• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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X Lite highest mileage or hours?

Redox600

Husqvarna
C Class
Hey all,
I was wondering what you "X Lite" owners have gotten in terms of mileage or hours before requiring a rebuild or having an engine failure? I have a 2010 TE250 that has been tamely trail ridden on single track and forest roads, never raced, and I have 125 hours on it. The valves have never moved and it doesn't use any oil yet.
I have been told that they have weak bottom ends and rods and am now considering whether or not to do a complete rebuild before an engine failure.
Thanks in advance.
 
I had a 2011 te310 and sold it after 130 hours. Worked perfect when I sold it. Today I have a 2014 te310 with 130 hours on it (bought it new). It works flawless and my plan is to do a complete overhaul after 200 hours. A friend of mine has a 2013 te310 with 280 hours on it. Except for mapping and other adjustments he hasnt done anything yet. The only issues Ive had is that it was a pain in the a.. to start when hot. Solved it with a li-ion battery.
 
3000+ miles and no plans for a rebuild until I have an issue requiring it. No oil burning, no shifting issues, no strange noises as of yet.
 
Have about 85 hours at about 80 had a blown head gasket so took the top end apart, everything looked good but replaced the piston rings and base gasket while it was apart, other than that its been good.
 
What type of riding do each of you do? Ie racing, desert riding, single track? Especially curious about the guy with 280 hrs without a rebuild!?
 
Got 2 of these 010 TC250s ... I'm sort of a micro DS rider as every ride starts from home on the hardtop for 3-5 ~easy miles here and then once in the countryside, it's either ST or gnarled out dirt roads ... I checked my RPM riding once and I hardly every get past 10K... in videos it's hard to tell what is happening but when I do turn the bike on in the dirt, I try to stay 7-10K on the RPM scale ... Pulls ok in that range ...

The 355 bike - Used low amount of oil day 1 when I got it at ~50hrs ... Oil usage got so bad, I changed the rings at ~300hrs ... 100% stopped the oil usage ... Bike never smoked .. Never gave any real issues due to the oil usage and if I kept the RPMs < 9K, it was alright ... But as HRS added, it was getting rid of too much oil to ride it very far before adding oil. During every oil change, the SS filter was spotlessly clean.

For whatever reason, at ~410hrs, the oil filter filled with metal shavings ... Think it is the mains as it just started making a louder and louder engine sound so I just stopped it and it is still stopped. Either it was their time or I had just found a new place to ride with alot of big ~steep fast climbs on this really sticky clay terrain ... It really loaded that 250 (maybe at 3K feet up power was down?) ... It was like on a 125 bike and I'm guessing I just finished it off there pulling the hills ... And then there is the oil angle .. I tried a new oil the same time the engine started going bad ... Highly doubt that caused the failure but it is what it is and I'll never use that oil in a 4t bike again...

Here is the 400 hr ride I posted here to show the bike was still AOK ... 9K was probably top RPM..
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXXspqWk75k
3 maybe 4 rides later ... toasted and belly-up ... I should have video ...

--

The Rekluse bike - 325hrs and no oil usage -- Current status of bike -- I rented these bikes out at one time and after a customer got off the bike one day, it used a little oil for the first time... Not sure if my customer caused this issue but he got away from me on the hardtop once ... No more customers on my bikes to date ...

After trying to verify the oil usage on future rides, I hit a rekluse clutch issue .. My SS filter ended up like this due to clutch shavings... Not sure what that SS was filtering in that shape but I think the engine is ok from both incidents. Rekluse is fixed now and I'll do a local trail ride on it shortly ... It's rained plenty lately.. New knobby day is here again.


SSFilter_Bent.JPG
Now that I have wrote all this, I think that I might have made a mistake on the rekluse issue ... This bike also always has a spotlessly clean SS filter and there were a few pieces of silver in the filter of this bike for the first oil change after the customer saga ... It might be possible the silver I saw was clutch shavings and not metal from a bearing or something causing oil usage that I had locked in on ... If this is true, I might could stopped all the rekluse stuff or at least stopped before my filter was toast. Best to put a magnet to any shavings in the filter ...
 
I have a 2010 TE250 with maybe 200 hrs. Maybe 4 enduros and a few gnarly 2 day trail rides on it.

