The autotune involves welding/replacing the 12mm for a 18mm bung on your header. Not sure if I read it on the forum elsewhere but with the pcv and the 4 hole injector you may be good and not need the 12 and autotune (since you have maps that work and simple enough to plug in and adjust a few cells). Would save you a bit of cash. The autotune is pretty cool though and since the plug is such a pia to pull and read makes "jetting" easy. Get a simple map switch also so you can run two maps.
Not sure about the 12mm to 18mm as I think the standard TE310 o2 sensor is already 18mm???? Will have to check
Keep in mind that PC only adjusts fueling and does nothing for ignition timing. Usually timing gets adjusted for emissions compliance for a street legal bike. It's a frustration with these bikes that there is no way to change the ignition timing without buying a new ECU but that's how it is.
The one dynojet pulled from my 13 was a 12mm. Agree with the timing issue. Dynojet thought they could but adjust the '13 potentially but not the case and they used an existing part. Unsure if the Open Map 3 on the '13/'14 provides any advance but figured the best map as a base profile in case it did.
Ok power commander V installed, 12 hole injector installed and Dynojet autotune installed.. bring on the weekend.. Quick question, now with fuel and ignition maps at zero throttle set at zero I am getting the bike kick back through the kick starter. why??? Never done that before, always the easiest bike to kick start
Probably the difference of the 12 hole vs 4 hole. You will be the one and only with that, your stock ECU and the PCV. Let Autotune run and it will mod the table. You'll be able to provide the maps for anyone else with that setup.
Kicked it over in the driveway today and let it warm up, it instantly removed fuel from zero throttle and 2000 rpm idle, can't wait to see what it does in the bush..
Look at these numbers Had two runs today both for about an hour and a half in open fire trails and tight single trail. After the first run the autotune took the maximum amount of fuel which I set to +/- 10% over every throttle position and rev range. The bike felt great as autotune leaned out the bike. Second run once I accepted the setting the bike felt even better with it really coming alive to the point where it started to scare me a bit as the motor just wanted to rev... holy shit... The bottom end is crisp and pulls better than before but as the motor hit the mid range and top end it just screams... well worth the expense and time. So I can crawl through single trail in a higher gear popping the wheel over any obstacles and when it opens up well good luck keeping up...ha ha
Reviving an old thread. I just bought a 2010 te310, it has the power up kit (remove o2, sprocket, etc...) and I’m hoping for a bit more humpf... What is the consensus on the ecu/kit/injector to get nowadays? I’d prefer to state husky vs JD etc... Thank you
Finding the Husky ECU is very difficult. Kawi Injector and a Dynojet Powercommander PC5 PC 5 PCV V USB Husqvarna made it a wheelie popper and unleashed it's potential. Basically, $330 for the PC5 and $75 for the Kawi injector.
Thank you for the info. I did find a race ecu so now the question is to buy the race ecu or the power commander. Price is about the same. I’m leaning toward husky ecu..
If your certain it's the "real race ECU" I'd go with it and the Kawi injector. Part number is on the pic I posted.
So, it is time to return and write a bit in here. I had this terrifying bog/stalling on the low RPMs. Bike was unrideable in tough terrain. Solution: iBeat + OBD VW Cable, went to MX track, warmed up the bike, did 5 laps. Did the TPS reset. Let the bike idle, repeatedly wanked the throttle to Wide Open and back, increasing the CO until it worked well. You should find a balance between lagging-stalling and bogging. Final CO settings: 115, 108, 108. No bogging at all, rideable in all conditions. Drove ~1500km with this setup. MX, Enduro, Rally, you name it. Got stalling issues again. Changed fuel filter. Again, no issues, drives like a charm. OBD cable costs ~25 Euro, no other investments. P.S. Bike is always in Race Mode. No Cat, Lambda plugged, open Air Filter Cage, TE EURO ECU. P.P.S. If most of the people want to pay 400-500$ and do some electric mods to fix this problem, this is their own choice
Alexander, thats great to hear. I am having good luck so far with being in Race Mode, no Cat, Lambda plugged, open air cage, and my stock TE ECU. The power is there. Th only issue I need to fix is the throttle is like an on/off switch. I think once I get Ibeat an duo what you have done it will smooth it out.
Alexander, I have a 2011 TE250 with 12 hole and JD tuner. I'm looking to make things a little better by modifying iBeat settings. I just order a cable but I need some help learning about iBeat settings. It seems like you made some great progress with iBeat. Would you mind sending me some pointers?
