• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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You can kick start these bikes? I don't believe you

millenium7

Husqvarna
AA Class
I've heard the TE510's are supposedly very easy to start, and i've heard of people saying how easy it is even with the kick starter. Well I can truthfully say that i've NEVER been able to start mine with the kick starter, not once, not ever, not even close. And I think is a symptom that's also contributing to my low throttle pop-stalls and weak performance just barely off idle (at about 1-5% throttle opening)
I've set the TPS and fiddled with iBeat fueling, currently at 124% which appears to be the best, but still it feels weak at very slight throttle opening and will often pop-stall at low rpm (after which it is very hard to start with the button)

The engine has had a full rebuild not long ago and compression is way up there. Where should I start looking? Fuel filter? Fuel pump? Partially blocked Injector? Spark issue?

I'm not very familiar with FI bikes, and I'm yet to find any pictures that illustrate whether or not you can replace the fuel filter itself. And how to properly disassemble and inspect the fuel pump
A glance from outside shows it looks fairly good but who knows? And I don't know how to properly remove it to inspect and see if its maybe come loose and the pump is not entirely being filtered.....

Any help?
 
I started a 2009 TXC510 (carby) with the kickstarter..... using my hand. Sorry I am no help.
 
Haha cheers for the vid. Yeah mines nothing like that whatsoever. I can get it to just past TDC then basically get a running jump at it and she will never, ever fire to life. I've started countless bikes, there's something wrong with this one

Whats the best way to clean the injector?
Again i'm new to FI bikes so I need a bit more to go on. Do I just soak it? Do I need to somehow make it squirt? what's the best procedure?
 
Remove the injector from the bike, spray carb cleaner into the supply side, there a screen there that can get clogged up, look at the screen before you spray and then look at it after, if its dirty, you'll see the difference.
 
On a more basic level, is the kickstarter getting a full swing? On my 2012 TE310, I could not get it to kick start. Removed the foot peg, it started right up. It needed about 1/4 inch of more swing, was hitting the peg. So, moved kick lever one notch forward, and removed some peg metal. Solved.
 
I can tell by the difficulty with e-start sometimes that swing isn't the problem. I'm sure I'll figure it out but how do you get the injector out? I'm guessing 1 or 2 screws secures it then just pull it free?
 
I have a 08 that is carb and starts first kick most times when warm. I would check valve clearance first. I"m not sure about your bike but lots of fuel injected bikes require 2 kicks to start (at least they used to). First kick to charge a capacitor and the second to actually fire the injector. This was so the engine would run without a battery. Maybe your cap is NG.
 
Ok so I pulled the throttle body, injector, fuel pump
- Throttle body looks nice and clean, I cleaned it not long ago anyway
- Injector also looks pretty clean, little bit of black soot but really bugger all on there. This screen, I didn't grab a photo of the supply side of the injector, but if there is a screen its recessed in there and pretty hard to spot. Is it removable? In which case it may be missing. Anyway the injector was fairly clean. However I hooked the supply side up to a syringe holding some carby cleaner, applied some pressure, then repeatedly tapped the battery to fire it. Worked pretty well but it looks fine to me. In any case any small amounts of black soot are now gone, it's spotless
- Fuel pump, again looks pretty good. I disassembled what I could, found the stupid reserve light was broken off again so I fixed that with a much hotter soldering iron. Pump was sitting in its slot correctly, mesh screen has no tears or damage and was properly seated. Regardless I gave it a clean. Not sure about the large plastic filter that is after the pump. So instead of trying to disassemble it I thought i'd just run the pump and see how much it squirts


I have no idea how much the pump is supposed to squirt, but that to me looks pretty good and there wouldn't be any blockages in that filter section

The only other thing I could spot is this silver thing in the fuel pump, it has nothing connected to it? Is that how its supposed to be?
IMG_20150806_004436.jpg


I havn't run the bike yet so i'll see how it goes. If there's no difference i'm not quite sure where to look next....
 
Well, good news is it actually started on the second kick! then shut off a second later as it dumped about a litre of fuel on the ground because the fuel hose blew off :lol:
Put the hose back on, gave it a kick and sure enough she fired to life
Once warmed up it refused to kick, and is still a little hard to start but nowhere near as bad as before. However throttle response just above idle is MUCH better, it doesn't feel like its on the verge of stalling. So its obviously done something beneficial, and i'd say that it's now firing more fuel and as such 124% is too much, will back it off to 115% and try again
 
Is "the silver thing" you're referring to the electrical connector, or the fuel pump intake screen (sock)?

Also - I can flail away at my TC450 all weekend and it'll never start. But if I simply turn it just past TDC and then drop my foot, it'll be running before the end of the starter stroke. I've started it with my hand before.
 
See in the middle of the picture there's a hole that looks as if a hose should fit over it. Right between the plastic pump holder, and the fuel line thats already attached. Right in the middle of the picture

And yes I know how to start 4 strokes, i've started everything from 250's to 650's and can do so far more effectively than most. In this case it was not starting, but is now after a clean (except when hot). Thinking that it might still be a little on the rich side
 
i'm actually confused as to what the heck its for, and why the whole pump assembly is so big? I mean that thing (which the grey opening appears to go) takes up about 1/3rd of the space, but isn't directly connected to anything
 
Certainly looks like a house barb. Dunno what it's for. Maybe a return?


I think you are talking about the pressure relief, when the pressure exceeds about 45 psi, the remainder comes out the relief, back into the tank.

The fuel injector screens are actually on the sides of the injector supply side inlet, the bottom is solid, the fuel flows sideways into the injector.
 
Ok the problem was certainly the injector originally, since it showed the exact same symptoms with my makeshift baffle removed. However since cleaning the injector I have been able to kick start it cold but not hot. I removed the baffle and everything cleared up immediately. Using 115/107/102 for fueling, very easy to start cold or hot with both the button and the kick starter, much smoother, can lug it right down and it no longer feels asthmatic, and holy flap does it go like hell at WOT
Too much restriction with the baffle, however without the baffle the bike is obnoxiously loud. I could maybe try another baffle but even with the baffle its still a loud bike, I don't see any way to get the thing quiet. It just seems like a thoroughbred angry race bike that will never conform to acceptable standards

Oh well, least this issue was resolved, if I have issues with any other FI bikes in future i'll be trying the same thing of fully cleaning the entire fuel system
 
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