TE/TC 17 TE 150

Sons FC 250 head and rear spring done for his bike.

Swing arm all cleaned up.

Tried Oven cleaner and kinda left it dull.

Think Works toilet bowl cleaner leaves it shinier.

Even tried some stuff used semi truck aluminum wheels.

Follow up later with automotive Scotch Brite pad and Wd40. Puts the final touches on it.

Toilet bowl cleaner it is then. I just put my bike on the handy-lift.

AAAAHHHH SHINEY! Glad you're pulling some blue in to counter the yellow.

I turned my 2008 KTM 200 XCW into a TE200 with blue plastics, graphics kit, and rim strips. My avatar is a picture of it. I tried to post a bigger picture but can't figure out how to post pictures.
Oh. how about "upload a File"?

I was wondering what you did about your spring rates? I'm notice a lot of fork dive under heavy braking and even not so heavy braking that's messing up overall balance of bike. Its not far off for me at 155pounds so don't want mess it up just would like to stay little higher in stroke a little longer. I'm almost topped out on compression run around 5clicks. Thought about trying bump up my oil first see where I'm at before I change spring rate.

I'm with you on that. If yours is diving like mine, but under your weight.

Think manuals says 4 wt fork oil.

I was thinking 5 wt, but might think about 7 wt.

I'd try oil and oil height first. Oil is cheap. I think the fork on compression needs slowed down some?

Then you could get a set 44 springs and use one with the 42. That give you a slight bump up (43)to try, then you could try the 44's down road????????

In the overall mix. There is yellow, blue, white, silver,black, polished stuff, and anodized blue (But not overkill).

This be the same yellow I am doing my 83 milk truck frame in, down road.

But think you get the jist.

I always thought(n was told on one occasion by sum1) that the spring tails/ends should always touch the rest of the spring coils?

I might go 5wt but 7 may be little much for me. I think may resolve most my problem by bump up my volume some. Do you know the stock oil height in forks and any luck on xplorer manual?If not I can dump and measure just can be messy. Plus if I know my starting volume and add 10cc+ I will know my stock setting. Reason I ask is I have not received my owners manual yet. It was on back order and still don't have manual.

No luck on Xplor manual yet.

I will get you the oil height.

If you try 5wt. Let us know your results, same on height.

Stock oil height is 110mm. Mine were right at that. I changed mine over to 7wt, 46 springs and left the oil height alone. My riding weight is bit more than all yours. I am at 245#'s with my 20 lb pack and all my gear. My pack needs to go on a diet....maybe I do too?! I won't get any real ride time on the bike until after the first of the year.

Walt,

Did you do them yourself? Looks like you did?

Did you take top caps off and had to remove the clickers? Or did you just unscrew top and slid tube down to get to springs?

Did you take out bottom with big hex Allen? If so what did you torque it at?

Why I ask is that I've broken stuff in past and had heck of time gettin parts.

Kinda want to remove much as possible to clean good before new oil, for amount of hours I have on them.

I keep track of everything I do on paper so I will post sometime next week changes/results ect..Plan on going SC this weekend for local race and staying there til Tues. to try few things on the 150 plus my buddy just got 350fx we gonna dial it in a little too.

Here is link for 2016 KTM 150 sx repair manual.

You can download it and quite bit will cross over.

Good info in here to check powervalve and piston distances, etc....

http://kristofsx.com

I did it myself. I only have 6 hours of ride time on the bike so everything was very clean inside. I just unscrewed the top cap and slid the outer tube down. I then compressed the spring until I could get my box end wrench on the nut at the top of the spring guide. Removed the top cap and pulled the spring and measured oil height. It was right at 110mm. I drained the oil, partially filled with the new oil and worked it in and then drained again. Saved all the oil and it came out completely clean with no suspended particulate or discoloration at all. I was surprised.

Refilled the forks with new oil to 110mm working it in as I went. Re-installed in reverse order. Rebound fork took ~16 oz. and compression fork took ~20 oz.

The compression side has no low speed dampening in the first half of the travel. The Rebound fork provides some dampening for low speed compression early in the stroke from what I was feeling. Once assembled with the 46 springs and combined with the 44 on the rear the bike feels pretty well balanced with a fat ass bouncing up and down on it. I am in a ways on both rebound and compression on the rear. I had both cranked in a ways and the pre load maxed out on the forks prior to this. I initially have set the forks to 15 out for both and backed off the pre-load completely. Feels good but I won't know didley until I ride it somewhere gnarly.

RK Tec is cutting my head insert right now. I am excited to try their design. I have followed their work on snowmobiles for quite a while now and there is very good documentation on their design and results. Having a head with a combustion chamber insert seemed like the perfect time to get them to build a head for me. I will get it back and report on my results. They would be interested in building a billet water jacket/outside head for their insert if enough people are interested.

I can't wait to get it back and ride with it.

Walt,

Thanx on great info and also news!

Anyone have problems with starter? Mine died and waiting for a replacement. Once in a while it would have trouble turning over motor since new thought it was just battery issue but battery always checked out good.

So was using my thinker last night. Prob thinker too too much.
So with a split fork design, that's not a bad concept compared to the other forks.

So we could split fork oil if we have to? Meaning, if compression needs slowed down. Then we just up the fork oil wt.
If we do both forks with same wt and we feel the rebound is too slow, and we can't clicker it back, fast enough?
Guy could dump the oil on that fork and go with a lower wt?

Got nice set of lower fork protectors coming that go with new color scheme. They are not going to fit on my existing mounts. So I'm going to have to fabricate an aluminum adapter. The Joy of piddling!

I did some measuring last night and my powervalve factory setting, is levit.

I'm still playing with colors, but think old Yeller gonna come out pretty sharp!