Why would you get rid of the power commander? Just get a 12 hole injector and you can infinitely tune it with the Power Commander, instead of being limited to the map they sell you with the kit> The injector is a Kawasaki part that came stock on the ZX10 and 12.
Would this be the correct Kawi part number (49033-0027). If so it looks like it is $74.16 at most online dealers. Oh, and this part number is an injector nozzle off of a 2011 ZX-10R. Her is another part number for the 2010 ZX10R injector (49033-0011), and it is $46.54. I'm guessing it must be the 2011 model but does anyone know for sure?
It works, hard to explain but it does what it is supposed to do, making more power throughout the rev range. I think the best thing about it is you actually feel it is atomizing the fuel better giving a better pull where before it was just dumping it if that makes sense. First ride I took it straight up a field hill and it broke traction where it normally would not do that before. I could definitely pull a gear stronger out of the turns and that is what I was looking for. Thanks Husky for making this available but the history of all the magazine tests may have been written a little more positive if my bike now was tested in 2010. I played with some CO settings but still not enough yet, computer was acting up. I think 100 on all 3 CO's is going to be close. I tried some higher numbers but I think I got carried away and lost some mid. Dave, do you know what ball park idle that the bikes like best? I think I am idling around 2200 and I need to set that down a little. My TPS reading is 1021. I knew about the kawasaki injector but already ordered the Husky one. Husky one comes with a ECU as well, I am not sure how it would run with a stock ECU. If you already have the $600.00 power commander with auto tune then you should be good to go.
By the way, the 12 hole injector husky supplies is dark green. The stock 6 hole injector is yellow just so you know. The 2012 TE's have the yellow 6 hole and the 2012 TXC 310 has the dark green 12 hole.
I sure hope it is what they are promoting it to be. I just ordered one from Hall's (ECU & Injector) $352.xx. I seriously cannot stand how this bike runs on the bottom, and if it were mine (not my wife's) I would have gave up on it.
If you are talking about a stumble, my bike had no stumble on the bottom before installing this and does not now either. It just gave the bike a better pull through the gears and makes it easier for me to get out of the turns. I am getting a small pop on de-acceleration but I think this is due to my CO numbers slightly being off. I did not get to play with yet. It's new bike season and I am less excited about a new bike now that I have some more oomph..
Very interesting. I wonder what the Kawasaki part # is. It seems that the last year for the ZX-12 was 2005. A 2005 injector was part number 49033-1056.
I am pretty sure the dual sport label was so the bike could be plated as there is great demand for a dirt bike with a plate. Husky knows the bike is no real dual sport and look at how their sales sky rocketed since 2006 when they first introduced these "dual sports." NC
I thought a kx 250 f would have the same injector. I don't know this for a fact, this is the first place I heard of the ZX-10. I also heard that the kawasaki parts book states that it is a 12 hole injector.
Uh oh! I was under the impression that this injector, and ECU were mainly targeted at making the bottom significantly better as in no bog. I guess I will just have to hope for the best. On a different note how long did it take for you to get the parts? I ordered them today, and am hoping maybe sometime next week they will show up.
This is from the 2010 Husky NA product guide. Read the third paragraph, and you will see that it is saying new 12 hole injector, and ECU. I found the guide on Halls site on the front page. Husqvarna’s TXC line of off-road racers are made for the trail, but bred for competition with plenty of influence from their TC motocross counterparts. For 2012, Husqvarna focused on gaining maximum performance from the TXC250, giving more focus to the on-track aptitude of the off-road hybrid. New ignition timing, heavily revised fuel injection and an all-new Leo Vince exhaust system equate to a substantial difference in the power output, while a stiffer frame and upgraded Kayaba suspension components further advance the “motoproficiency” of the TXC250. The Kayaba shock is all-new on the TXC250, replacing the previous Sachs unit. (TXC suspension components are now 100% Kayaba). Front suspension is upgraded with stiffer springs and new valving on the 48mm closed-cartridge fork. The latest-generation chromoly frame further refines the chassis through the addition of new plates near the steering head, and reinforcement in key areas. These structural improvements not only improve the handling capabilities of the TXC250, but also improve the long-term durability of the frame. Power is made more potent with the free-flowing Leo Vince exhaust system (same as TE250 unit without the catalytic converter insert), which also weighs 300 grams lighter than the system it replaces. The 12-port fuel injector and revised ignition map not only improve power, but also provide better throttle response for crisp, polished motor performance. The shared changes to the Husqvarna off-road model range (black frame, silver Excel rims and new IPD graphics) complete the look of the latest TXC250.
Do you have a "bog" or is it just not powerful enough off the bottom? My 11 250 stock has no bog what so ever. That would tell me your tuning is off a bit.
