125 confusion.

Did you find out what made it flood the bottom ? You stated that the exhaust was leaking crap out . If you did not find the culprit, it will do this again and again. It most likely started because it finally dried out enough and wheel speed. Did you test the pet cock to see if it shuts off when turned to off ?

What should I run my gas mix at just casual riding. Not race but not to much to where ill bog or something when I pin it hard.

40:1 is a good all around mix...but you are thinking "lean or rich", it doesnt work that way. oil mix wont affect things like that.

I my dad rode the bike after me and forgot to close the pet cock and when he Leander it in the wall the trottal was open so when I kicked it it poured into the motor.

opening the throttle does nothing when the engine isnt rotating.
your float valve is worn, stuck, or has dirt trapped in it.
if you just open the throttle just kicking it, often the bike will start not flood.

40:1 works for everyone, and some use less oil.

40:1 is good std mix for modern oils. castor is an "old oil" and needs to be run rich. best is to get that maxima 927 castor mix which is a modern oil but smells like castor...excellent! I have run watercooled husky's at 100:1 using special fully synthetic motorex oil ( its a heavy base oil and can be run lean if you want.) run 40: 1 with any quality oil and you will be fine.

husky's have a habit of loading the crank with fuel. leaving the tap on will do it every time. if I don't get a fire lit under the 400 after 4 - 6 kicks with the choke on, I turn the choke and the fuel off and kick with the throttle wide open. after a few kicks it blubbers a bit then a bit more before it runs (quietly) while it shoots a few litres of stale fuel out the pipe then she revs up fine. don't point the exhaust at anything valuable when doing this as black gunky oily fuel all over your prized Monet hanging in the garage is sure to disappoint....

This thread is like watching a rerun of the Andy Griffith show for the 10th time, we all know whats going to happen but we still watch anyways.

It's a vicious cycle.

Are you using that worn old piston and ring you showed in the other post? Poor compression will also make a bike not fire with kicking but will fire with a bump start.

No not happening that's not going to happen. We're all different peoples as my buddy once said. We have a common bond though. Two wheels. There's nothing on the planet than becoming one with a machine. Bill

I never posted a picture my piston. But I'm doing an engine overhaul on it. It's getting a new carb new piston and rod new rings new seals. The bike needs it. But I did get it to kick start. It just took a lot of kicks. The compression is not at its finest. But it's there and I can feel it.

Do the crank bearings too. You can rebuild the carb. A new needle and seat will stop the gas leaking at the carb. You can replace the on/off gas tank valve or replace the rubber disc inside the valve too. That will stop the leakage at the tank. I like to completely go through the bike onetime then forget about it and ride.

I will do the crank bearings. and I'll probably buy a new carb there pretty cheap. But I don't know yet. And the leak is at the tank

I always shut my tap on my old huskies before I even shut the bike off and let it run for an extra 10 to 15 seconds. Then when I go to fire it I turn the tap on and kick immediately as they will fill up quickly. Be careful running that engine with worn out components. As mentioned they are not easy to get parts for and it would be a shame to destroy one that is still a runner. I'd also recommend cleaning up your ignition grounds and replacing the cap just to make sure you're getting decent spark. I did this on my 500 and it definitely seemed to make life a little easier as far as starting.

Just in case you didn't consider it, replace the crank seals and the center case gasket when rebuilding the motor.

Two stroke bikes with leaking petcocks and carb floats will accumulate a mess of 2 stroke oil the crankcase over time. The process of leaking and drying out allows 2 stroke oil to gather and as a result black goo spews from the exhaust manifold when kicking it over. It can take a while to wash the excess 2 stroke oil from the crankcase.

Another oil accumulating problem can come from a poor crank seal on the transmission side. Theres a period during the engine's cycle that the crank area is under a vacuum and if the crank seal is not doing its job gearbox oil will be sucked into the crankcase. I'm sure all you guys that have had 2 stroke motors apart have seen at one time or another black carbon coating the insides of the crankcase and combustion chamber. Crankcase oil leaves behind a lot of carbon.

Lastly, if you're doing the rebuild yourself make sure you do a leak-down test after reassembling the motor and while its still on the work bench. Google 2 stroke leak down to learn how.

Thanks guys. My grandpas pretty good with huskys. So hell help with this. Every parts getting checked and every deal is getting replaced (apart from my clutch cover seal I spent 40 to get the right one) if it's worn out it's getting replaced. The grounds are good. The spark cap is brand new. It's all getting spark. If I don't know how to do it. I won't do it. I'll have it done right. Until I learn how.

great job. you will enjoy the work and have a great bike when your finished. don't forget to "photograph everything" as you go so you can put it back together. cant take enough pics. sometimes your a month or two down the track before you can get back to it and then its "how does this go back together??". pics will save you. check out hva factory.com for a parts manual. download and print and bind for the shed. very helpful in working out what bolt goes where.

Get grandpa to work with you it's a family affair it's even more fun when it's running again. It's time spent with grandpa that you will always remember.