Looks like the instructions just say to reset the TPS, not to actually set it to a particular value. Hmmmm
Yea- I think the 1035 mv and 1021mv is just an example- and those seem like really high closed throttle voltages- which is what is adjusted at the "set" and "read" stage.... Maybe those numbers are an intended clue that isn't clearly expressed? See if there's another page- 510 SM MC... It is absolutely necessary to adjust the TPS when putting on a new ECu since the ECU has no idea where your hardstop WOT and closed TPS is adjusted to.
To me that just looks like an example and not a recomendation on TPS value let alone hard stop positions. Looks like they are just wanting TPS "recalibrated" Thanks for posting 510 SM MC.
Yes there is a second page, same as the first, in Italian... Just trying to help. The race ECU runs to 13K, stock is 11K. So you think that is why Husky tells me to change the TPS to factory race specs ??? That said, I would like to thank Dave @ husky UK for giving us the "heads up" on the "upgrade" and starter of this thread... I have a PCV/Auto-tune listed in the classifieds. Good Luck with what ever you do. 2011 TE/TXC/SMR 250 #510
I already changed two ECU's on my 310TE (2011). You only have to tell the ECU where is zero by resetting it. You will always get different values when you do it. First time I did it with my dealer, so I think that is pretty correct...
So are we safe to assume that this new injector/ECU is eliminating the Low end Bog/hesitation? Seems like a lot of people are trying it out, but not too many are sharing their successful/or not successful outcomes. please share if this is really helping and what the steps are to make this bike run perfectly.
I've tried to add my experience to this thread to help others - see post #122 The new injector/ecu is now working well for me. My initial problems were due to the fact that the dealer had richened up the CO settings in iBeat as if they were setting up the regular ECU. Because I don't have the race pipe, I have leaned out the mix a little bit and it seems to be working well. but I think I can get better still. Right now I've got all three CO settings set to 100, and then I have leaned up all three parts of the mix by 1/2 step using the JD tuner. You could just use iBeat for this and not use the JD tuner, but I don't like having to go to dealer and JD tuner is cheaper than iBeat. My TPS is set to 102.0 and that is working pretty good, but the idle is still high at around 2,300 rpm and often the idle hangs high for a bit after coming to a stop. I may try going up to 102.4 as others have said that is where they found their's from the factory. SUMMARY - with new injector and ECU and current EFI settings my bike is very fun to ride even in the really slow stuff. It is not bogging, it only stalls when I make a mistake, and the low end just off idle is no longer light switch on/off like. Now just need to fix shock - the reservoir dumped its load on my case this weekend!? No shock fluid = pogo stick + dirty mess Only 6 rides on it?! Hope this helps.
Thanks jimbee, that does help. As soon as the parts are in, we're heading to the dealership to get the injector and ECU installed, and the TPS reset (these are on back order since before Christmas). Can't wait to get this bike working perfectly... Laura
I personally don't think its safe to assume either is "eliminating" the low end bog. I do think the whole kit; new ECU, injector and exhaust, after a proper TPS calibration with proper CO settings will make it run great from low to high. Any time you use "part" of a kit intended to be used to be used as a whole "kit" some elbow grease will be needed to make it work. I don't like loud bikes so I decided against the "kit" and have made mine work with the injector only along with a lot of elbow grease- tuning TPS and with the JD tuner. I dont have any bog at all. I dont have a super strong bottom either. I don't think these bike are engineered to have super strong bottom ends. A lot of times its how systems works together not just one adjustment like TPS or JD settings. I guess what Im trying to say is I don't think one individual thing will take the bog away. I think the whole "system" needs to set up right to work.
There is one thing that I think a lot of people are forgetting. This is a high revving RACE engine and needs to spin some rpms to work properly. Husqvarna engineers did not design this engine to loaf around at low rpms and no matter what ECUs or pipes are installed, the engine is still a screamer and not a grunter.
^^^^ That says a lot if coming from a 450/510. There is nothing substantial on these x-lites below 4K RPM. Not a lugger. Clutch or Autoclutch is your friend!
I had a ride of the first ingected model 250 and own a carby model.What I liked on the first ingected model was the silky smooth soft power just of idle that worked very well in low traction and tight single track.The bike I rode was a varst improvement to my sorted carb model.What is needed is not so much a lugger but a bike that pulls smoothly from idle without the cough and stall flaming out or bogging.No one wants to ride tight single track in 6th gear at 2500rpms and there are lots of times where ripping along in 2nd gear at 6000 will be a problem as well.
As much as I'd like to do the full shebang here, I can't ride without a spark arrestor. I'm assuming the Leo Vince system doesn't have one?
Thanks! Hey I read some of your other posts. I guess there were some issues with your ECU's? How is your bike running now?
The bike is running great. The dealer was correct that I had a bad ecu with the new kit as the bike would not really run below 3k rpm's. Once I put the new ecu in the bike fired up and worked great. Still disappointed with Husky...the kit never came with the carbon bracket to attach the exhaust...I had to buy it from Leo Vince...to date Husky has not delivered the part and was unwilling to pay me the $70 I had to pat Leo Vince.
I agree with you Jason, but I'll see if we can get the bike to be a little better using the ECU/injector/TPS for now.. I have the JD tuner as well and it may be helpful along with the new parts. I don't really care about the bike being super powerful down low.. I just want a smooth "even flow" of power from the get go. I will need more practice using the clutch since my last bike was super simple to ride (never really touched the clutch except to stop). I really like the idea of the Rekluse auto clutch.. that's almost like cheating in a way . This sport is so expensive.... but so much fun too.
And I bet you will get it! I rode my old wr250f a few weeks ago and it made me realize my bike will not chug like that one. Oh well not all bikes are the same, ya give something to get something.
The problem is the x-light does not rev fast enough to combat stalling with the clutch. If the flywheel was lighter it would spool up sooner.
