125-200cc 125 power valve adjustment - again

So Walt sould I adjust mine to the top (08 Cr125) ? I like bottom/mid power.


Adjusting it was easy with so if you havent done it it is worth a try (I am yet to be convinced that it made much difference)

'You lost me a little there Walt I need to divulge over a drink tonightz

love those pics Kelly - is that an SLR you used?

I would question the use of the word "bog" though
I think it needs to be defined correctly
To me bog it is related to the carby and not power valves
It is something that occasionally happens due to loss of fuel - and is very sudden and can almost throw you forward on the bike

Not being able to get on to the pipe due to revs and power valve not open I do wouldnt call bog IMO

Yes Walt that helped a lot, thanks. So I have the FMF Fatty and PC 2 and I was going to send off for the EG 144 kit. You feel the factory 144 kit may be better for what I want?

John,

Being that I am one of those that spent an unplanned 6 weeks sitting because my top end was toast, then yes I can't think of a better way to go than the oem kit. The parts are all Husky spec and all the work and mods are performed by the Husky sub-contractor(great). You also have the stock parts to re-install for eventual re-sale or incase of an unexpected breakage.

JMHO,
Walt

Rock dancer,

You are absolutely right that bog is the wrong term. But flat spot in the powerband doesn't do the problem enough credit.

I haven't heard of many 08 CR125's that have the problem. Certainly the earlier years that have the larger pv's don't seem to suffer from this problem either. The porting on the earlier 125 cr's isn't much different to the new cylinder. The most drastic difference is that they have an extra bridge in the large side transfers=7 transfers vs 09 5 transfer ports.

If I was you I would seriously consider the oem 144 kit also.

Walt

Kelly,

I think you can say that you have fully depreciated the camera. Feel free to invest in another bargain rack camera that takes great pictures and you can see the view screen.

Walt

Sorry to wake up an old thread but I think it's a good one
I may be wrong here but I think Kelly is disagreeing with Walt here because kelly is adjusting the bolt the opposite way to walt
walt is saying the bolt is adjusted so that the maximum gap in the slot is above the bolt Kelly is saying move the bolt up in the slot. Opposite ?
Is that right Kelly ?
I have just adjusted mine all the way so the arm is as high as possible. Is that what you did with yours?
Refer pic
This seems to have allowed the power valves to open sooner which gives a slight weakness at first throttle opening but then rips like it never has before. The power valves are open sooner
But also more open than before ( Walt may disagree but I can't see any other explanation)

After riding for an hour i pulled the pipe off and try bolt in the centre it has the feeling that it is restricted and PVs are not fully open even at top end - it's not making the same power
But it have better low end response . No slight bog feeling

Anyway I might try the 3/4 setting again as a compromise or a different spring

I am surprised a small adjustment makes a such a difference

Rockdancer,

A lot of water under the bridge since this post. When you adjust the screw up in the slot you are using the compression of the governor spring to keep the powervalves closed. The less tension the more likely the valves are to "flutter" as rpms approach the opening point. It doesn't really affect the opening rpm as the compression of the governor spring is very slight with the upper linkage spring (weaker) deflecting and working against the powervalves to keep them closed. The only downside to adjusting the linkage all the way up is there is point where you restrict throw enough to not fully open the power valves. When this happens the bottom of the power valves don't completely clear the exhaust port and effects ultimate top end. To find where that point is mark where the arm is located when the valves are completely open and the upper spring isn't deflecting. Then leaving the cover off adjust and test run observing where the arm throw is limited too. My guess is that you will start to see the throw being limited somewhere above halfway up the slot. It is somewhat of a trade off the further you go. Remember though by limiting opening you will only see a slight decrease in the very top end.

With the 165 kit, I always just add springs to actually raise the opening rpm as the 165 pulls so well below the valves opening. I also want the exhaust port completely open when the valves are open to create as efficient a flow as possible.

Walt, are you saying the way it is adjusted in the photo above you restrict flow or do you mean if the bolt was at the top of the slot?

Very top of the slot. When you pull your pipe use a flashlight and look into the exhaust port as you open the valves manually. You will see what I mean as the bottom portion of the power valves protrudes into the exhaust if they aren't completely open. Many have said that they cannot tell a difference but if you ran them on a dyno you would see the peak affected by the slight constriction.

When I re-cut the valves for the 165 kits I make sure that this is completely flush when open and polished smooth. This isn't always a perfect match when valves are mass produced.

That's right. You lose me a bit with the technical description but With it as per the photo at the bottom of the slot the bike felt like it had so much more power
At the middle it felt like the power valves weren't opening fully but it had better response down low

Moving the bolt to the right to the top of the slot may work well for down low but doesnt allow the power valves to fully open . This is as Walt described and when you put your fingers in the port and test the mechanism you can feel this is the case.
Even with the bolt at the bottom of the slot there is a still a small overlap of the valves into the port but much less
This can make a big difference to horsepower if valves are blocking ports.
If you were doing motocross the bolt at the bottom of the slot is surely a must.
So next setp is getting valves machine back a little to line up with Cylinder at full open

WOW.. Not to dis husqvarna but im new to this brand and am finding problems with this bike as i peruse these forums.. I do hope these seemingly little problems don't leave me wondering if i've wasted my hard earned money.. I've called the dealer where i purchased the bike to find out about these updated PV'S and see if i will get these at no cost,,being the wrong ones were installed from the get go.. Stay tuned!!

Most all the problems have been addressed with solutions. The rest of the bike is so brilliant that a bit of tweaking to get the motor right is worth it. Probably the biggest problem with the all the pre-'12 wr's is the large flywheel weight of the stock wr ignition. Many of the 125's and 144's in wr form had a hard time pulling through the power valve transition zone. The problem is exacerbated by poor needle selection for the stock TMXX from Husky. This problem has been largely fixed with the RM needles. The strange thing about the WR's problems were that some bikes didn't suffer from any "bog" issues at all. The only sure way to eliminate any hesitation during power valve transition is to have enough engine capacity to override the flywheel effect with the motor pulling hard up to and through any valve opening issues.

I do know that I was stunned that Husky could sell bikes that flat wouldn't run out of the box with any amount of jetting. This problem in 09 led me on an odyssey that over time has cost me losses of well over $10K in development of what I do. I will say that every time I ride my 165, I love it so much that I would do it all over again.

Thanks Wally,,i'm certain with folks like you i'll get this bike straigtend out,it just sucks having these issues.. I guess every make has some sort of problem. Oh and the dealer i took the bike to for a ticking noise on the right side of the engine, the tech ended up breaking the PV linkage bolt at the PV clean off and wait for it........denys his tech broke it.. I swear,, where's the integrity in people nowadays... Wally does that wossner piston come in a 2 ring design for increased piston life with that 165 kit id like to get??

Its a single ring but piston and ring life has been so good that I have never considered opting for a 2 ring design. Just more expense, friction, and wear items.

Thanks for the input ,,just want to make sure that this bike is a good machine before i start putting more money in it..

Back on this again.. Does anyone have a technique to installing the shaft between the power valve governor and the linkage.
The shaft has some teeth that mate with governor . It can be pulled out . No sure if this goes back in after the governor or before it . My linkage can be moved by hand when bike is not running - this shouldnt be the case. ( or is it ok ??? ) On my newer bike it seems fixed in closed position .
The bike was running good but wondering if this movement has any effect.
Id like to know how its done so I am not afraid to pull apart the other bikes governor to put an extra Walt spring in .