• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

X_light check your flywheel woodruff key - E-start works!

R

R_Little

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Well I replaced the spun flywheel with a new woodruff key and the bike runs SUPER, and what's more the e-start worked perfectly all day.

The off idle studder is gone and the motor actually has power now.

What's more, the spare motor I disassembled had a folded over key as well.

This is my theory.......the flywheel slips, advancing the IGN timing which at low rpm makes it not only hard to start but as the motor heats up the ECU advances the IGN timing more until there is too much advance to push the motor past TDC with the starter. Eventually, it gets so advanced the motor starts kicking back and might even crack the case at the worm gear pilot hole like my spare motor has.

When I changed the TPS setting, it most likely retarded the IGN timing as well making it a bit easier to start as well as emilinated the off idle studder for a while, but it was not a long term solution.

Now that the flywheel is on correct the timing is correct and the e-start works hot or cold.

If you are having hot start problems check the flywheel for proper orientation.
 
I'm technologicaly challenged.

You just need to remove the stator cover and either use an air impact or a clutch holder to remove the flywheel bolt.

You will need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel. Then check if the woodruff key is folding over.

If it is okay just put the flywheel back on and tighten to 75nm-80nm. I removed the other side outer case and used my motion pro gear jammer but you can use a clutch holder too.

Replace the stor cover.
 
Very interesting...We already spun ours, 2012 TXC250. E-start would just spin the flywheel and of course it wouldn't run...

At teardown, flywheel nut was loose and key was split. Made some calls and it's possible the factory is not getting some to torque spec.

Toy Tech and Husky took care of all this and we've had no problem since...:thumbsup:
 
PA Husky, do you have a hot e-start issue? Did you ever.
I really think the slipping flywheel is at least contributing to it.
You know they creep before they spin. Mine had not spun yet bit it was 10deg out at least. I think the dealer did not tighten it correctly or the more likely the key was shearing already and he did not see it.


Advanced IGN timing WILL keep the motor from passing TDC.

The E-start on my bike starting acting up about 3 months after purchase and never worked right since.

I played with I-beat, valves, changed starters, starter gears etc with very little success. On Sauturday it worked perfectly all day and cranked the same hot or cold!

I can tell you that Husky changed the flywheel to mate better with the crankshaft mid-2010.

I just put the new style flywheel on. I hope it does not slip again.

The old 250 has a seperate E-start on the other side of the motor and it is not part of the flywheel system. The x-light system is lighter and simplier but more delicate for sure.
 
You bet there is! In fact, I shoulda done it.

If I was thinking, I would have marked a line in front of the woodruff key to see if shifts in future.

Even with the bolt off I don't know if you can see the key slot now that I have it tightened on.

I don't want to loosen mine because I put loctite 609 on it this time and I need to heat it to remove.

If you check yours mark it for sure!
 
R_Little said:
PA Husky, do you have a hot e-start issue? Did you ever.
I really think the slipping flywheel is at least contributing to it.
You know they creep before they spin. Mine had not spun yet bit it was 10deg out at least. I think the dealer did not tighten it correctly or the more likely the key was shearing already and he did not see it.


Advanced IGN timing WILL keep the motor from passing TDC.

The E-start on my bike starting acting up about 3 months after purchase and never worked right since.

I played with I-beat, valves, changed starters, starter gears etc with very little success. On Sauturday it worked perfectly all day and cranked the same hot or cold!

I can tell you that Husky changed the flywheel to mate better with the crankshaft mid-2010.

I just put the new style flywheel on. I hope it does not slip again.

The old 250 has a seperate E-start on the other side of the motor and it is not part of the flywheel system. The x-light system is lighter and simplier but more delicate for sure.
Click to expand...