Well before I say what I ride know that I am only around 5'11" 160lbs. I MX race a 10 Honda CRF450, XC race/ride a 09 KTM 450 EXC, and lastly for super fun DS'ing & trails I have a 11 TE630. So yes I could be jaded, and it's just the power. I did however at one time have a 04 WR250F, and it (from my recollection) had terrific power. This 10 TE250 which I specifically built for my wife is anemic in the 2000-3000rpm range. By anemic I mean it feels like it has no motor whatsoever. If you whack the throttle it will bog then stall or maybe if all goes well it will hiccup and get going again. I have been playing with the settings via Ibeat, and going slightly richer in the bottom makes it marginally better. Going leaner makes it worse. I can't get over why it is this bad. I have been going through this site, and I am not the only one who feels this way. In fact there was a post by Fury1 that pretty much summed up my thoughts on the bottom end power. My wife loves this bike but also does not like the "dead" bottom. FYI she is 125lbs-5'7", and her other bike was a 230f honda trail bike. Like I said before if the bike was for me I would have sold it already. I almost forgot to mention that this bikes ECU has the current reflash done, and obviously is in full power up mode.
It made my bike easier to ride down in that rpm range as well throughout the whole rpm range. I only have 1 ride on it but I did notice a difference right away. I already had the Leo ECU to solve my bog when my bike was new, this was before they came out with a re-flash. A buddy has a '12 KTM 250 SXF and while it has more true HP, I got no problems in the woods on this thing now. For woods riding I think mine is easier to ride than the KTM SXF as I am able to track through the turns better. It now does not have a issue with waiting on the power to build out of it when you get a short straight. It's good and I am hoping it will fix your issue, I am just saying that the stumble could be another issue. If any of my 450 friends ride the bike, sure it has no power compared to a 450, that is until you get used to it. If they come from a 125/150, friends ask why are you looking for more power. I would have sold mine too if it was not for how good the bike handles, I am glad I stuck it out as now it has a motor to go along with it. I ordered this part the day it was announced on here and just got it last week. I would think Husky NA would have ordered more than 1.
Sorry to hear of the disappointment. To start with, I think you may be slightly jaded riding / racing and being used to big bores, but think it's also quite a bit your bike. I'll give you my personal comparisons. Right now I'm on the 11 TE 250 and still have my 08 TE 450. I sold to my now riding partner a 07 wr250f. His brother has a 04 wr250f. I think my 250 is very comparable power to the 07 WR. It definatly has less power 2000- 3000 rpm or so but I think when it comes on it comes on harder. In the 2000- 3000 when I whack the throttle it definatly doesn't do what you describe- bog and stall or hiccup at all. It just accelerates smoothly at a slower rate. The 07 WR guy says his brothers 04 is just slightly stronger than his 07. I would say both are quite dialed in. I don't think the carbs have the exact tuning though. My 250 compared to my 450- 450's stronger off the bottom and pulls hard through out the range with out hit really. 250's weaker off bottom without a bog but it's hit is more abrupt. Even though the 250 produces less HP than the 450, I'm supper impressed with it's power in comparison. Can't believe the difference is 200cc. You mentioned playing with ibeat. You must own one. I would suggest moving your throttle stop screw to change the way the ecu sees the throttle position. It's a big difference in the way the bike runs. Make sure on the TPS screen the two shown TPS mv's are even. I've read over and over to set the hard stop to 100.2 or 100.4 when read at WOT. My 450 runs excellent, has no bogs, no stalls, starts good hot but kinda a bastard to start cold. After getting ibeat I rest the TPS to the recommended 100.4 and it ran much worse. Set it back much higher and back to good again. My 250 is also set quite a bit higher than recommended but runs beter than several. Anyway, just a recommendation to play with. You can always goof with it and if it doesn't work or gets worse set back to the way it was. Remember to keep record of all your starting settings. Good luck. Btw, I'm 5'11" 175 lb- not too far off from you.
Jason % raisrx251 thanks for the insight, and tips! I do have an ibeat, and will try the TPS settings. I am into this bike pretty deep as far as cash, and time goes so it will not be leaving anytime soon. Besides there is not really any other option for a plated 250f so this one has to work! Thanks again for the help it is much appreciated.
Jason I think the TPS did the trick for the bottom-thank you! I just got back from a short ride, and you know I think the bike has an entirely different problem. Typically I ride 3-4 times a week, and this week I have not rode at all (bike is making my life depressing...lol). So I take it out for a spin, damn it's running great(after doing Jason's TPS mod). Only symptom is a light hesitation if I open it up too quickly right off idle without clutching. This I say is acceptable for a 250f. Anyhow my real reason for riding it was to see what is going on with the starter. I can kick start it, and it will fire every time. If I use e/start it's hit or miss as of late. So I kick start it to get it going then every mile or so I stop, and light it back up with the e/start. No problems it's starting every time. So after doing this several times with good results I go to kill it and the fan starts but I had already started to kill it so it dies. I wait a couple of seconds light it back up (using e/start), and even though it started easily it's stumbling & coughing(no fail codes). I try to ride it out but it's hardly going so I stop it for just a second re light it, and it's fine as if nothing happened. Could my problems be related to the temp sensor? I had been checking this prior with the Ibeat, and it seemed to be working! I have two of the sensors on order because I wanted spares for both huskys we have. I forgot to mention the stumbling thing did also happen once before over the last weekend. I really do appreciate the help thank you all.
