was the end of my garage work for tonight/
 
Got the forks apart this evening and everything looks fine and dandy. Nothing gunged up, seized, worn or broken.

At a complete loss now.
 
Make sure the small thickness cone on the bottom of the damping rods is present. I got 2 sets of those forks and 1 leg was missing that small cone and another leg is missing the taper sleeve that the damping rod seats into . 2 of the 4 legs that still had that small cone had it installed upside down. Check all assembly carefully to a printout of the parts list. HVA has excellent quality manuals to download at
www.hva-factory.com and Halls has every year at http://www.halls-cycles.com/default.asp?page=catalogs
 
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