R_Little, do you happen to know what they changed to make the flywheel mate better? Was it just the flywheel or were other parts involved as well? Looking at the parts fiche for the 2010 vs 2011 engine...2010 lists 3 different spacers (7.35mm, 7.50mm and 7.65mm), whereas the 2011 only lists one (7.35mm). I wonder if that's the difference? Its hard to tell about the flywheel itself just by looking at the fiche...in 2010 it was a flywheel/stator set and in 2011 you can buy just the flywheel.

And here is a stupid question....the woodruff key. Are woodruff keys pretty standard (like pick one up from the hardware store) or are they specific to the motorcycle application?

Changing the starter motor on my bike *seems* to have solved the problem, but after reading different posts on here, I've pretty much been waiting on it to fail again. It has already failed to start a couple of times by 'catching' at TDC, but it has been rare.
 
Phoenix said:
R_Little, do you happen to know what they changed to make the flywheel mate better? Was it just the flywheel or were other parts involved as well? Looking at the parts fiche for the 2010 vs 2011 engine...2010 lists 3 different spacers (7.35mm, 7.50mm and 7.65mm), whereas the 2011 only lists one (7.35mm). I wonder if that's the difference? Its hard to tell about the flywheel itself just by looking at the fiche...in 2010 it was a flywheel/stator set and in 2011 you can buy just the flywheel.

And here is a stupid question....the woodruff key. Are woodruff keys pretty standard (like pick one up from the hardware store) or are they specific to the motorcycle application?

Changing the starter motor on my bike *seems* to have solved the problem, but after reading different posts on here, I've pretty much been waiting on it to fail again. It has already failed to start a couple of times by 'catching' at TDC, but it has been rare.
Click to expand...

I did not know about the spacers. Are you talking about the spacer behind the ring gear? I guess that spaces the ring gear under the worm gear. I did not change mine but I measured my flywheel depth and it was the same.

The earlier flywheel has a taper that is relieved about 7mm from the end. The new flywheel is tapered all the way to the end so there is more clamping area. it is easy to see when you put it on the crank.
 
I'm dealing with a electric hot start problem, basically will not crank when hot, I have to kick it.
I'm now dissembling all the E-start components.
Is the freewheel teeth suppose to have a groove in it? (where the worm gear teeth mats with freewheel/ring gear)
Which way does the nut for the stator turn?
Do I need the Husky specific flywheel puller or are there other pullers that will work?
 
RailwayRog said:
I'm dealing with a electric hot start problem, basically will not crank when hot, I have to kick it.
I'm now dissembling all the E-start components.
Is the freewheel teeth suppose to have a groove in it? (where the worm gear teeth mats with freewheel/ring gear)
Which way does the nut for the stator turn?
Do I need the Husky specific flywheel puller or are there other pullers that will work?
Click to expand...

Should help with the flywheel puller question.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/flywheel-puller-sizes.24954/#post-224778
 
The woodruff key on my 2012 TE 310 sheared off over the weekend. The flywheel nut was loose. Replaced with a new key and the bike is running fine. I was surprised to read that this is a fairly common occurrence. Sorry for digging up an old thread.
 
Update. Since replacing the woodruff key, I put 2 hours on the street and 3 in the dirt before it sheared off again. The bike is under warranty so I will contact them about it this Tuesday when they open.

Basically, the design is: Starter -> Flywheel -> Woodruff key, tapered fit -> Crank
Perhaps design should be: Starter -> Flywheel -> Splined interference fit-> Crank

The tapered fit with the woodruff key is a bad recipe. If anything stretches or loosens, it's over. Once the nut is able to back off, the key shears, or vice versa. Hard to say what order it happens in.

Another possibility is that maybe the key is not clearing the slot. This would result in the nut getting tight without full contact from the flywheel to the tapered surface of the crank. That would loosen over time from heating/cooling alone, compounded by the soft metal of the woodruff deforming. Just a guess.
 
all bike have a taper and woodruff key. just these bikes rely on it to start the engine.
Not sure if you read any of these other threads about this issue but its all about how you put it together and torque it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top