125-200cc 09 Wr 125 Bog/Performance Solved?

The 6CHY16-62 is ordered get it tomorrow
And my HGS 144cc exhaust pipe is on its way home to my 2010 Wr

I have the same jetting 125/144 i think can`t remember.
Tomorrow i can give you a report about 144cc and Suzuki needle,
Getting the 144cc pipe next week.

Wow…
Help your cousin move out of their 3rd floor apartment…
Put up your mom's new garage door opener…
Install 3 new jack posts in mom's basement…
And look what you miss!

dartyppyt was one of the 1st to weigh in on my counseling thread.

He actually gave me a call and I could tell he was on a mission.

One question…
Are we assuming that the original #5 slide in the WR is the same as the Suzuki #5 slide?

One observation…
I think the problem of inconsistent low end performance is play in the power valve. By adjusting the bolt to the top of the slot some people lucked out, others didn't.

I think this needs to be right before you'll get anything consistent through jetting.

Again…observation, please weigh in…
The position of the bolt in the slot (white arrow) is irrelevant to performance. What really seems to make a difference is having the spring tangs (black arrow) contact the power valve actuating arm. I believe this alone will keep the power valve in a required closed position at low/mid rpm's until it's supposed to move.



If the bolt in the slot is adjusted so there is just a little spring tension on the actuating arm. At low and midrange rpm's this seems to keep the power valve in a tight closed position.

If your governor is a tooth off and the bolt adjusted to top of slot there still is the possibility of no tension on the actuating arm to keep the power valve in a closed position. If you can move the gray arm of the power valve up and down at all with a dead engine; I think it's wrong.

I believe the possibility of the power valve being allowed to 'float' a little causes a changing combustion chamber. The inconsistent jetting at low/mid rpm's could be caused by the valve being allowed to move before it's supposed to.

Comments…?

I left the jetting the same...but now that I'm on 50% race gas I may drop the main to 370 as it seems a little flat on top.

Getting ready to dyno your rm needle setup. I have already done baseline runs with the stock stuff; DEY15-74-4th and 3rd clip, 460 then up to 470 main and 45 pilot at 2 turns out. Slide #4. It seems lean up top even with the 470. I don't think the needle is flowing it and may try a drilled out main(very large) to see if this is the case. Going to the middle clip on needle brough up a flat spot around 6k(gained two hp) and may need one step leaner for that area. I think it may be around the time the p. valve is opening as I see this flat spot on other 125 on youtube. My bike has the orange spring in it. I need to start a new thread?

Yea, I think the rm needle is going to allow the main jet to flow more than the DEY. I do not have the rm needle yet but want to try maxing out the stock stuff for compairison. I am going to dyno power valve springs also but too many combos to try everything. The DEY needle needs the #4 slide I think it's too slow on the taper and needs the richer cut. The pilot circuit on the bike seems to affect running much higher then 1/4 or so throttle but I hope the rm needle helps that so I can go smaller pilot for better range in the woods without killing bottom end. Sad that NONE of this is required with my 05 yz125 you could run stock jetting year round OK.

I'm really glad that you are sharing this. Since I have an '09 I suppose that all I need is the needle.

gsxr1000user,

Like Dartyppyt said the orange spring will dump the PV's open too early, especially if you have the linkage adjusted up at all. Try small spring combinations with the white and stock springs. On my 144 I use the white and green spring with the linkage adjusted 1/2 way. With the 167, I use the white and silver spring with the linkage adjusted all the way at the bottom. Awsome powerband. Tight single track weapon.

Walt

Ok, I have not received my rm needle yet. I have come across something very interesting with my bike. I suspected it was not flowing anymore fuel up top when the 470 and DEY needle are being used. I did not have an mains larger than 470 so I drilled the 380 that came with the bike out with a 3/32 drill bit and it does nothing to make it richer-nothing on the dyno no blubber nothing! I had checked float level before putting the bike on the dyno and it is level with the carb surface when the float just touches the pin. This is what I found on the web for the tmx. I have opened the petcock with the cap off the bottom of the carb and it seems to flow well. Cannot wait to try the RM needle. I have a yz needle that I have tried off dyno with good results but it is not fresh in my mind(about a month ago) hope the needle is the flow restriction(spell?) Plug is not showing any color-dam lean up top and it is easy to look behind at the lack of exhaust color when tachin 12k on the rollers.

I don't feel the flat spot I am getting on the dyno to be all power valve related. The bike is lazy on and off the dyno with the stock spring. I do not have a real dip just a plateu that seems to be common on other 125 dyno charts. It came up 2hp when I leaned the DEY/470 from clip 4 to middle and I think it was still fat. If I went to 2nd leanest groove I feel the curve would be very nice on the dyno anyway. The clip possition and main jet are not changing anything up top-at least from 4th to 3rd. Have not gone 2nd to top yet as I concluded a very lean top end. If the bike is feed well the power valve opening sooner may not do anything but make it run as it should-not lazy.

125s will only look good on a dyno between 8,000 and 10,500. If you want them to look beefy elsewhere, try a smaller carb.

Or stick a 250 engine in the frame.

I knew that was coming. Forget numbers and looks. I am using it as a tuning tool that is um-by-ass-ed. POKE! The part of the curve I am talking about is compairable to other 125 machines

I will be posting graphs when I compile them(complete testing) next week I hope. For some reason I cannot seem to find how to start a new thread on this forum and feel the work I am doing and that of DARTYPPYT needle testing is worth it. May put them on youtube and send them to Husqvarna USA with a pic of my middle finger. It should not be this hard; are you listening H.USA?

Ass-oh! POKE! Post results, they will be interesting.

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just some pics it's not coming off the rollers till it is right

Thanks BillO and good humor.

Hey no problem here. I have a hide as thick as a rhino's and a disposition to match. I only wish you were local so I could bring my son's race bikes over for a run or two on the dyno. Your approach is the right one.

Thought I'd try the set-up on the TMXX. 5.0 slide won't work for me. Back to my last set up.
Main 420
needle 3rd
pilot 32.5
air screw 2 3/4
slide 4.0
elevation 600-5700ft
RUNS FINE I'm happy now!