TE/TC 17 TE 150

Not sure if this will help you guys or not?

But here are some of the issues I was having.

First, I ordered some pilot jets from local shop. I got these nice shiny ones with big numbers and easier to read. I think they were knock offs. So make sure when you order jets. Stick with genuine Mikuni. Plus, when you tighten them the screw driver slot mars easy. I don't think these jets are apples to apples????

Next up and this is just a theory of mine. I broke bike in with Maxima 927, then switched to Amsoil Dominator. My mix ratio was 50:1. Seemed like I was always a 1/2 jet to lean or rich, especially the pilot.

I went to bike shop and thought I'd take a shot at Maxima Synthetic K2. It also has corrosion additives and good for running high RPMs. So I changed my mix at 40:1. Why I go 40:1? These carbs came out in 2000. Most mix ratios were 32:1 and 40:1????? Is going higher to 50:1, 60:1 plus, messing things up???? Just prob a stupid theory I have????This lately has been what I'm playing around with and used it Sunday. I also always use 93 pump gas plus 3 oz of Maxima octane booster. I may eventually switch to VP T2. I don't want to make switch yet, cause bike has a warm fuzzy feelin to it.

I run a modded TMXX carb and have more needles/slides I'm testing, than a Heroin addict. Ha! Prob wonder at bike shops cause I keep ordering more and got tons more on back order. Things inside this carb that worked on my 09 Husky, is kinda working but not when I get to the woods. So here are some suggestions that might help some:

But remember to constantly watch your plug and do one move slowly at a time. These bikes like to be lean on bottom but you can go too lean quick if your not careful......

First

Do your float bowl/ mod with four holes drilled.

Second

Set your float now at 9mm because you won't run out of gas or lean out.

Third

Run your over flow hose up and over your side vent hose bracket on your float, then down and don't kink it.

Run your top two vent hoses up in your air box, and filter tip with a fuel filter. Every time you clean your air filter. Clean this filter with carb cleaner. I am not using very much fuel now and might be able to switch to a TC tank to run an 1 1/2 hour race.

Fourth

Vent your air box with a minimum of two 1" vents. I am using the Uni ones with removable foam. With out doubt, you need more air....

Fifth

Use a NGK BR9 ECMIX plug to jet. I am also going to try a NGK BR9 ECM. The NGK BR9 ECMVX is expensive and to me, seems hard to get good plug readings faster, cause it burns kinda clean. Plus, I don't want to knock it's coating off trying to clean it some. Just my two cents. I save my good plug for racing.

Sixth

The air filter does not like a lot of oil. So, I went from bottle filter oil to spray.

Seven

I am using a 74 diameter needle. The bike comes standard with a #4 slide. Since number # 4 is a richer slide, you could try a leaner diameter needle, say a 75 or 76. $9 needles lil cheaper than $100 slide? I'd prob stay around the #43 clip position number. The 75 or 76 might help clean up your bottom in woods. But start with a 40 pilot and work down. Yamaha YZ 125 uses same needles. They also have a 4.25 slide available???? Is it enough? Heck if I know?

Here are my settings:

74 diameter needle with # 5 slide

If I go to richer needles, I use a 5.5 or 6 slide.

37.5/35 pilot based on how tight track is.

470/480 main based on how tight or open track is.

Air screw 1 1/2 turns out

40:1 Maxima Synthetic K2

93 pump gas with 3 oz of Maxima octane booster.

Yellow powervalve spring set to opening fast, to match my home made needle.

FMF shorty silencer on stock pipe. I like the sound but on stock pipe, I notice no difference. I will invest in the Fatty this winter. Think Scalvini is too much of motocross pipe???

Right now, believe it or not. But my bike pulls with my carb on bottom, like I added two teeth to rear sprocket. I have over rev up top and a pull like I dropped a tooth or two to rear. Everything thing in between just rips and spools up fast. I been letting off the gas, down long straights, cause worried gonna blow the bike up.
I have set this bike up for tight turns and short run, straight up hills, with very little clutch usage. There is a lot of work testing stuff right now, then taking bike out to tracks to see if it works.

