• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

YZ/WR (Kayaba) fork conversion on a Terra

Red anodizing typically fades fairly fast, to more like pink. Thanks for the years!


Hi Kenneth, There are two different methods used to seal anodising after coloring. The Impregnation process doesn't fade and has a matt sheen/patina appearance. Versus hydration which is boiling or steaming and glossy in appearance.
In case you wanted to anodise your stanchions and triples!
 
From what i've been told.

All anodising will fade. As Paul says, the sealing method makes a difference as to how much/how quick it fades.

The base material also influences the the longevity of the anodising.
The best material for anodising is mechanicaly poorer and does not machine nicely.
The material I use for the parts is an aircraft grade and so is strong and robust with a higher corrosion resistance. But unfortunately is not the best base material for anodising.
To get the best out of the anodising the parts need to be etched in an acid bath. This will give a slight satin finish.
 
I have axle kits that will be ready in under 2 weeks. Let me know if you are interested.
I'm offering a small discount if you order now and pay up front.
You could also request a different colour(within reason) other than red or blue if you get in early enough.
 
....re-viving this thread a bit I guess.
May be buying a Terra soon. (I'm not one to jump straight into a modification unless I know all the deets, so forgive me)...
(BTW, I've contacted Aquatic already about his parts).

On the fork swap I have a couple questions:

1) What year model YZ forks should I be sourcing exactly?
2) How does this fork swap affect the sag and general geometry if you have the stock rear shock? (I'd be upgrading the shock at a later date).
 
Can't remember the year but I used yz426 forks and I think they only made it a few years.

If you don't lower the forks you will obviously lifting the front end up almost 2 inches. As far as sag, i haven't really had a chance to reset my sag. I can tell you the rear shock is not capible of keeping up with what the forks are capible of.

I would do the axle kit and put the stock wheel back on. Aquatic is the man. My bikes a rolling showroom of his parts. Top notch, and I can tell you he is an honest man who truly cares about his customers.
 
...so, what have you out there that have done the fork swap done about the shock?
Replaced it? It seems like a just adequate unit, but upgrading the forks should be balanced out by doing something to the rear.
 
I love my YZ forks ( 2000 yz 426) and yes now you can tell that the rear is not up to the same standard . I moved the adjustment screw on the side of the shock several turns to the soft . This helped but I'm checking shock options.
 
...so, what have you out there that have done the fork swap done about the shock?
Replaced it? It seems like a just adequate unit, but upgrading the forks should be balanced out by doing something to the rear.

Installed a Touratech shock set up for my fat ass. Rides nice now.
 
First thing to do is fix the root of all the bearing evil. The hole in the spindle. Which ever engineer thought that was a good idea is a fickwit!
20200327_113815-jpg.2225398


Some 3M tape and problem sorted
20200327_113959-jpg.2225405
 
Took a bit of effort but I managed to get the old bearing off without cutting it.

I couldn't find any new seals, but the old ones are still in excellent condition so I'll reuse them
New bearings - sourced locally
High temp grease - because the oil is in the frame and the neck area can get quite hot
20200327_114741-jpg.2225416


greased up bearings
20200327_115555-jpg.2225417


In the press
20200327_115801-jpg.2225419


Lower bearing installed
20200327_120317-jpg.2225420


I didn't take any pictures, but the outer races were installed in the head.
i used threaded rod and some made up spacers that fitted the races perfectly
 
A quick test fit of the forks
20200327_121317-jpg.2225426


Headlight and handle bars all back together
20200327_130113-jpg.2225427

Dummy axle just to check
 
I measured up the fork and and then redesigned the existing caliper hanger to suit the new dimensions
test-assy-png.2225461

test-assy-2-png.2225462


I 3D printed the new caliper hanger to do the test fit
Fits exactly as planned
20200403_124726-jpg.2225465

20200403_124754-jpg.2225466
 
Looking good so far.

Next item of business is to redesign the suspension knuckle to raise the rear the same as the front
20200406_004423-jpg.2225482


I'm hoping to make an adjustable unit.
 
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