125-200cc 125 power valve adjustment - again

This is the first time I have read this thread and can't thank you guys enough for helping me understand how the PV works. It will allow me to tweak mine for a little more power in areas that are a bit off.

Any feedback on this? I ve heard some guys have power valve/arm movement when running . Movement which returns back to closed. My cr doesn't and it hasn't been touched . The wr which I've added a spring to the main governor spring
Has movement without any tension on arm - it's slack . It still works though.

If the power valves aren't fully opening or closing there is a huge difference in performance

It almost sounds like you are one tooth off or have the linkage adjusted far too loose. You should have about 1/16" of deflection in the upper spring keeping the valves closed when the linkage is adjusted properly. Where that is in the slot varies a bit bike to bike. That deflection is created by adjusting the linkage so that the governor when below opening rpm is forcing the linkage down/deflecting the upper spring against the little centering tab.

Thanks Walt . Ok so mine isn't right . There is not pressure on the shaft from the governor when not running.
I dont think the linkage adjustment is the issue - its at the middle. I know the power valves are moving fine .
The problem I encounter is how and when to insert the shaft. Where so you start from?
Is it in when you insert the governor or vice versa. ?

When looking through round hole where governor goes with the governor out the flat side of the teeth at end of shaft seem to be facing up a bit and when the governor goes in it pushes against it to slightly turn the shaft .
Its doesn't seem well connected though due to this movement in the shaft .

I don't know if this is pertinent or not, but I just did the first re-ring on my CR150. The guy who I buy my parts from is very knowledgeable about the Husky, so I asked a lot of questions.
He told me to just preload the spring, then tighten it there. I did that, and it ran like shit. I preloaded the spring substantially more, and maybe brought the bolt about 1/4 way up the slot from the bottom, and it works fine now.

Walt was talking about the upper spring are you ?

When you go to insert the governor the slot on the end of the shaft that the linkage hooks to should be almost vertical. About 11:30/5:30 on the clock. When the governor is installed the slot should be at about 9:30/3:30. There shouldn't be any play in the shaft counter clockwise. If there is then you probably have an issue with the splines on the shaft or the governor itself. By adjusting the screw in the linkage up in the slot you are in effect forcing the governor open slightly against the spring. The governor spring is much stronger than the upper linkage spring and it will force the upper spring to deflect against its post. This is the force that keeps your power valves fully closed. If the linkage is loose and has none or little tension against it the power valves will tend to flutter open and closed or stay partially open which will cause ill running.

That's what I took from your earlier post. It was the top spring I was referring to.
What would be the general effect of me preloading it more than I have? Any change in PV opening, or change in performance? Or is it's function just to ensure that the PV remains closed when not in operation.

thanyou thankyou thankyou
The slot I assume is the flattened part of the teeth at end of lay-shaft. (my lay-shaft moves in and out a couple of mms as well)
The pin is still in and when I remove the shaft it looks ok .
I will try again tonight -

By slot I mean the two flattened sides of the shaft that the linkage fits over and locks it in place. The shaft itself has teeth that are flattened on one side to make removal of the governor easy but a lot of guys just turn it 180 and rotate the shaft to get the governor in or out.

I think it's sorted now. Getting the shaft at exactly right angle when put the governor back in so that there wasn't movement seems to have been the issue. It took a few goes and i it was a bit out there was movement. I also disconnected the bolt at the spring and put that back on later to get the tension effect to hold the arm down .
Thanks again Walt

I just want to say to others that this may be sounding difficult but if you aren't removing the governor i think it's pretty easy to try adjusting the centre bolt
If your power valves are either not fully closing or fully opening it can affect the power quite a lot
If you feel it is bogging or not very responsive try moving the bolt to towards the top of the slot .
if you think that the top end is not what it should be it may be worth trying moving the bolt the other way
I am not sure why and other bikes may be different but mine was definitely opening up fully with the bolt near the middle and it may be a trade off of some of the low end but i think the top end is important

anyone else having issues viewing the attached pics? i cant see any in this post