TE/TC 17 TE 150

Might see if this dealer still has this one http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcd/5824836336.html

What gets me is dealers will say they don't get certain models because they don't sell them but how do they expect to sell a bike they don't have. Not many bikes suit me because I'm so tall, there's no way I'd order a bike I've never sat on and it wouldn't hurt to ride one or at least a similar one, like a year or two older model. I have a YZ125 and I've owned a GasGas 200 and a Suzuki rm125/144 and the over rev of a 125 is the best part. IMO when you make it a 144 it loses some of that. I'm interested in the 150 because they change the stroke and the bore and leave it in the light 125 chassis. If I don't find one I like I'll make a yz134 which has a lighter piston than the OEM

How do you 150 owners compare your over rev to a 125?

I got the last 150 at our dealer, they had 1 more that was a 'demo' bike they said would probably be sold as soon as it can be. They had one other 150 in the showroom with a sold sticker on it. Mine was around back. I think they only got 3 or 4 but ordered like 7 or 8, couldnt get em. My dad wanted one too but told him hes beat till 2018.

Rode around our place last night. Amazing that it was 75 degrees.

Think it's time to pull bike apart for a long winter nap and a whole new make over.

Got a lot of neat sheet I want to do.

One thing I noticed on tear down. Upper power valve vent hose has mud and stuff in it. It's close to the cover and fitting. So must be drawing down the hose and into the housing.
Must be from laying bike down at car wash when spraying under side off.
So, going to route it up under my tank with a loop and put a fuel filter on end.

Think might as well just put new piston and rings in for next season. Only $135 bux, so that's cheap.
I've got about 22 hours on it and keep old one if needed.

We matched up our battery boxes. His on his FC houses that small battery. Mine is larger and my battery box fits in his FC. So, he is going to get one so we can get a bigger battery for his with some good cranking amps.
Both our batteries are going south and everyone says the Western Power Sports ones are good and reasonable.

Piston at 20 hours

Here is how to get that T tube out for radiators that goes down thru frame.

Pop the permanent rubber ends off each side, using long screw driver. Replace the permanent bands later with hose clamps.

Heat the heck out of the top T with propane torch to release pipe dope. But not to burn your frame.

Slide long Phillips screw driver thru.

Let bottom fall enough thru bottom of frame to grab with vise grips. Don't grab where hose and clamp go.

Start un threading till gets hard again. Reheat and keep un threading.

There are three ridges in end of pipe and I will make a special tool to tighten and un thread in future.

It's a beesh to get out!

Ha piston and cylinder look great! But still gonna put new piston and rings in.

Oops!

How come every bike you have sheds all it's leaves every winter??

Yeah, how come?

1. Me nuts

2. I get bored over the long winter

No, I like to go through everything and clean it up and give everything a good greasing, anti seize stuff, etc...

My voltage regulator bracket snapped off. So, want to flip frame over and tig weld on a new bracket.

Guess rest you will see later on.........to boldly go where no man has gone.......

Whatever reason(s),all good!!

Look forward to following along as you massage it into that magic '3 stroke' category you are shooting for. Good lineal pull from bottom up and with a flick of the clutch, ripper...

Ooops you did it again. All eyes watching.

So Darty, if you're really bored and feeling generous, I could use some help getting my 300 running properly again. I'm running out of ideas. Rebuilt carb, checked all the electrical specs and all test good. I ordered a replacement stator just incase. Reeds are next? It'll idle but has no bottom end and then OMG when it gets on the pipe.

I think I know where issue is? Sure sounds like your powervalve is stuck open.
If it is stuck open. The signs are no bottom end, because the powervalve is open or some how advancing fast. Once engine catches up to it being fully opened. It will scream.

Might as well pull your reeds to make sure those are seating good, not warped or chipped.

Several things can make powervalve stick. Oily spooge, bolt loose, overload spring broke, carbon, centrifugal timer? There are 3 types: Electric, centrifugal, cable, and Hillbilly Honda ones, where they wired them all way open, instead of buying the friggin parts. We won't count the hillbilly one.

So I'll pm you my number and call me. Tell you how to test it.

Thanx! As Capin Kirk says: I've got a plan.....

Funny! I think your gonna like it. I got it in my head and now just need to make it happen.

Walt? Your opinion?

Ok, seems like I can go 3 pistons......

Stock two ringer dinger?

Accessory piston, that is performance with a Paula Deen, special cook ware, non stick coating with one ring? Says it's fast in the accessory catalog! Sure you got to replace the one ring more frequent though? Paula says to assemble it with 3 sticks butter!

Wiseco two ringer singer?

So thought I get Mr Huskenstein opinion?

Look Paula got Husky blue and Ktm orange cookware! Don't tell me Mrs! Then that's pots, pans, glasses, silverware, place mats, coffee mugs, canisters,cook utensils, etc... Heck that be more than darn piston $$$$.

My 2 cents...
We ran the CR Wiseco in the WR.

Single ring, but liked the oil ports on the exhaust side. This pic is from a coolant leak overheat that could have been a lot worse in my opinion without the extra lube. Not sure what your 3 options provide...

you're wild