125-200cc 125/144 Power valve Governor springs

Kelly,

I am going to send you the standard kit with instructions, pictures, and the color coded spread sheet. I am really looking forward to how your 125 reacts to changing the opening points and if the progressive opening of the pv works in the 125 like it did in the 144. I really appreciate your taking the time to test and give real world independent feed back. You have to remember that my 125 was virtually unrideable prior to this so my evaluations are inherently skewed.

Walt

I have the EG 144 kit on its way and asked for more low end. What would you suggest for a spring setup?

gestion01,

If it pulls hard without any flat spot, I would probably lean towards the middle spring in the kit with the strongest inner spring. That way you will get a very progressive opening with the fully open rpm approximating stock. Take some pics of your Power valves and cylinder when you get them back and post them up. I am very curious to see the difference between our parts.

Keep us posted,
Walt

Ok, I will take some pictures.

Since I opted for more low, and the 144 already gives some more by itself. Maybe I should tune the power valve to open very quickly? Almost wired opened?

gestion01,

It really depends on how you like to ride it. With the pv opening at 5000 rpm, I really didn't have any problem riding it in very slow single track. There is plenty of room to ride it on the lower half of the rpm range in tight stuff and when you want to gooo it is right there. I will be very interested to see what your power valves look like and that will determine a lot. Any way you look at it you are going to have a blast with the 144.

Walt

I like a nice ''hit''. Once you know its there and where, jumping over stuff is much easier. My riding style has become more agressive lately.

Maybe Scott has my cylinder sitting on his desk and can take pictures

If you like the hit then I would try just the lightest spring by itself initially and then work from there.

Walt

Ok, lightest spring then skip the other 2?

I would start by trying the lightest large spring by itself. Then adjust up from there. There will be a color coded spread sheet on the springs. If it is too quick a hit then add the strongest inner spring. Then try the lighter but longer inner spring. Then go to the middle spring by itself and so on. You should be able to find exactly what you want. If you leave the cover off the linkage, you can make changes without having to remove the pipe every time. Just remember before you put it all together again to pull the linkage off completely, clean it, and re-grease the ball joints and make sure the space inside the linkage case is clean then bolt it together and ride it like you stole it. Changing the springs in this fashion only takes a couple of minutes each time if you take your time.



Walt

Thanks again!

I will get scott to send me a kit.

For all you guys that are going to get a spring kit, I added a spring to the original 5 springs. So you will get 3 large springs and 3 small inner springs. I added another smaller spring because I thought it added another level of adjustability.

The three inner springs come in 3 different lengths, so they will allow the power valves to be opened to differing openings before they take effect to slow further opening. They also are progressively stronger the shorter the spring. The longest spring lets the pv open about 1/4 of the way before it slows the progression but being softer quickly opens fully. This spring is mostly effective in fine tuning initial opening and making opening only marginally more progressive. The middle spring allows the PV to open about 1/2 of the way but is much stiffer significantly delaying the final opening. The shortest and stiffest spring allows the PV's to open about 70% and delays the final opening the longest. If nothing else you will certainly be able to make your 125 run exactly the way you want it to.

Both Hall's Cycle and Scott Rocher should have these springs early next week, although I have no idea how long it takes to go through customs to Canada. I have also asked Kelly @ motosportz and Drew @ W.E.R. to do independent testing so that you can get a straight up discussion of benefits and re-actions. Once again this has been a blast to do and I hope anyone that wants to fine tune gets some benefit. This certainly hasn't been about making money as I am just trying to cover costs and as I learn more I can pass it along.

My next project is to try George Erl's 167 kit and relay how that kit works for the 09/10 WR 125's. I am getting a 144 kit from Kelly as a back up so off to Santa Ana goes my jug and power valves. I may be crazy to screw with my 144 now that it runs soooo gooood but I know I will have fun working with a new setup. It's only money after all and I will be dead in another 20 years so why try to take it with me.

Walt

I just did the same thing.

Let me know how you like it.

Rich

Right now the top end is sitting on the shelf. I hope to have it done this weekend. But no way to try it out in my area. Too cold, too much snow and don't want to test cold weather jetting with the new top end. It will have to wait until last week of February before the Alligator enduro.

...Unless we get warm weather and I go try it out on the indoor mx track...keep you posted!

* eyes glued to screen waiting for more data....braaaaaaap! droooollll....*

Kelly,

Considering how well your bike rips as is, I would try the weekest large spring(orange) with the stiffest and shortest inner spring(green). This should give you the most progressive opening. I want to say I think you will end up with this or the silver inner spring, but considering where you like to ride and not having a bog maybe the yellow large spring might be best to give you more bottom end room. The yellow spring lowers the pv opening by ~1700 rpm but with the stiff green inner it won't open fully until about where the stock spring opens fully. The beauty of the kit is with 3 large and 3 inner springs you should be able to find your happy place. Plus you can adjust springs in 10 minutes before any ride to match your terain.

When I went south in December, I was just using the orange outer spring alone. With the 144 kit I still had plenty of bottom end for weaving trees and working through really tight rocky ledges and when I needed the hit it was right there and instantaneous by just whacking the throttle. I think for here in Montana where it is all about down fall and tight rocky single track, I am going to run it with orange and green combination. OBTW, I was running 13x50 gearing there and am thinking about changing to a 14 for Moab later this winter. The 144 pulls that well.

Good luck Kelly and enjoy the experimenting. I leave the linkage cover off and make quick changes without removing the pipe to test the springs. Of course if it is muddy this isn't a good idea.

Walt

Just an FYI that Hall's Cycle got their spring kits today and you can order them with an e-mail. I would think they will have them up on their site as a buy it now item in the very near future. I don't know how long it will take them to clear customs and get to Scott Rocher. Anybody else have an idea of how long it takes to ship stuff through customs to Canada?

Walt

I havent got mine yet. I will keep you posted.

Thanks Scott. All the kits went out at the same time so it will be interesting to see the delay. You aren't much farther from me than Hall's except there is a border between us. The guys at Hall's are headed to South Carolina next week for their enduro and I believe they will be using a spring in one of the WR 125's. It will be interesting to see the results they have.

Walt