1972 450 engine questions

The first one I tuned was 6 hrs of back and forth, this one only 1hr. so I'm learning fast. It helps to have the .0005 dials. When I do the next I'll do some before and after vids, now that I know how to post them. Took me longer to figure that out than the tuning, sheesh.

I finally got the main cases together, both the crank and output shaft spin freely. Can anyone tell me the thickness of a new clutch pack? The book gives the minimum at 28mm, mine is at 30.5mm. How close to done is mine? Also my basket has been welded and is not very true, in fact, it wobbles and has a small chip out of a tooth. the basket spins freely. Is it supposed to be tight on the bushing? The bushing is tight in the bearing. The book shows the basket being installed on the bushing with the masher. Is my bushing played out also? WTF (waiting to fiddle)!

More questions about this pile. The book says the clutch pack should have 2 steel plates on the outsides and 4 aluminum in between. I have 1 aluminum and 5 steel plates. also there are washers between the springs and locking plates...mine look like 1/4" lock washers is that correct. and finally what's with the clutch milling the inside of the clutch cover, mine is almost letting air in!!

I don't know for a fact what a new clutch stack measures but I would venture to say in the low 30's (mm). I can't see the stack being much thicker and being able to fit on the hub. Your current stack height of 30.5mm is good.

Sounds like your clutch basket is toast. Seeing the bushing fits tight in the bearing I'd say the basket race is worn and the bushing is ok, which is strange seeing the basket spins with the bushing and not independent of it.

Sounds like the previous owner used all steel plates when the need came to replace the aluminum ones. Honestly I can say what harm the steel plates would create. You may want to consult LeFevre just to make sure.

The stock washers under the lock plates are flat. I can see where someone probably thought the lock washers would be an improvement to keep the nuts from backing off. If they were I would think the HVA engineers would have included them in the design.

The milling inside the clutch cover is not uncommon although yours sounds like it went pretty far. This happens if the nut that holds the hub on backs off.

Make sure that when you assemble your new clutch, you're going to need one, that the hub and the basket spin free of one another. Sometimes the narrow washer between the hub and basket gets left out.

The six speed trans with the updated shifting drum looks great. This is a huge upgrade for the ML and MK motors.

Thanks Crash. After looking at the book, on the large clutch it says five friction disk and 6 steel disks. so I'm not that concerned with that, I wonder how the nuts could back off if the plates are made to be bent to lock them into position, and yes the trans shifts very nicely on the bench. Thanks for the help with that. I'd be interested in knowing how to use that system on a 5 speed. Hall's has a new clutch basket and I'm looking for a second job to pay for it!! I will take a much closer look at the way that system works an the bushing, one side of that thing has to spin freely. If the basket is tight on it, then that bearing is in constant motion with the engine running. So either the basket (steel) is worn out or the bushing (bronze ) is, unfortunately the cases are together so it's not looking so good for me. I'm gonna have a drink!

If the locking plates are in good condition the nuts won't back off making the lock washers unnecessary but still need the flat washers.

If the bushing had to be pressed into the case bearing then its ok, no need to replace it.

Buy a used basket off ebay. Heres a nice one off a 75 400 for 38 bucks, hopefully you won't need to get a second job for this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-HUSQVA...m35b6fa9383:m:mO3QtDMKY8ZWyoGj-qBgeNQ&vxp=mtr

Theres also one off a 72 450 that looks ok for a little less than the 75.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-HUSQVA...ash=item4d50d06e96:g:roYAAOSw44BYUDrC&vxp=mtr

I saw the first one, I have bought from them before. I think I'll just spring for the new one and all the plates, steel and friction from Halls, it's only 125$ for all. Then I know it will last my lifetime! I ride but not too hard, I have to go to work and that will hurt if I over do it. What about springs I didn't see any service numbers on them. What is the length on a new one, I guess as long as they hold the clutch pack closed and there is good tension on the clutch cable I should be ok. But I would rather have a new set of springs. I'm gonna check around, no work today getting some snow.

Got to the shop, snows not too bad. While mocking the clutch up.....
View: https://youtu.be/iD_hukxRlNs

Here's pics of the crappy parts.. Ordered these parts from Hall's.

Good thing I didn't by the basket from Halls last night, it was actually the hub for 73$ that basket is 300+$ that would have surprised my bank account. Crash I bought the 400 Basket you linked thanks. I did buy the steel and friction plates with a center gasket from Halls, the aluminum one goes on the top against the pressure plate. I'll disassemble the cases on Sunday and see what I missed, I don't remember putting a washer between the clutch bushing and the main shaft. So I'll get another chance to examine the clutch bushing. Also I got a new job.... shoveling snow! And the beat goes on!!

send some down here...100 degrees+ yesterday, 98 today, 102 tomorrow

Got an email from Halls, seems they don't have the plates or gasket that are listed as in stock.. but they do have aftermarket Barrnet Plates for twice as much, I just bought them. The center case gasket was listed at 1.99, but the only one they had was a aftermarket 11$ one. If you saw the video you know I'll need it. At least he threw in the clutch shaft support washer I failed to install. surprise I can't send you the snow but I can advise on tasty cold adult beverage... Pull cork, chug, chase with vodka on ice. When you wake up it should be winter.

Well, I disassembled the cases again, and there was no washer between the main shaft and the clutch bushing. Hence 1mm lateral play when declutching. Parts are shipped from Halls and ebay dealer. Also found a clutch cover without the side milled out for best offer 40$. It also has the undamaged raised lettering and size window. So that's good! I was looking for a case separator and they cost too much so I made a reasonable facsimile. Now all things being constant ( the pain will be delivered), and the motor being almost done ( the pain will be delivered). Should I be using a sealant on the gasket for case assembly? Also are there ss spoke and nuts available for these wheels? And This set of forks has black lower tubes with raised ribs front and rear, what are they from? I'll take a better pic tomorrow. Also the stripped thread syndrome!

ive always had good luck coating both sides of the case gaskets with grease, especially the clutch cover. the gasket seals fine afterward and is now reusable.
im a big fan of bel ray waterproof grease. use it on everything! in tubs and cartridges for grease guns, lol.

OK so there are 4 stripped threads on the engine, the 6mm front and lower front on the center cases. A good reason to re-disassemble the cases, and the 6mm on the cylinder for the head bolts. The 6mm holes for the case were drilled 5/16 and threaded 3/8 for the 6mm ss insert. The cylinder was drilled with a X size drill bit and tapped to 10.1 75mm to receive the 8mm insert, the cylinder holes were too big for the smaller inserts so 8mm it is!

Pics of the fork less, anybody seen these before they don't look like the right ones.

Buchanan's is the best source for the stainless spokes https://www.buchananspokes.com/

I am now in the habit of only using gasket sealer only on one gasket ace so that if you to open the case because you found a part on the bench or whatever, you can reuse the gasket

Thanks jimspac, I will try that method since I have priors with respect to disassembly after assembly. I'll also check out Buchanans. I've never respoked a wheel but am willing to try one. I'll probably buy a cheap replacement and try on that first so when I screw it up I won't be too mad at myself.