15 or so oil changes and about 6 airfilter changes and it still runs fine.

Been thru 2 flywheels and 3 ring gear sets. 2 fuel pumps.

Valves moved about .002" requiring one adjustment.

Starts 1 or 2 kicks.

Motor is a touch louder than my 2012 with 60hrs on it.

I think the bottom ends are strong unless you are Ty Davis.
 
Got 2 of these 010 TC250s ... I'm sort of a micro DS rider as every ride starts from home on the hardtop for 3-5 ~easy miles here and then once in the countryside, it's either ST or gnarled out dirt roads ...
.. My SS filter ended up like this due to clutch shavings...
View attachment 60150 ...

wow ray_ray- did that filter collapse from oil pressure (don't SS filters have a bypass?) or during/after removal?
 
I guess all the crap from the clutch shredding clogged it while riding and that caused it to collapse ... Then the pop-off\bypass circuit was probably used but no way to know for how long... It may not have even been sealing off on the engine side and the oil was just circulating to some degree in and around the filter.

It really scared me when I saw it ... I'm riding today and will pull the cover off the oil filter and see what it looks like after the ride...
 
my te250 11 now has about 300 hrs and 6k km.. still pulling like if you have 20 crazy horses.. my maintenance intervals are very strict, every 2 or 3 rides max. Which is about less than 200km per oil change interval. Use only full synthetic oil 5 or 10 w40, always change oil filter on each oil change. I try not to revv it more than 6-7k rpm and constantly check radiator fluid level.

I normally ride on hard technical trails or cow paths.. with rocks, mud, water crossings, very bad terrain.

Original e starter works perfect, never changed brake pads, discs, sprockets, or chain. only oil, filters, tyres, lights, some electrical items such as the temp sensor, the head gasked because was having a oil leak. The worst thing I had to change was the water pump. after that, runs like new.
 
my te250 11 now has about 300 hrs and 6k km.. still pulling like if you have 20 crazy horses.. my maintenance intervals are very strict, every 2 or 3 rides max. Which is about less than 200km per oil change interval. Use only full synthetic oil 5 or 10 w40, always change oil filter on each oil change. I try not to revv it more than 6-7k rpm and constantly check radiator fluid level.

I normally ride on hard technical trails or cow paths.. with rocks, mud, water crossings, very bad terrain.

Original e starter works perfect, never changed brake pads, discs, sprockets, or chain. only oil, filters, tyres, lights, some electrical items such as the temp sensor, the head gasked because was having a oil leak. The worst thing I had to change was the water pump. after that, runs like new.


I find that very hard to understand 300hrs and original pads, sprockets and chain - that must be some mighty light duty riding! Pads on my WR are usually finished at 800Ks and decent chain sprocket 15 - 1800Ks.
 
I find that very hard to understand 300hrs and original pads, sprockets and chain - that must be some mighty light duty riding! Pads on my WR are usually finished at 800Ks and decent chain sprocket 15 - 1800Ks.

LOL, not at all.. but I cannot ride at high speeds, my terrain here is very steep and the trails I use are very technical, not using much brakes.. also, I tend to use the engine to brake too(using compression), for the chain and sprockets, they seem to be in good condition so, no need to change them yet. I am still using original air filter. On a normal ride I do about 100km. My clutch is still the original.
10649533_10154624308725444_7770595971162011907_n.jpg
 
Check your filter for metal every oil change and you should catch it before it lets go. It's rare that any engine breaks without warning unless a valve spring breaks and drops the valve... (rods rarely break without a reason like dragging piston, bad bearing or over-revving) new noises, running hotter ect. debris in the filter is usually present before anything else is noticeable. Most drag race teams that use high dollar engines check their filters every pass.
 
I had to ask my friend again if the 280 hours was right or if I heard wrong. It wasnt a hearing issue so 280 it is. The only thing he has changed is the e-starter that failed at early hours. I have 130-140hours on my own and it works better than ever. The only thing happened so far was a pretty big thing. The engine went stuck ina competition after 80 hours. Two gearbox sprockets and two bent forks. Didnt mention that above as I saw that as an unlucky thing and can happen everyone. Im so happy with the bike so Ill ride them as long as they can be found used in good shape. Also have a brand new TXC on the shelf for later.
 
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