125-200cc 125/144 Power valve Governor springs

sounds like alot of work and research has went into this!! It is good to see someone cares. For me, my 09 wr 125 and my 09 wr 144 with proper jetting and fmf exhaust and gearing are both GREAT with out messing with the spring. May help I am and A rider. Still anyone that spends time with a husky and getting it to perform better I find awesome! Thanks!

Thanks Fletchman,

I have seen as many preferences as there are riders. I also know that the more you adjust the linkage up the more you need to compensate with stiffer springs in the governor. I really need to do some more work with the kit when taking into account linkage adjustment.

I personally like a little bit lower hit but over a more extended range. With my linkage up and the 144, I like the white outer spring with either the green or silver inner spring. The 167 has no need to adjust up the linkage with the older style power valves and I am really liking the yellow and green spring. Wonderful low end progressing into a large and usable mid-range and a nice top fairly consistant with the 144 top. The 167 easily pulls a tooth larger on the CS sprocket with this setup.

Walt

Installed green and white springs. Comes on pipe earlier, less bog, less need to be in right gear. Best performance upgrade available.

hello everyone,

where can i purchase one of those spring kits? been looking on hall´s cycle website but found nothing.

thank you

I believe member "wallybean" is the one supplies them. Not sure if you buy them through Walt, or Motosportz, but send walt a pm.

Hall's Cycles has them also.

Hi, I just received my Lectron carb and WB powervalve governor spring kit delivered from Motorsportz. I got the carb sorted and now my almost new 2011 WR125 runs clean and strong from bottom to top.
So, now it is apparent that the power is linear untill the pv opens abruptly and very late. The stock springs must be way too stiff. Thanks Wally for digging into the problem. The factory really should have done this.
I am with Wally in that I want the earliest opening and most gradual transition. Will try this first and see how it goes. I prefer no hit at all if possible, only linear power as my hands are full dealing with the nasty terrain or slippery conditions, anything else is only distracting.
Will post how it goes.

Don't be so quick to jump to conclusions that the PV needs to be opening earlier.
I made this mistake as have several others.
It has been shown on several dyno graphs comparing the springs from Light - stock - stock+inner spring. The stock + inner spring actually showed a beefier midrange, going to a lighter spring showed up a big dip in the mid range from memory around the 6500rpm + range. I have tried lighter springs & ended up using stock+ inner spring & the difference is huge, so much so a gear higher can be used.

Your using the lectron perhaps this will have different results but it would still be worth trying the stock + silver or blue inner spring as a comparison.

Below are from another member. TMXX carb RM needle only difference is light PV spring vs stock+ silver spring Please note RPM is 1000 off (IE 5000rpm is actually 4000rpm)

You just have to remember that the both the full exhaust port and especially the pipe timing is meant to make hay from 8000 to 12000 rpm. Dumping the power valves open early is going to cause that dip in the curve. The only way to be able to open those power valves earlier is to change both the pipe timing and the displacement. The port timing is always going to work against having the power valves opening early.

Interesting. Thanks for the info.
I'll schedule a testing day on pavement and try first the outer springs to see what RPMs work and not. Then I'll try the different inner springs to check which transition is favourable.
I'm keeping it as a 125 for now and want to optimize it with the "cheap" mods first, just to do the research in the right order. Not doing the 165 with 200 pipe eventually would be a crime ;-)

How do you think an FMF Fatty would change things? How much earlier would that pipe timing be? 1000 RPM, enabling the use of a one step softer outer spring than with the stock pipe?
The bulge on the Fatty looks a lot bigger than stock. I suppose FMF have tuned the pipe to extract the most from the stock port timing.

Thanks, Fred

Hi, tested yesterday and ended up with stock outer spring and silver inner spring, having the same opening rpm but increasing the transition range from 200 rpm to 600. The increased range changes the transition from sudden to quite smooth, at least in 3rd and 4th gear at 13/50. I am very happy with the results.

The testing was made on pavement in 3rd and 4th gear roll on with the assumption of ending up with white outer and green inner spring.
1st run was with orange and green. The motor was very weak across the whole range. I noticed the reassembly had been wrong and the governor shaft was not attached to the governor. So, scratch that one.
2nd run was with yellow and green. Bike was very weak in the midrange with trouble getting past that and onto the pipe.
3rd run was white and green. Also a dip in the midrange and weak before coming on the pipe, but but maybe half as bad as before.
4th run was with stock outer and silver inner spring. Nice and strong linear power through the midrange handing off to a way easier transition to the top end pull.

By the way, regarding the the pv actuation arm set screw, I can't see any space above or below the nut, so I assume it is right in the middle. When reassembling the arm with the governor axle, it goes on easily but with no free play, so hopefully it is holding the pv closed when not actuated so the pv does not flutter But, that is only speculation.

Next is a Fatty in about a week and then it will be fiddling with the suspension.

/Fred

Good to hear.
You didn't try the stock and blue ?

When I was testing the springs I kept thinking it needed lighter springs, but the lighter I went the more pronounced the mid range dip was. Then when I was reading a few new 125 articles I noticed that Yamaha & KTM had increased the PV spring to get rid of the bog they had. The later model YZ 125 & KTM 125 the PV opens at an even later RPM then the husky stock spring.

Another Aus owner tested several on the dyno and he ended up with stock/blue inner combo. I'm happy with the stock/silver combo.. As you have found the transition isn't so abrupt.

Hate to jump on an old thread, but I am new to Husky's and recently picked up a 2013 WR125 that I am trying to get sorted. The fella I bought it from handed me a box of parts (144 cylinder, pvalves, head, etc and the PV springs in the attached pic. I am thinking this might be a Wallybean kit but not sure as I am not able to find a pic on the interwebs of what they would have looked like way back when. Appreciate an ID and also a little help on what setup would be best for the 125 and give the best bottom to mid power. Lot of tight single track where I am so I need to lug quite a bit. Thanks in advance for the help... View attachment 99580

Not sure why the attachment didn't work.