My goal down the road? I might do a, in your garage tutorial, so you can do your own carb? I still doing more testing,etc...... Prob don't realize the work and money coming up with a good or perfect setting. Be good winter project. We have a team race next then this baby coming apart for winter and it's gonna be blinged out and modded for next year. Gonna post all winter the stuff I'm doing. Gonna be fun though!

Without a doubt !!! This bike is awesome and don't think you realize it's potential. So far, I think it's the perfect woods weapon yet! Just wish I was younger and could take it to its potential.

Oh! That darn clutch started dragging again last night and wouldn't start good with clutch in and in first gear !! So not sure if needs bleed again, needs something inside to add lil more push on pressure plate????? I might try T6 as well in tranny!

40-50:1 lean for a little bike isn't it? Id hav thought they'd recommend 32:1?

the manual recommends 50:1 - 70:1 i believe I read. So 32:1 woulda actually be leaner, not richer.

darty im not far off of your jetting now (im on the stock carb tho) 35 pilot 180 main whatever the middle needle between the 2 other that come with it & mid clip (gosh those little things are hard to read). Also about 1.5-1.75 turns out on the air screw. I have a flat spot on the way bottom end but it feels great after a split second. Not sure where to go from there. Im running amsoil dominator, theres not much els around thats easy to get but maybe ill try somethin els out once I finish this jug.

You mean 480 main?

That flat spot might be your power valve off lil? Try moving it either direction 1/8 turn at time.

I would also maybe try 32.5 pilot once just to see if makes it worse?

The little reading up I did on it was that the blue was between green and yellow and of course red is the hardest hit. Think I'm gonna try get a green and blue to see if the green is the same as the stock no color spring or what.

Durr, yes i meant 480.. Ill try the other needle first if not ill go back and try the 32.5.

Not so much for fuelling but more for residual oil(crank/bottom end) & top end seems lite on for a high revving bike. Jus sayin. Grouse lookin bikes tho

Carb two coming down the line.

Another post related to PV springs on KTM Talk...

The none colored spring that comes in the SX & XCW 150 is a progressive spring which I'm not a fan of, this is whats causing most of the bog/zap in the mid. I have tested the yellow, red and blue springs which are all better than the stock progressive spring for moto and Offroad. I have settled on the blue 1 1/2 turns in from flush or 2 1/2 turns in from all the way out.
I race Vet Expert.

Norm! Thank you very much! That's a big help and we thank you for your expert advice.

Also, thank you for part numbers!

Got the blue one on the way.

No expert... just relaying info. I hope I can get my 200 sold, so I can buy a TE150!

Well that's a big help because it saves a heck of a lot of time, stopping and adjusting stuff.

Carb two is ready for fire in the hole!

thats purdy

Thanx!

Going to do one of these carbs in anodized blue with white hoses.

If you guys would like? I can back track this weekend to see if I can get one of three stock needles spot on?

Pretty sure all I have to do is stick a #5 slide in then jet the pilot and main.

I have an excellent needle better than stock to go with yellow powervalve spring but here is problem.

There are only 3 and I bought them. I have other ones coming in, that are on back order. Gets real frustrating!

I sent out tons emails to see if there are more of good needle in old stock????

That is the question?

Also going to pull the clutch apart to measure the pressure plate doo ma hicky.

Either going to drill/tap it, to see if can install the old adjuster, (allen socket type adjuster)or order various shims to get it to release? Figure if I can get it to release on my engine and not slip then we should be good to go.

When clutch starts dragging on KTM/Husky hydraulic clutch, it usually just needs bleeding. Back bleeding with a syringe works best. Clutch adjustment is with gasket thickness on slave cylinder mounting point. My old style 125/150/200 engine list 3 different thickness gaskets. Give it a good bleed first.

Yeah, bleed to death. No air at all.

I did not know about gasket thickness deal and that's helpful.

Nother problem is no one has 17 TE parts pdf up.

On my '15 it happened on reassembly after splitting to do 150. I bled conventionally forever with no improvement and then a back bleed push fixed it. I learned this on a friend's VOR 15 years ago.

Munn Racing has it....
http://50.249.93.75/munnracing/index.cfm?1=1